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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 12:05 PM
  #16  
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Ok so by doing a 390 crank and rods will 360 pistons fit on 390 rods? And with the crank is there anything else I have to do to put the 390 crank in or is it just a direct fit?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 12:09 PM
  #17  
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Someone with more expertise than me will chime in. I believe your 360 pistons will work, but they will raise the compression. The crank is a direct fit.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 12:13 PM
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Ah I see well good deal I appreciate the help so far. Is there anything you would suggest with those cylinder walls I’d running the dinggle berry will work? Or if there are any other things I need to check for?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 01:50 PM
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I also noticed it looks like part of the casting Brock in the top of the picture. Any one else seen this? That mean the block is trashed?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by williams242
Is there anything you would suggest with those cylinder walls I’d running the dinggle berry will work? Or if there are any other things I need to check for?
Look for deep scratches that might still be felt with a fingernail after honing, don't want that. The hone just knocks off the cylinder glazing, so the new rings have a chance to seat. There isn't going to be a lot of material removed.

Still.. cylinders don't look great .. Even then, while it might not be perfect seal it should run a hell of a lot better with fresh rings. Check cylinder taper, if it's not too bad it should work OK.

Millions of engines were repaired this way over the years. Polish the crank, new bearings, maybe lap the valves & fresh valve springs...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 03:43 PM
  #21  
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Ok did you happen to see the above picture looking what I would call the valley. There is a couple holes that look like they may have chipped?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 04:11 PM
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I'm on a smartphone, it's tough to see. You'll have to use your judgment though, maybe see what a machinist sez.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 04:26 PM
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Ok I appreciate it
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:36 PM
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can you run an rv cam on stock lifters and push rods?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:46 PM
  #25  
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Honing isn’t going to take those lines out. If you scrape the carbon away at the top you’ll most likely feel a ridge the way they look. I’ve seen valleys look like that doesn’t hurt anything.

If you get a a 390 rotating assembly make sure you get car pistons not truck pistons unless you want them down in the hole like your 360. You can use rv cam with stock type stuff they’re not that special.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:59 PM
  #26  
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Yes i do feel a slight ridge at the tops of the cylinders.. so by you say that it wouldd be best to take it and get those machined out?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 09:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by williams242

I also noticed it looks like part of the casting Brock in the top of the picture. Any one else seen this? That mean the block is trashed?
I was told it was just poor casting. Shouldn't hurt anything a lot of valleys look like that. But of course I'm a stranger on the internet who heard it from a guy that works on dentsides.... take it with a grain of salt lol YMMV
 
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 08:37 AM
  #28  
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For the cylinders: You need to either borrow a set of bore gauges or find someone who can measure them for you. Need to measure not just for diameter but concentricity top to bottom. Once you are armed with the data for each cylinder, it can be compared to the limit specifications for the engine then you can move forward with a plan. The measurements will dictate how you proceed and possibly save you from wasting money. Sure you can guess and I've done that when I didn't know any better and there were no forums or internet to look stuff up but there is no need to do that now.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 10:20 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by caravaggio2000
You have a 360 then. Since you have it all apart I'd consider converting it to a 390 by putting in a 390 crank and rods.
If you go that route by sourcing a Scat reciprocating assembly, you could go much further (4.25" stroke) and have 445+ CID. However, you should have your machinist look at everything and report back to you before making any decisions. He'll tell you whether the crank can be turned down or not, what the bore is and whether it can be enlarged (0.060" is the practical max for an FE). Finally, have him check the block (sonic, magnaflux, etc.) for any cracks or other faults. These data points will support your decisions on how to proceed.
 
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