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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #1  
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Knocking ? w/video

This is a 1983 Ford F150 w/4.9 there is an obvious knock that has started. I have been working out the kinks and I was trying to find some suggestions on what could be causing this. I only hear it at idle but I am half deaf. Sorry in advance as the quality is not to good but I was using my phone. Thanks.

YouTube - Knocking engine ?
 

Last edited by MartyRayII; Feb 15, 2011 at 12:24 AM. Reason: wrong link
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Sounds a little low pitched to be on the upper end (valve train, lifters, etc.)
I've been dealing with a knock in mine and trying to diagnose it, so I'll list the possibilities I've come across.

Exhaust leak. A hole or opening in the exhaust (manifold gasket, cracked manifold, etc) is causing a loud sound since the noise comes out of the hole before reaching the muffler.

Rod bearings or main bearings are worn, causing slop in the up and down motion of the pistons. If this is the case, you want to address it immediately by dropping the oil pan and checking/replacing them. If not, the slop (and noise) will amplify exponentially until it seizes or fails.

Wrist pin worn. The pin that holds the piston head onto the rod is worn, causing the piston head to knock up and down.

Piston slap. One or more (just sounds like one from the video) of the cylinders is out of round, causing the piston to wobble around as it moves up and down. You'll need to re-bore the cylinder(s) and get a new piston(s).

Another option is a bolt in the flywheel has come loose and is smacking every time it spins around.


Best of luck. Knocks aren't a fun thing to deal with or find. Hopefully yours is something simple and quick.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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check the reed valve between the air pump and intake below the carb. that sounds like an exhaust leak
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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I do have an exhaust leak but the knock is there too. I have located it to the bottom front half of the engine with a homemade stethoscope.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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might be timing gears, I have steel gears on my 82, and it sounds like it;s going to come apart
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 02:19 PM
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How could you check that? If it is how worried should I be?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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some disassembly required. does it hold good oil pressure?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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Yep as far as the gauge on the truck anyways its a little above mid way. Although keeping in mind your earlier post I went back out and checked it with the stethoscope again right at the harmonic balancer and as I slid back towards the 2 or 3 piston it was considerably louder. Am I correct at thinking that the timing chain is right up front? I am just winging it here really I can fix a lot of external crap but inside I am unexperienced. I really really need to get this taken care of if it is serious I can't afford another motor for sure. Or a rebuild just yet.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 04:59 PM
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The 300 is a direct gear to gear (no chain). If there's a problem with the timing gears, its because teeth broke or chipped.

However, if its getting louder as you move back, it is probably coming from the block.

If it is in the block, you'll need to disconnect the motor mounts, jack up the engine and remove the oil pan to diagnose further. From there, you can inspect the bearings, look for play in the rods, pistons, etc.



Maybe before you get that far, take it to a professional mechanic and ask him for a few moments of his time. They've probably heard all the sounds before, and can use a bit higher quality stethoscopes to pinpoint where the sound is coming from.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Kill the cylinders one at a time by pulling the spark plug wire then listening with the scope to the sound change. Have the motor off when you do the actual wire disconnect/reconnect. Wrist pin/piston slap/rod bearing noise goes away when you take combustion pressure off a cylinder.

Be quick about this test if your truck has a cat. If it doesn't then take your time. Dumping lots of unburned fuel in the exhaust will damage a cat after a minute or so.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 91Bronc300
Kill the cylinders one at a time by pulling the spark plug wire then listening with the scope to the sound change. Have the motor off when you do the actual wire disconnect/reconnect. Wrist pin/piston slap/rod bearing noise goes away when you take combustion pressure off a cylinder.

Be quick about this test if your truck has a cat. If it doesn't then take your time. Dumping lots of unburned fuel in the exhaust will damage a cat after a minute or so.
Thanks a bunch will try this tomorrow and if it is one of these three I will bite the bullet and pull the pan. Got to figure this one out. Thanks everyone.
 
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