I use Zerex ELC or Fleetguard ELC in the trucks I have used the aluminum radiators in. No need to flush it yearly either as long as you start with a flushed clean system.

 

When I 1st got my early Bronco, my race car buddy asked if I run Asian antifreeze. I was like WTH? I looked and sure enough its blue and NOT the standard green. I did more research about aluminium radiators and what to run in them and have read that it (Asian Blue) is better for aluminium radiators. Who knows? My radiator takes a beating, and has one elec fan and the rig is in slow mo all the time, and never no problems. And NO anode/sacrificial diode cap.

"Detailed Description on the blue stuff.
Coolant/Antifreeze; Prediluted; ZEREX Asian Vehicle ready to use antifreeze coolant is specifically formulated to meet the requirements of Asian vehicle manufacturers (Honda, Nissan, KIA, Hyundai and others) requiring a blue, silicate free Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) with a phosphate additive. This patented formula is designed to replace the original fluid and provides protection from rust, corrosion, boil overs and freezing. 5 year/150,000 mile guarantee. Silicate-free, long-life, phosphate Hybrid Organic Acid Technology chemistry. Formulated to replace the OEM fluid in Asian make vehicles such as Honda, Honda, Nissan, KIA, Hyundai and others requiring a blue, silicate free HOAT antifreeze coolant. Premixed with demineralized water for added protection and convenience. No mixing required. Meets the following OEM and industry specifications: Hyundai/KIA MS 591-08, Mitsubishi ES-64217, JIS K 2234-1994, Ford WSS-M97B55-A, ASTM 3306, ASTM D4985, Federal Specification A-A-870A"

Maybe blue Zerex due to aluminium radiators used in Honda, Nissan, KIA, Hyundai? Asian red for ? I get my Zerex from O'Reilly's. And X2 on ck that you have some sort of rubber mounts to absorb vibration.

 

No, not worthless. But it's a fair point. Grounding to the radiator itself, or the mounts would make it more likely that the radiator fluid would be exposed to current. The current coming through the ground is going to flow to the biggest more conductive chunk of metal in the truck. Since the radiator is aluminum, it won't flow to it. But it will flow through it to get elsewhere.
Grounding to it, or closer to it just makes it more likely to occur. Neither is a guarantee either way.

 

I don't understand this perfectly, but I think there are actually two different issues going on here.

Dissimilar metal or Galvanic corrosion is one, I'm not persuaded grounding has anything to do with remedying this, though I'm not certain. Stray voltage on the other hand, is actually what I think some are referring to here and good grounds are definitely the cure. During cranking an engine starter will draw 100, 200 amps, or even more, depending on engine size. Loose, corroded or missing grounds can cause big problems as the starter will always draw the current it needs wherever it can, through components never designed to carry juice. We've all read stories of red hot brake lines or throttle cables etc. Internal radiator damage is also possible I'm sure..

 

I replaced my Radiator in January with a 3 Row Copper from Radiator Express which I highly recommend.
I didn't like the Summit stuff so I figured if the original lasted 42 years I'd stay as close to that as I could!

 

Good info here, yes that is how you test. The main thing is make sure spark plug wires aren't near heater hoses or thermostat, make sure that everything is well grounded, especially the radiator support. A sacrificial anode shouldn't be needed but that is an option.

 

I wanted to have a few links here, but it appears that some of the radiator caps offered by Performance Improvements have been discontinued by the website.

Here's one sacrificial anode cap that I had considered buying, but then again, you can always simply make your own with some stainless steel wire + some leftover Zinc anode rod from when you change out your water heater anode rod. Same thing, cheaper price.

https://performanceimprovements.com/products/NRZ17700

I am running the Zerex G05 coolant in my 79 and am quite happy with it. I haven't tested for voltage between positive and the coolant yet, but it's on my list of things to do. I also want to put a bunch of rubber washers from Home Depot between the radiator at the front clip to prevent vibration issues.

 

Thanks guys. There is some great info there. I had to mod the bulkhead to mount the Summit rad., so I stayed with that make and size. I just couldn't buy the type with the plastic tanks. I want to do everything possible to extend the life of this rad, so I guess I won't be putting the cheapest AutoZone coolant in this one! I'll also move the fan ground, and add a bit of padding to the mounts, not only to cushion against vibration, but to isolate against metal to metal contact and current transference.



I thought about trying to fix the leaks with either soldier or JB weld thinned down with denatured alcohol, but decided that if it were leaking in one area, other areas may soon begin leaking as well.

How do I flush the block to remove all the old coolant??

Aaron: Thanks for the info and the link. I have that exact anode cap. Of course I wasn't using it. Man!

 

I'm not familiar with your engine, but I'd imagine there to be one, or two, coolant drain plugs in the block.

Draining a block of coolant is a nasty messy job.

If you drain it and decide you want to do a proper (thorough) drain once a year, or whenever, consider an EZ or Fumoto drain plug(s).

If your leaking radiator is still in the truck, try the voltage reading prior to the replacement project.

There's also a PH test , apparently, using pool strips.

I tried it, but the strips showed a meaningless colour, and I didn't try again.

 

Vibration is also an important factor wherever things are welded together, especially on a 40+ year old truck. The radiator core support structure rests on two mounting bushings that attach to the frame. Those bushings tend to be in rather bad shape after all that time and all those miles. The bolt that secures them is often almost impossible to loosen. The radiator is usually bolted directly to the core support.
Something to look into.

 

I,m going to fab a nice cushy foam seat, and make sure there is no metal to metal contact. I,m also going to use the zerex Asian fluid, along with the anode cap. I will not be able to flush block too well.