I've had three aluminum cross-flow radiators from Summit. All three lasted 2-3 years before they started leaking at nearly every point where the tubes meet the tanks. Sure, they might warranty your part, but is it worth it to go through the hassle when you know it is going to fail?

I should have kept the old school copper and brass one I had. If I can't one to recore in the J/y, I'll probably go with the cheapo Spectra one.

 

hmm if it's just that joint I wonder if you could seal it back up with some Alumaweld rods and a torch

 

You sure you don't have an electrolysis problem? That's a lot what that sounds like. And before u say the copper one never did that...aluminum is more susceptible.

I used to work at a radiator shop that sold Northern radiators, which is what those are. They weren't show quality but well built.

 

Hivoltj...could you expand slightly on the electrolysis issue? I recall seeing somewhere, the suggestion to use a sacrificial anode in an aluminum radiator, but I can’t recall under what conditions. I’m about to put one in a vehicle that has a brass/copper heater core. Does that make a difference?

 

A thermostat that opens too suddenly can cause pressure spikes. Also of course running too hot.

 

Don't trust me on this, and verify it through other sources - but I think that simply grounding every metal component which carries coolant can lessen the (galvanic?) corrosion.

 

Huh, I used a radiator cap with the sacrificial bob hanging from it. Maybe I should put that back in?

 

Well, I guess I do need a bit of help. I'm leery of the Spectra rads with plastic tanks. When I installed this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-381331/overview/ I modded the bulkhead so I'm sort of stuck with that rad. I've had 3 of them now. The first two Summit warranted, even after two years had passed! Now, however, they give a hard-nosed attitude. I guess I will get another and put the sacrificial diode cap back in, and hope for the best. Is there something else I can do to help longevity?

They begin to leak every time in the same spot, just below the inlet, where the tubes meet the tank. Of course that is where the rad. experiences the most heat.

 

Thanks. How do I ck to see if there is an electrolysis problem? And if there is, how do I rectify it?

 

Get a Volt meter. But the negative lead on your negative battery terminal, and put the red on into the radiator fluid without touching the filler neck. If you get 1/10th of a volt or more, you have electrolysis.

If anything is grounded to your radiator, or the supports. Move it to another spot.

 

I agree with the above, but would add that it's 0.1 volts instead of 1/10th. Technically speaking, they're the same number but I hate imperial so I feel the need to comment on it.

The second link below states more than 0.3 volts, but I disagree with that statement.... If you've got ANY voltage between the negative and the rad fluid, you've got electrolysis... Electrolysis is the passing of a current between 2 things; the specific value matters, but even 0.01 volts could be considered electrolysis by definition.

Some of the things I read before purchasing and installing an aluminum radiator in my F250.
The second link answers a lot of your questions, but is a very long read. However, it's worth it. Given that the tubes keep breaking in the same spot, I would assume vibrations over bad antifreeze unless of course you've had the same antifreeze for 5+ years and continue to use it.

https://www.cgj.com/2013/06/27/alumi...-great-debate/
Aluminium Radiators - Galvanic and Electrolytic Corrosion

 

Are these fully welded aluminum radiators? Like the Champion? Or two these have plastic tanks? If your issues are with leaks in the aluminum you most likely have an issue with electrolysis which can also be caused by the incorrect coolant.

 

Thanks, gashog. And do you have any knowledge about the 'correct' coolant? That would help too. Thanks. And oh, all three rads have been the fully welded aluminum ones as shown in the link.

Also, about moving the grounds: I have an msd box and a 130 amp alt grounded to the frame. The bulkhead that the rad. fan is grounded to is bolted to the frame. So, does it not seem useless to move the ground when every ground is bolted to another?

 

I put together a new exhaust system with a 2.5" in 2.5" out Flowmaster 50. I have two 2.5" header collectors that go into a 2.5" to 3" Y, and into a 4' section of 3" tube. Then it drops to 2.5" into the FM, with a 2.5" tailpipe. After driving it about 10 short around town trips, I have a terrible rattle inside the muffler. It sounds as though someone dropped a bolt in there.

Is that a baffle that's come loose?

 

For longevity, rubber mount the radiator, change the 'good quality' coolant every year, and drain the block too, not just the radiator.

If the truck is not regularly driven, I'd change it more often than that.

Testing the coolant with a multi meter is a nice visual way of seeing if things are acceptable, but, adding a copper pipe to the positive lead, provides an interesting reading.

0.1v is the guideline for just the positive lead, and 0.3v is the guideline when using copper.

The color of the coolant reflects its health. If it's green initially, say, the green will fade as the coolant chemicals lose their mojo.

I'm not familiar with USA coolants, but if you google Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT), Organic Acid Technology (OAT), and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) types, it should help you find exactly what you want.

I fitted a Champion radiator in Feb 2016, read up about what's required for the 'modern upgrade', and as at today, it's still as good as new as far as I can tell.

I don't have a sacrificial anode fitted, but I like the idea of one as I think it's cheap insurance.