Radiator isnt pluged it flows free thermostat is as low as stant makes 165 i believe so aluminum radiator is next on the list but $$ isnt in the budget so right now i have a few options



Current fan

Other fan

Possible idea

 

If you are missing a fan shroud this will make the fan work WAY less effectively, so that would be the first thing, fabricate up a shroud out of cardboard maybe or something.

Also how new is your coolant? Old as the hills coolant just isn't going to absorb heat, so check that next too.

And then, double check if your temp really is hot. Grab a $30 infrared thermometer from Harbor Freight, warm up the engine where you think it's getting too warm, and hit the thermostat housing to see what it's really running at.

 

A temp shroud isnt a bad idea but even running a 220 thermostat and block heater i barely get defrost in the winter

Coolant was changed in December

It will pass the word normal on the guage and blow hot hot hot air after 30-40 miles on the highway at 65 mph infrared testing again isnt a bad idea i did that a couple years ago and it wasn't as bad as it is now on the guage i only get maybe 7k miles a year on it and have replaced everything under the hood besides the cooling system motor first and it has 45k since rebuild

 

All three of those fans are completely wrong. Don't use any type of flexible fan. You need a radiator shroud and the correct fan, you can also use a fan off a 360/390.

 

Drive it off a cliff that's a quick fix, won't have to worry about it heating. Head gasket and bad radiator cap are a few more things to check if you want to diagnose it.

 

I first thought your truck was running hot, now it seems it won't warm up? Which is it?

Dennis

 

How do you know the radiator is not plugged, did you have it flow tested?
It sounds like you have a few different things going on, factory gauge reading high and no heat.

You first need to check if it is indeed running hot and what that number is maybe using an after market gauge for testing.
Yes a shroud will help but did the truck come from the factory with one? If not then you should not have an issue now.
Do you have a spring in the lower radiator hose?

Get the motor up to temp feeling the heater hoses in & out, are they both the same temp? Not turn the heater fan on high and feel the hoses still the same temp?
If so the heater core could be plugged.
Then shut down unless you can feel across the front of the radiator. Now feel across the radiator you should feel the same temp across the whole thing.
If not the radiator is plugged.

If all that checks out good then there could be mud in the block. This mud sits in the bottom of the block and builds up to the point the coolant will not get to the areas of the motor it needs to to pull the heat away to the radiator.
This mud cam be packed in so hard even flushing will not remove it.
I have a motor that is like this and like you every thing has been replaced. A should did help, this car never came with one.
A sign of this is when I got the car the cooling system was mud. Casting plug (freeze plugs) start rusting out and when pulled you can see the mud.
Only way to fix this is to hot tank the block but with 65K I cant see rebuilding it just yet so it sits.
Dave ----

 

Be sure the thermostat is opening fully at the designated temperature. Check it in a pot on the stove with a known good thermometer.

 

wouldn't a 220deg stat be a little warm for these motors???? 180, 185 maybe

 

195° F is standard OEM, that's what belongs there. Thermostat sets the lowest average temperature, not the highest, so consequently a colder rating will not really help prevent overheating. It might slow it down a few minutes at best. Increased wear and sludge as well.

 

I'm my opinion, I wouldn't really on the factory gauge. Put in an aftermarket one.
Next:get the correct fan, shroud, and thermostat.
While you've got coolant down for the thermostat, drain the system.
Flush the heck out of the system. Use the products designed for that.
Replace your heater core, that thing should cook you out, not barely put out heat. Just replace it after the coolant flush so any junk doesn't plug it.
Replace any old hoses, get a new radiator cap.
Other than if its a plugged radiator or a lousy water pump, that should solve your problems.

 

This thread is a dumpster fire, OP never described the actual problem accurately and i havent seen him back around.

 

I'm certain someone wrote that.

Just another "running hot with no real proof" thread, or not.

 

Had similar issues. I replaced every piece of my cooling system. New radiator, new shroud, new solid core fan, new radiator hoses, new water pump, new heater core, new heater hoses, new 165 thermostat, new freeze plugs The 302 had been run on straight water and was full of rust. Before I replaced anything I ran Oxilic acid through the system to help dissolve any rust in the water jackets. Once the acid treatment was done I used a neutraliser "baking soda" and then disposed of the acid correctly. After that I flushed the system and pulled and replaced all of the above parts. I filled the system with about a half a gallon of antifreeze to help with rust prevention right away. Test drove it for about two weeks on the farm. Once I was sure I had no leaks and everythung seemed to be working I drained the system and started the flush process. Thus us where I believe some troubleshooting is being done incorrectly. Even after all of the above work, I ran 30 gallons of water through the system to get the remaining rust from the engine water jackets out. Everything is now working great. The parts that made the most for the cheapest were the fan and shroud. The air will take the easiest route to the fan so it goes under and over. Now I can sit at idle and a very good flow of air if being pulled through the radiator. In the first picture that you posted I can see that the pitch of the fan blades has been compromised, did you bend them in that fashion? If so I don't believe that will work. Someone else on the forum may be able to help with correct pitch. I believe it is 15-17 degrees. Double check that data though. Bent that bad it might be better to replace it.