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Had a noise (not vibration) present upon deceleration only when my Ex was lifted 8in or so. Have no idea if the DS were replaced/lengthened, but on jackstands and running gear turning about 50mph, I crawled underneath and gave a listen (ballsy, I know). Saw just how much slop was in the DS and could tell it was coming from the slip yoke. Front end had more slop, but the noise was definitely coming from the rear DS. Cleaning and re-greasing made no difference. Once I lowered the front and rear about 3.5-4in last summer, the noise completely disappeared as the splines on the yokes were able to make better contact.
Results - Vibration Halfway gone but still noticeable.
Second Issue -
Drove in Front wheel drive (Rear Driveshaft removed) full spectrum 0mph thru 85mph, Vibration completely gone.
Had Driveshaft rebuilt - New Flanges, U-joints, balanced.
Results - Vibration Completly Gone.
As for the apparent galling on the carrier, Who Knows. It does not appear to be affecting the performance and I can't feel anything rubbing so I will leave it for now.
Glad that worked out,
I am a bit surprised you needed a 4* shim with a 3.5 lift. Any chance you can post a pic of the rear suspension and driveshaft ? Something seems fishy.
fwiw $300 sounds reasonable for a rebuilt shaft that has new flanges and joints, especially if he built it for “rush” status.
I pay $450 for mine but I use .120 wall cromoly tubing so that adds considerably to the material cost.
Results - Vibration Halfway gone but still noticeable.
Second Issue -
Drove in Front wheel drive (Rear Driveshaft removed) full spectrum 0mph thru 85mph, Vibration completely gone.
Had Driveshaft rebuilt - New Flanges, U-joints, balanced.
Results - Vibration Completly Gone.
As for the apparent galling on the carrier, Who Knows. It does not appear to be affecting the performance and I can't feel anything rubbing so I will leave it for now.
Thanks for following up. I'm suspecting my issue is similar to yours. Which shims did you buy?
I really hate to say, but because it is my daily and he did it overnight, I spent $300.00
I agree with Pirate, for the labor involved that doesn't seem bad at all. In theory it's not a difficult job, but you made the comment on the rust. Pressing rusty u-joints can be a chore. Even torching them takes some time.
Glad that worked out,
I am a bit surprised you needed a 4* shim with a 3.5 lift. Any chance you can post a pic of the rear suspension and driveshaft ? Something seems fishy.
Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
fwiw $300 sounds reasonable for a rebuilt shaft that has new flanges and joints, especially if he built it for “rush” status.
I pay $450 for mine but I use .120 wall cromoly tubing so that adds considerably to the material cost.
I think the $300 was excessive because he removed 2-week old Spicer serviceable U-Joints and replaced them and the OEM flanges with these really chincy looking "Neapco" flanges and U-Joints. Charged me $80 for the flanges and I KNOW I can get the heavy Spicer ones for $50.
When they say things like "this is the worst I have ever seen" and "Who else are you going to get to do it", grab the vasoline.
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