so did it sound ok for no ICP or is it horrible?
You can see my phone on the cowl the camera is thin junk it wasn't that bumpy

 

no comment?
did I **** up or what?

 

I don't really understand your question.

Are you saying the ICP sensor is bad, but still plugged in?

Are you saying you unplugged the ICP sensor so that it defaults to 700 psi (I think)?

Either way, I only had a few moments to watch the first start and the engine sounded rough at idle.

 

yes its unplugged.
Its definatly rough when I first start it.
Thats the second time since I put the injectors in it ran.
With no ICP I guess its rough but it did run at least.

 

It's a good looking truck anyway.

 

FINALLY! got the icp today.
GSP is ridiculous.

Will report back if it solved anything or not.
I got a feeling its gonna be the IPR and/or the HPOP next.

 

Well I put in the ICP.
Pretty much ZERO difference.
Not enough power to back out of its own impression in the dirt.

 

You need some data.
Look at Tugly's signature. He's got a bunch of great diagnostic links.
Reach out to him as well. He's very good at reading the numbers and getting you pointed in the right direction. Way cheaper than throwing parts at it.

 

I guess my next step is to check the fuel pressure

 

wow never knew it'd be so difficult to just check fuel pressure.
glycerine filled wont work with EPDM seals.
Most are EPDM.

So blow $100 on a pressure tester that will work once or blow $100 on a lift pump.
unreal

this thing right here.
durachoice meter glycerine filled, will fail.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-...roduct-reviews

 

#4orb male X 1/8npt female, 18" grease gun hose, 100# oil filled gauge and a 1/8npt female coupling...theres ur fp tester...10 buks.

 

Tim, if you want to rebuild your injectors (I think you do from your posts), make sure you use a brass wheel/brush for cleaning all your metal parts, and MARK THE POSITION OF THE PLUNGERS AND BARRELS before you take them apart. Each plunger and barrel is worn together in a specific pattern (think ballistic forensics), and they are a matched set after wearing together for millions of injection events. You must put the SAME plungers and barrels back in each injector in the SAME orientation that they came out. If you don't, they will leak internally. You can use a small scribe or etcher to mark their position on the tops of each part. Don't intermix the parts from the separate injectors.

I have the same tools form Bitterroot. They work great. I just haven't had time to document working with them, and that YouTube video is excellent (aside from him not marking his plungers and barrels). If I were going to re-use the old parts, I would at least invest in a sonic cleaner for all the nozzles, needles, plungers and barrels (I have). If you don't have money for a decent sonic cleaner, buy new nozzles (as has been mentioned already).

Cartel, great job jumping in there and figuring it out. Reps sent.

I have a fuel pressure gauge I have been using for troubleshooting. I built it from exactly the parts Timmy lists above.

 

Nicmike: I do want to rebuild my injectors. I just have a garden tractor to fix, and a Mercruiser I/O to rebuild first. I can't wait to start taking the fuel system apart and forensically documenting what I find. But I have to do a compression test on it first. When I get into the job, I will ask how the plungers and barrels don't rotate during operation.

timmyboy76 and Nicmike I was at Harbor Freight today and noticed this fuel pressure gauge. Will it work? $19 regular price and then a 20% off coupon is a great price.

https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-i...ter-62623.html

 

It will work till next time you need it by then the seals will be eaten.
I sold the truck to my friend.
He's got money to tow it to a repair shop.

It was nice to meet you all, God Bless