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E4OD - Quick Questions

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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 04:54 PM
  #16  
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Okay, so I can lock it in 1st at 1300 RPM and leave it there through the rest of the gears? That's going to help tremendously with pulling my enclosed trailer up hills.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2019 | 06:43 PM
  #17  
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You can do that without hurting anything. Until the engine is over about 1800 RPM, more or less, you will have more torque to the wheels with it unlocked than locked.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2019 | 07:53 PM
  #18  
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Thank you Mark. Finally getting around to installing my lockup switch, I'm going to add a third pedal to control it.

If I understand correctly, lockup is achieved by grounding a yellow/purple wire in the transmission harness. If I simply splice my switch into this wire without disconnecting it from the computer, will this damage anything? Don't want to fry something by grounding the wire going to the computer when the computer hasn't grounded it.

My reason for this is that I want the TC to revert to normal operation as soon as I release the switch (pedal in my case.)
 
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Old Apr 15, 2019 | 08:18 PM
  #19  
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No, it won't fry anything. It may make the OD OFF light flash and set a code. That may cause harsh shifts until the next time the key is cycled off.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2019 | 08:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
No, it won't fry anything. It may make the OD OFF light flash and set a code. That may cause harsh shifts until the next time the key is cycled off.
Thank you, as always. I will try it tomorrow. From what I've read, some computers are more easily upset than others. Hopefully mine won't notice.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 11:39 AM
  #21  
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One more question, how many amps will be going through this circuit? Want to make sure my switches can handle the load...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 02:21 PM
  #22  
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Okay, went ahead and wired it up with what I had. A couple observations:

- My '94 PCM doesn't seem to care what I do with the TC. I can lock it in 1st and go through the rest of the gears, and it doesn't get upset.

- Mark, does your earlier comment "it should lock in all four forward gears if you are above 3/4 throttle" apply to all E4ODs? Even if I reach redline speed (3600 RPM for the inline 6) in 1st, it still doesn't lock. Maybe it only locks in 1st with the V8s because they rev higher...?

Anyway, the main goal of this modification has been achieved. I can now lock it and overcome the RPM drop before shifting to 2nd. Before, it would shift 1-2 and then lock immediately thereafter, bringing the engine speed too low to produce much torque. This was especially annoying when going up hills with a trailer.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 05:19 PM
  #23  
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You can also use your left foot to ride the brake (not enough to apply brake pressure but just trigger the brake lights) to keep the converter from locking or turn the hazard lights on and this will keep the converter unlocked too.Neither of these methods will trigger the slip code and make the OD light flash.Cutting the line (opening it with a switch) should trigger the code and make the light flash.
I wonder if your PCM is faulty by always commanding the converter to lock in 2nd even if your not buried deep on the skinny and cutting the converter line not tripping and setting the code.....but hey,if it works.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 06:09 PM
  #24  
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Faulty PCM? I wouldn't be surprised. It also sets the check engine light and turns it off randomly before I can check codes.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 09:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 8285
- Mark, does your earlier comment "it should lock in all four forward gears if you are above 3/4 throttle" apply to all E4ODs? Even if I reach redline speed (3600 RPM for the inline 6) in 1st, it still doesn't lock. Maybe it only locks in 1st with the V8s because they rev higher...?.
I thought so, but I can't say I'm 100% sure for one that old. I just don't remember.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 09:55 PM
  #26  
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Okay, I read this earlier: "the lugs in the forward clutch pack on the E4ODs are weak, if it shifts too hard it can break the forward clutches". Have you seen this happen before, and is it something I should be concerned about? I have a stock 300-6 engine and a Transgo Tugger reprogramming kit.

I haven't worried about this in the past, because my converter was never locked during the 1-2 shift. Now that I can lock it in 1st, the 1-2 shift is harder, hence my concerns about breaking something...

I already have the upgraded steel planetary gears and input shaft, but the forward clutch drum has not been upgraded or replaced.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 09:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I thought so, but I can't say I'm 100% sure for one that old. I just don't remember.
Thank you. For anyone else reading this, don't necessarily take my PCM's behavior as a data point. It could very well be malfunctioning...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 10:50 PM
  #28  
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Sorry Mark K.... E40D is JUNK..... Install a ZF5 and no more worries
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 11:10 PM
  #29  
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The E4OD may not be all that great when it's stock. But properly rebuilt and upgraded, it's a good transmission. Plus, my truck has three pedals now so it's even better

I already have a manual without a clutch pedal, and now I have an automatic with a clutch pedal. This is really going to throw me off if I ever get a true standard shift, lol.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2019 | 05:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 8285
Okay, I read this earlier: "the lugs in the forward clutch pack on the E4ODs are weak, if it shifts too hard it can break the forward clutches". Have you seen this happen before, and is it something I should be concerned about? I have a stock 300-6 engine and a Transgo Tugger reprogramming kit.

I haven't worried about this in the past, because my converter was never locked during the 1-2 shift. Now that I can lock it in 1st, the 1-2 shift is harder, hence my concerns about breaking something...

I already have the upgraded steel planetary gears and input shaft, but the forward clutch drum has not been upgraded or replaced.
I've only heard of forward drum/clutch probs in high HP combos, say,700 +. But...
 
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