the CEL is on, if i put those cats on will the cel go away along with the rich smell

 

Pull the codes, autozone or the like will do it free if you don't have a reader. I 1000% guarantee its pissed about the o2 sensors. I hope the former dope didn't cut the connectors and you just need to put in the cats, the o2 sensors, and plug them back in. doing yourself you can get it done for under 600, stealership is gonna no vasoline you for 2k easy.

 

Its throwing P030, P020, I checked the 02 wires and they all seem to ge in place

 

If you meant p0030 that's bank A or pass side pre cat mounted o2 sensor, If you lack cats the ECM is never going to be happy with the ratios between pre and post cat. Fix the cats and go from there.

p0020? that's the pass side VCT actuator solenoid. Front or forward on the head, at the top of the head is this solenoid, its buried under the valve cover. Trace the wires back and unplug and replug the connector. clear the codes and pray it stays away

There is no pxxx its always 4 digits so these are just guesses at what the real codes are

 

The rear O2 sensors behind the cats don't really affect fuel/air ratio unless they've changed the programming, so turning them back on won't do anything. Fixing the P0030 code, which is Bank 1 Sensor 1 so IIRC it is the pre-cat sensor on the driver's side of the truck, will restore your fuel mileage. Not having the cats will impact your mileage around town but does help you at basically any speed above around 45mph.

I suggest replacing that O2 sensor and clearing the codes, to see if your mileage comes back.

Most modern v-engine (V6, V8) vehicles after 1996 have 3-4 O2 sensors. The 'front' sensors are usually somewhere right after the outlet of the exhaust manifold and compare the outgoing exhaust to an expected range, and adjust fuel/air ratio in an attempt to reach said range. The rear O2 sensor(s) (depending on if you have 1 or 2 cats) measure the exhaust coming out of the cat(s) and compare it to the live front sensors - they are checking to see if the cats are reducing emissions as expected. If they don't see a specified range of drop (or error out) then they throw an appropriate code.

I reiterate, the rear O2 sensors do NOT control fuel/air ratio, they ONLY determine if the cats are functioning as they should. Putting them and the cats back in, if the codes for them are turned off (or even if you have them turned back on), will NOT help your mileage in any way.

I had something else here but it was not accurate after reading a bit further.

I used to do this kind of stuff years ago, and turning off the rear O2 sensors properly won't throw a code and won't cause the engine to run rich. I ran a '99 GMC Jimmy with no cat for YEARS with no loss to fuel mileage as just one example.

Before we guess on the other one, please re-check the code and make sure it is p0020. However, this does point to the variable camshaft actuator being messed up - I've never had to deal with one of those so I can't tell you much more about it. HOWEVER, if it isn't functioning properly then it is essentially throwing your timing completely out of whack.

 

I have made a mistake it is throwing


P0420
P0430
P0457
P0455
Also have changed my purge valve and gas cap cant get rid of the gas cap is loose sign

 

WAIT. Hold up.

Is your truck straight piped, or are you just driving around with missing catalytic converters? If you're driving around with missing catalytic converters, then you basically have a MASSIVE exhaust leak, which is leading to basically zero back pressure, in which case yes your mileage is going to be absolutely terrible. I guess my question is, if the converters were stolen, how did you not notice the MUCH louder exhaust?

If your cats have been cut out as in stolen, then that's an insurance claim, and your Comprehensive coverage will pay to have the truck repaired. The shop will put new cats in it and repair the exhaust leak, and your rear O2 sensors will be happy again. If you take it to a Ford garage they'll even use the factory cat system. All you pay is your deductible for what is likely going to be a pretty large bill.

If it's straight piped but the codes just came on, then whatever they were using to dummy out the rear O2 sensors to keep the light off has failed. Since you're getting a code for BOTH cats, however, I don't think this is the case.

As for the vacuum leak, if a new gas cap doesn't fix it and you're always putting the cap on 3-4 or more clicks, then you've got a different issue - you have a big leak in the vacuum system somewhere that you'll likely need a smoke machine to find. It's even possible that, if your cats were stolen, the crooks damaged something in the process that needs to be repaired.

If you get these issues fixed, then your mileage will return.

 

I believe it came from the dealership with 85k miles on it when i bought it already cut, It was already running loud and rich when I bought it, I know i have a vacuum leak somewhere i just haven't taken it anywhere cause i don’t know what they will charge me to figure it out, I just got the truck out the shop due to getting ran off the road so i dont wanna make another claim, i think ill just replace the cats and then take it to a shop to figure out the vaccum leak, is there any common places it leaks from
on these trucks? Also my TMPS sensor is on after all new tires and belle tire has told me 3 times that its in the system they cant fix the light, where is the sensor at or whatever is broken thats inside the truck to fix the light

 

I would not have purchased the truck with 85k on it with missing catalytic converters. That would have been a hard sticking point, either it gets fixed or I don't take it. If you bought it this way then it's on you, insurance isn't going to cover that if you bought it that way.

Diagnosis should be $85-$125 depending on where you go for the vacuum leak, even if they don't fix it. It takes just a few minutes to call and ask a shop what their diagnosis fee is. There are lots of places it can get a leak, with the 'gross leak' code it's something major messed up, you don't get that from a split vacuum hose.

TPMS system is a series of sensors in the wheel wells, that read the sensors in your tires attached to your valve stems. If they didn't put new sensors in when they put new tires on then shame on them. It's actually a pretty robust system and I haven't heard many failures of it. There is a minimum pressure your tires need to be at to keep the system happy, if you aren't running at that pressure then it will set the light. I don't recall what that low point is, probably above 55 lbs?

 

The broken spark plug saga was on the Ford 4.6L/5.4L V-8 and the 6.8L V-10 engines with 3 valve heads, 2007 and earlier. By this time, if you still are driving a 3V engine of that vintage, the spark plugs have been changed to the updated design that doesn’t break on removal.

The 6.2L engine was not involved. Who ever told you that was misinformed, or maybe just an idiot.

 

Thank you for the response ill be attempting to do the spark plugs

 

Ill go get it diagnoaed for the vaccum leak, The TPMS sensors have been replaced but still throwa a code

 

Like I said before be sure to be straight on when removing and replacing the plugs, I used swivel extensions but some use a plug socket that has a swivel built into it. Don't be surprised at how much force it takes to break them loose. Be sure to buy new wires and boots with new resisters.

Denny