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Let me point you to this [LINK} with info on how to use Forscan and Torque. @Tugly has this link and several others in his signature that are helpful with these aging trucks.
I've only used AE and it's been a few years, so I'll defer further help on these apps to folks on this forum who use them regularly. Info on wireless OBD2 adapters [LINK]. It depends on your phone/laptop and app which works best. For android phones, I've read good things on the BAFX and OBDLink MX adapters. I'm experimenting with Torque on my Yukon using the bluetooth version of BAFX, since I'm using my android based Samsung phone. Whatever adapter you choose, make sure clearly states it supports J1850 PWM, the OBD2 protocol your truck uses.
Thank you for this! Looks like I have some reading to do...
With two 7.3s, a good OBDII adapter and software will pay for itself very quickly, I would think.
For what you need to do, TorquePro and the OBDLink MX BlueTooth adapter should work great. I like a bigger screen for scrolling through datalogs and looking at multiple graphs, but for the limited use you have in mind, your Galaxy should be fine.
Another thought... sometimes programmers themselves can meddle with things enough to set a code. Generally, the first rule of diagnosis on these machines is to remove any programmer and see if the condition persists.
With the volt meter plugged into the power port, this will tell you.
1) before turning key to 'wait to start', it will show you where your batts are at.... 12.4volts???
2) when turning key to 'wait to start' voltage will falls to around 11 volts as glow plugs come on. below that you should wonder about your batts.
3) when turning on the key to start, the voltage should not really fall below 10.5 volts. that voltages is needed to start truck. (batts again, or starter lug down)
4) When truck is started, the voltage will remain at around 11+ voltage until the glow plugs go off.
5) When the glow plugs go off the voltage will slowly go up to the output of the Alternator. Which should be around 13.5 v.
Looks like you have a charging problem. A fully charged battery should be up around 12.7 and alternator voltage should be at least 13.8, usually higher.
I have replaced the glow plug relay last week, given it was the original...the truck has 183,000 miles on the clock. I will get the volt meter out and check some things. However, over the years I have tuned an ear to these 7.3L diesels rolling over at start up and know when the batteries are getting weak relative to a lower cranking rpm. This engine is rolling over fast but it seems to just start when cold, I say cold but here in H-town it's more like the 40* temperature. I am used to them busting off with an aggressive explosion, and idling up to that jet engine sound. This one is also throwing more white smoke on cold startup which has me puzzled. The engine light seems to come on when cold start, then go off after a short time not setting any codes. If I drive it to the store and come out it will start with that aggressive explosion and there will be no engine light.
I have something similar going on with the Excursion for the last couple of years. The engine light stays on continuously and has set codes for glow plugs but starts fine with that aggressive explosion cold. If I drive it to get up to operating temperature, I can clear the codes and the engine light will not come back on until it sits and cools down. I have read that this could be the glow plug module and/or connector, but that thing is a bugger to get off...I have tried. This truck has 225,000 miles on the clock. I may have to get another module and the connector like I just had to do with my F350 for the blower fan speed resistor.
I think your truck has a glow plug problem. Truck's system doesn't monitor glow plugs like the Excursion does, but there might be a secondary effect of a glow plug problem that's triggering something. Or maybe it's detecting a problem with the EBPV since you said that it has stopped working. Since the code seems to vanish plug your scanner in while the light is on and it should see the fault code.
Looks like you have a charging problem. A fully charged battery should be up around 12.7 and alternator voltage should be at least 13.8, usually higher.
This is NOT my truck... I was using the procedure as an example and process to go through with the Plug In Volt Meter. I have no charging problem, my batteries are fine and my Alt is fine...
Originally Posted by Brother Les
With the volt meter plugged into the power port, this will tell you.
1) before turning key to 'wait to start', it will show you where your batts are at.... 12.4volts???
2) when turning key to 'wait to start' voltage will falls to around 11 volts as glow plugs come on. below that you should wonder about your batts.
3) when turning on the key to start, the voltage should not really fall below 10.5 volts. that voltages is needed to start truck. (batts again, or starter lug down)
4) When truck is started, the voltage will remain at around 11+ voltage until the glow plugs go off.
5) When the glow plugs go off the voltage will slowly go up to the output of the Alternator. Which should be around 13.5 v.
I think your truck has a glow plug problem. Truck's system doesn't monitor glow plugs like the Excursion does, but there might be a secondary effect of a glow plug problem that's triggering something. Or maybe it's detecting a problem with the EBPV since you said that it has stopped working. Since the code seems to vanish plug your scanner in while the light is on and it should see the fault code.
As stated in my original post, I fixed the EBPV by removing the sensor and cleaning it and the tube, so it works now. I thought this was the problem and would clear the engine light, but it did not.
I would think if I had some bad glow plugs the computer would throw an engine light continuously...like what's happening with the Excursion.
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Unless the f350 is a California model, it will have a GP relay. The Excursion will have a GP module like 6.4's that monitor the GPs for functionality. Those GP modules can fail too and
hav ete GPs not work at all and no code will be set and no lights. My 2k CA truck has a GP module. A bad GPs behind a GP relay will not set codes.
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