weather just turned here about a week ago. 29 night lows. Having a hard time starting my truck. The light comes on for glow plugs and then goes out. I go to start and it fires skightly and shuts off. I keep rotating the key to engage glow plugs but does the same thing. I finally just laid on the key (which I know is probably not good) and it turned over for approx 20 sec or more before it started. When it started it was like BARELY running (no where near a normal idle). It cleared itself up . A code came on while I continued to turn the key but getting off of wrk after 14 hrs and dark at 4 am I barely caught a glimpse. FTA default ? It was F something default dont know what that means. Is there a way to check each glow plug? Once the initial start it does fine the rest of the day. The other thing I have noticed in the last 2-3 months is when I start the truck the first time of the day I see a light white smoke coming out of the exhaust (not condensation actual light white smoke) Once to operating temp its gone. Not sure if these 2 are connected. Any advice appreciated. sorry so long winded just wanted to get it all out there.

 

White smoke is normal for a cold diesel, either cranking or just started. Sounds like the glow plugs. Hook your voltimeter up, and see if the system voltage stays low for a minute while the glow plugs are running. If it jumps right up to 13.8-14.2 (or what ever is normal for your truck) your glow plugs aren't working.

 

lomac9,
My 6.0 psd is also acting like that.......

John,
Where do you hook up the voltmeter - just across one of the batteries?

Do you mean watch the voltage when the key is on and the glow plugs are activiated - or after the engine starts?

Thanks, -- BarnieTrk

 

Glow plugs stay on AFTER the engine is running (if it starts) for about 45 sec to a minute..... alternator will also NOT come on-line until after glow plugs shut off !

Test batteries before start...12.5-12.8V. Turn ignition to the run position to start glo-plugs, batt voltage will drop down to 11.5 or so volts. If engine starts, voltage will stay at 11.5v until the glo-plug timer shuts off, then alternator will kick in and voltage should rise to about 13.7-14V.

Do you plug in the engine block heater overnight? If not, I suggest you do. If all the above are normal, go to the Tech Forum at the top of the 6.0 Forum page and read the instructions for testing your FICM.

 

I am taking mine in to the dealer tomorrow and leaving it there for them to start cold. Yesterday it did not want to start after sitting for an hour or so, finally got it going. I suspect there is a weak battery and possibly a FICM.

 

Mine did the exact same. I put a tarp over the truck with a heater under it just to start it. Dealer replaced 2 injectors( under warranty) and my ficm it cost me $1000. starts like new now

 

I'll likely not be able to do the voltage tests until Saturday - in the daylight.

Yes, it does have & I do use the block heater...even though it is only in the 20s*F... whereas the manual says I shouldn't need to plug it in unless the temps get below -10*F, nevertheless, it does have 110K miles & 5 years on it now, so maybe it's getting tired already.

BarnieTrk

 

So the alternator DOESN'T start charging until the glow plugs shut off? We were discussing this a while back on here. I was wondering how the glow plugs could draw so much that the alternator couldn't keep up. I guess the yard ape at the auction where I bought my truck was right after all!

 

this is good info to know, thanks guys

 

Barnie another factor to consider is what weight of oil you are running. conventional 15w40 will barely start at that temp if not plugged in, but a 5w40 synthetic will fire right up.the cold heavy oil is just too thick for the injectors to respond quicly enough. I know on the late 80's to 90's detroit series 60's they would set a code for "injector response time slow". all it was, was with cold heavy oil they just couldn't move fast enough. the code cleared as soon as the engine warmed up

 

From everything I have seen with mine when the FICM failed I would have to guess that is the culprit.

Your local diesel mechanic can do a cold FICM test and fire each of your injectors individually with the IDS software. If it were me that is where i would start.

And living in the midwest I agree totally with going to 5w 40 oil. I made the switch about a year and a half ago and what a difference it made with cold starts!

 

I will check w/ a volt meter. Is there a way to check each glow plug individually to see which one or ones are bad? And the same w/ the injectors? Is that something that can be done at home or do you have to bring it to a dealer and get it id diagnostically done. Sorry the ignorance but FICM? Dont know all these abbreviations yet still learning.

 

FICM is Fuel Injection Control Module. With hard starts I am guessing that may be the issue. How many many miles are on your truck? What year is it? What model? what if anything has been done to it to this point? Can you give us a little more info?

 

100% agree with switching to 5w40. night and day difference with cold day starts. Check the FICM

 

I have a 2005 F350 King Ranch w/114K. No machanical work has been to the vehicle. Ok I checked the glow plugs. 12.5 on the batt 11.7 w/ ignition on and threw crank up after approx 45 secs up to 13.8-14. So doing that test I am assuming the glow plugs are in proper working order. I did get my batt. checked and they said the werent putting out the 850 CC so I bought a brand new set. I didnt plug the truck in last night to see if it would start normally and w/ my luck it didnt. Still have the prob. It wants to start but shuts right off. Its so close to running but doesnt fire completely off. Starts fine if the truck in plugged in.