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I have a 96 ford f150 5.8L E4OD transmission with 169,000 miles on it. About 9 thousand miles ago i had the trans rebuilt and it hasn't been right ever since. It wont pick a gear. There is plenty of fluid it shifts alright from 1 to 2 and then its high rpm to get into third and if i want to get it into 4th i have to floor it and let off really quick. Even if I do this it will stay for a little while and then it will neutral out back into 3rd. I have replaced the solenoid pack, Neutral Safety Switch and the TPS. Also if i am on the free way and hit the overdrive off at about 70 it will kick it down into second and i have to floor it to get it into third but it wont stick. If i turn off the overdrive at all it will not shift into third or fourth. Right after it was rebuilt it stopped shifting above 2nd for a while and then just started working. I have changed the fluid once and pulled the pan twice to see if i was getting clutch material in the bottom and there was nothing both times. Sometimes i will be on the freeway and the O/D light will start flashing and it shifts just fine except for a hard shift from 1st to 2nd. Any suggestions? PCM? Im pretty sure its electrical and i have gone through the harness and every thing seems fine.
These members are great at pointing you in right direction, if you fill in all the blanks first, every detail you feel, hear, see (speed/rpm) it does at,
give more details, what/why was it rebuilt, did a shop rebuild it, or your friends buddy, seems like a warranty would have still been effect, especially if it started same day you got it back, do you have a list of what was done/replaced (running $$$ amount tally), have you reset codes, and drove it and rechecked codes?
These members are great at pointing you in right direction, if you fill in all the blanks first, every detail you feel, hear, see (speed/rpm) it does at,
give more details, what/why was it rebuilt, did a shop rebuild it, or your friends buddy, seems like a warranty would have still been effect, especially if it started same day you got it back, do you have a list of what was done/replaced (running $$$ amount tally), have you reset codes, and drove it and rechecked codes?
Yes alright. I just replaced the vss in the rear diff as well and that seemed to help alot but hasn't completely fixed it. It is shifting great from first to third now. When I hit 40mph it should be shifting into fourth but it doesn't until I floor it and let off really quick. It will shift fine when I do that but then the tranny will neutral out and drop back into third. Also when I turn my OD off it will shift down into second and won't stick in third no matter what speed I'm going. A long time before it was rebuilt it I did a routine fluid change on it and it wouldn't shift above 2nd for a week or two and then just started working again.
I chose to rebuild it because I had to do the oil pan gasket on the motor and the tranny was coming out anyways. My boss Ryan at rkl diesel gave me a huge discount and only made me pay for the parts. He is the number one tranny guy in Utah and he is the one that put it together. I did put a new torque converter in. I spent about $575 on the rebuild and $250 on electrical after. There is no abnormal clutch material in the pan.
I've never heard of an E4OD being rebuilt for under $1000. Not one that lasted for any amount of time.
My AOD was rebuilt with 4R70W internals and new torque converter and that cost $1750 with a warranty. And i have literally gave it hell since with no problems.
He must have gave you a huge discount because most are $2000-3000 with 3 years or 36000 mile warranties.
Sorry about the multiple threads. Still trying to figure out this site. New symptoms. So I was reading on another thread and it said check your brake lights even though was a long shot I checked and the one on my cab was out. I replaced it and it didn't do too much but it seems like the tranny is more willing to shift. But it still won't stick in higher gears. Is there a seal that could have not seated properly? Could the line pressure be too high? When the tranny is in limp it works just fine why would it not under normal circumstances?
I'm going to have a tranny shop look at it this or next week. But if it comes down to it and I have to just buy a crate tranny is there one you guys suggest? Stick with e4od?
I'm going to have a tranny shop look at it this or next week. But if it comes down to it and I have to just buy a crate tranny is there one you guys suggest? Stick with e4od?
You need to figure out what is wrong with this transmission first. If it is electrical and not an internal part in this transmission then you will still have the same problem except your wallet will be much lighter.
You need to figure out what is wrong with this transmission first. If it is electrical and not an internal part in this transmission then you will still have the same problem except your wallet will be much lighter.
x2 on the diagnosis first. It's always best to make sure that you fix the issue when you spend that kind of dough.
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I've never seen P1728 get set from an electrical problem. If there was an electrical problem there would be a code for an electrical fault.
Did you replace the torque converter? That's what usually sets the P1728 code.
Since Mark, the Ford Transmission Engineer (is that retired?) asked about the torque converter being replaced, I'll second that question. so x2 here as well...
Well I figured it out. I took it to a tranny shop and he tore it down. When the shift kit was put in one of the springs was put in backwards allowing for fluid to bypass the clutches. My clutches are toast and I need a rebuild. It's going to cost 1800 with a 3 year warranty.
My boss Ryan at rkl diesel gave me a huge discount and only made me pay for the parts. He is the number one tranny guy in Utah and he is the one that put it together. I did put a new torque converter in. I spent about $575 on the rebuild and $250 on electrical after. There is no abnormal clutch material in the pan.
Originally Posted by JordanTP77
Well I figured it out. I took it to a tranny shop and he tore it down. When the shift kit was put in one of the springs was put in backwards allowing for fluid to bypass the clutches. My clutches are toast and I need a rebuild. It's going to cost 1800 with a 3 year warranty.
Seems to me if your boss installed the shift kit he should be paying for the rebuild? If the clutches are wiped out that fast I would think there should have been a lot of friction material in the pan.
Yeah I thought that too. I don't know why they didnt show that they were wearing that fast. With my boss yes he should be but he is no longer my boss and I can't really prove the liability was on him. It was a simple mistake and those happen in life. We will see if he replies to my text.
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