E40d wont down shift to 1st
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E40d wont down shift to 1st
Hello thanks for the help in advance.
I have a 1993 F150 5.0 with a e4od transmission. 215000 miles.
when in OD the truck won't move after coming to a stop until about 2500 RPM. Does the same when I turn the OD switch off. If I manually shift to 1st or 2ND the truck accelerates normally. Additionally after driving the truck for more than 15 minutes then allowing it to sit for about 5 minutes the truck will properly accelerate from a stop while in OD.
I have changed the oil pan filter and checked fluid levels properly. I feel this is a electronic problem. I have heard to many stories of rebuilding a tranny just to have the same problem. Could this be a bad solenoid? Any advice would be appreciated.
I have a 1993 F150 5.0 with a e4od transmission. 215000 miles.
when in OD the truck won't move after coming to a stop until about 2500 RPM. Does the same when I turn the OD switch off. If I manually shift to 1st or 2ND the truck accelerates normally. Additionally after driving the truck for more than 15 minutes then allowing it to sit for about 5 minutes the truck will properly accelerate from a stop while in OD.
I have changed the oil pan filter and checked fluid levels properly. I feel this is a electronic problem. I have heard to many stories of rebuilding a tranny just to have the same problem. Could this be a bad solenoid? Any advice would be appreciated.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
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From: Kentucky
Some helpful tips:
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Some helpful tips:
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Some helpful tips:
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
How to Run a Self Test Paper clip method
If you plan to keep the truck and work on it yourself I highly suggest to invest in an Equus 3145 code reader. ~$25 USD at many retialers.
Using either method above run the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests and Stored Code (CM) display. List the three digit codes you may have gotten and when they were displayed. Keep in mind if all of the KOEO tests pass and/or no stored codes you will get the System Pass code 111 for each.
No codes means you did not initiate the self tests correctly or some other issue is preventing the computer from going into test mode.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
To expand on 634 the causes likely range from the Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) being damaged to the wiring that is associated with it. Depending on the condition of your truck it's possible that there's a lot of dirt/rust/junk up in your wiring. If you can take that wiring connector off without damaging anything, shine a light in the pins of the sensor and your wiring. Clean both out with some electronics grade cleaner spray and check the pins, see if any are bent/missing.
If after all that fails, the Ford manual wants you to make sure the sensor is aligned correctly. Try going from 'Park' to '1' on the gearshift and make sure each selection feels right. If the shifter is sloppy/not lined up on the dash you may have a misaligned sensor.
If after all that fails, the Ford manual wants you to make sure the sensor is aligned correctly. Try going from 'Park' to '1' on the gearshift and make sure each selection feels right. If the shifter is sloppy/not lined up on the dash you may have a misaligned sensor.
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New User
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will a MLPS cause it not to shift into First from OD?
Last edited by Todd89; Nov 1, 2017 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Correction
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
Hard to say ... Don't forget that bad wiring can act like a failed part/sensor. I can't help but imagine that because the average driver doesn't use '1' and '2' very often and just go straight to 'D'. That might cause some slop/misalignment where the computer isn't seeing the right input from the MLPS even when you select the desired gear.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,362
Likes: 824
From: Mi'kma'ki
Power isn't getting to the trans for some reason until the temp is raised.Without power the trans starts in high gear.No code required to help know what this issue is.I don't even think there is one devoted to the issue anyway.Suspect faulty wiring.The solenoid pack plug is a common failure point.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,698
Likes: 47
From: Mexico, Missouri
Power isn't getting to the trans for some reason until the temp is raised.Without power the trans starts in high gear.No code required to help know what this issue is.I don't even think there is one devoted to the issue anyway.Suspect faulty wiring.The solenoid pack plug is a common failure point.
Had same problem. I didn't get the solenoid plug completely snapped together. I had just repaired 6 exposed wires in plug. As soon as I got underneath and I felt click, all was good!
Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 2
Here is a test for the MLPS or range sensor.
will not start with the key ??????? - 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support - Ford Bronco Zone Early Bronco Classic FullSize Broncos
I am on my third MLPS in fifteen or so years. I don't throw parts at problems but I would change it again in a heartbeat. It is a crappy part.
will not start with the key ??????? - 80-96 Ford Bronco Tech Support - Ford Bronco Zone Early Bronco Classic FullSize Broncos
yo,
I believe you are describing what Ford calls the Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor
History;
As of 1994, the Neutral Safety Switch or Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) is referred to as a Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) or Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (driver side of E4OD)
Adjustment Info
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit)
"put it in neutral, loosen the bolts, and line up the marks."
Posted Image
MLPS shown is same for Bronco E4OD
Connector Pin-Out Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at http://oldfuelinject...ans_harness.gif The alternative is to back-
TR Signal (LB/Y) to Signal Return (Gy/R) resistance values:
P = 3770-4607 Ohms; R = 1304-1593 Ohms;
N = 660-807 Ohms; (D) = 361-442 Ohms;
2 = 190-232 Ohms;
1 = 78-95 Ohms.
or probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V. by SigEPblue
Posted Image
I believe you are describing what Ford calls the Manual Lever Position/Transmission Range (MLPS/TR) Sensor
History;
As of 1994, the Neutral Safety Switch or Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) is referred to as a Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS) or Transmission Range (TR) Sensor (driver side of E4OD)
Adjustment Info
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit)
"put it in neutral, loosen the bolts, and line up the marks."
Posted Image
MLPS shown is same for Bronco E4OD
Connector Pin-Out Diagram
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at http://oldfuelinject...ans_harness.gif The alternative is to back-
TR Signal (LB/Y) to Signal Return (Gy/R) resistance values:
P = 3770-4607 Ohms; R = 1304-1593 Ohms;
N = 660-807 Ohms; (D) = 361-442 Ohms;
2 = 190-232 Ohms;
1 = 78-95 Ohms.
or probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V. by SigEPblue
Posted Image
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Hello thanks for the help in advance.
I have a 1993 F150 5.0 with a e4od transmission. 215000 miles.
when in OD the truck won't move after coming to a stop until about 2500 RPM. Does the same when I turn the OD switch off. If I manually shift to 1st or 2ND the truck accelerates normally. Additionally after driving the truck for more than 15 minutes then allowing it to sit for about 5 minutes the truck will properly accelerate from a stop while in OD.
I have changed the oil pan filter and checked fluid levels properly. I feel this is a electronic problem. I have heard to many stories of rebuilding a tranny just to have the same problem. Could this be a bad solenoid? Any advice would be appreciated.
I have a 1993 F150 5.0 with a e4od transmission. 215000 miles.
when in OD the truck won't move after coming to a stop until about 2500 RPM. Does the same when I turn the OD switch off. If I manually shift to 1st or 2ND the truck accelerates normally. Additionally after driving the truck for more than 15 minutes then allowing it to sit for about 5 minutes the truck will properly accelerate from a stop while in OD.
I have changed the oil pan filter and checked fluid levels properly. I feel this is a electronic problem. I have heard to many stories of rebuilding a tranny just to have the same problem. Could this be a bad solenoid? Any advice would be appreciated.
For anyone else with this same issue...
after retiving the the codes I received a 634 which is the MLPS or “neutral safety switch.” I replaced it after it tested bad. After replacing it, the truck would not start in park and drove in fail safe mode which is taking off in lower gear and hard shifts. I pulled the codes again and this time I got just about every transmission code listed. (Yes the notches on the mlps were lined up)
After tinkering for multiple weekends I was exhausted and just limped it into a shop. Luckily I found a honest shop and after 20 minutes they told me my PCM was fried. 315 dollars later my transmission is running like new.... for now.
Thanks for everyone’s help on here. Next time I’ll take the time to check the PCM myself.
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