remote battery kill switch circuit
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 467
From: Mason City, Iowa
If your wiring is O.E. stock, I could see your concerns as over time the insulation gets brittle and breaks off. And there is not a lot that is fused with the stock wiring harness. But if your wiring harness has been changed with a fuse block added, and its physically in good shape then I would worry much less, as a fault should open up a fuse. Just my opinion.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,880
Likes: 4,117
From: Angier, NC
I got to ask if the battery goes dead how do you get into the truck?
You say you have to keep some things powered so you can get it?
Even with the need to power up things kill power to full truck like someone said with the keyed switch on the NEG side and take key with you.
Even with the battery mounted under the floor just extend the cables to reach where ever you place the kill switch.
Dave ----
You say you have to keep some things powered so you can get it?
Even with the need to power up things kill power to full truck like someone said with the keyed switch on the NEG side and take key with you.
Even with the battery mounted under the floor just extend the cables to reach where ever you place the kill switch.
Dave ----
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old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,918
Likes: 1,050
From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Hooler, wiring is new painless system (although that name is misleading) and most everything is fused
FF2,,,, battery dead ? emergency pull cable from left fender well to solenoid in the door.
well, ya'll are turning me away from my idea and looking into the single disconnect in the negative cable but that gives me more to worry on. The truck is low and if I keep the cables as short as I want, switch location is going to be a problem.
The running boards are about 6" off the ground...maybe 8" which means kneeling down or lying down to actuate it. Add to that 71 birthdays. Gotta get creative with my placement I guess. That was one of the reasons for the remote operated switch... I could put the switch somewhere convenient for me.. Just more to think about and I guess keeping the brain active is a good thing.
Started engine today and found another ''opportunity" for thinking. Carb leaking fuel down thru venturies... so I got that to think about too. But that's another thread.
thanks for all the ideas and info... it's good to be nice to old people.
john
j
FF2,,,, battery dead ? emergency pull cable from left fender well to solenoid in the door.
well, ya'll are turning me away from my idea and looking into the single disconnect in the negative cable but that gives me more to worry on. The truck is low and if I keep the cables as short as I want, switch location is going to be a problem.
The running boards are about 6" off the ground...maybe 8" which means kneeling down or lying down to actuate it. Add to that 71 birthdays. Gotta get creative with my placement I guess. That was one of the reasons for the remote operated switch... I could put the switch somewhere convenient for me.. Just more to think about and I guess keeping the brain active is a good thing.
Started engine today and found another ''opportunity" for thinking. Carb leaking fuel down thru venturies... so I got that to think about too. But that's another thread.
thanks for all the ideas and info... it's good to be nice to old people.
john
j
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 467
From: Mason City, Iowa
I have been struggling with this idea too. I have a 56 and the OE original wiring harness still, so I disconnect the battery when I garage it. I have rebuilt a lot of the wiring but one of these days I plan to do the same as you and will go with Painless.
About the carburetor. Sounds like maybe some trash holding the needle and seat open thus flooding out the carburetor. Or a drowned float that has pin holes in it.
About the carburetor. Sounds like maybe some trash holding the needle and seat open thus flooding out the carburetor. Or a drowned float that has pin holes in it.
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