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looking into remote battery kill switch install using a toggle switch to activate a latching relay ahead of the starter solenoid. I want to keep all the fused stuff powered... doors,windows, radio memory and just kill power to the starter relay
I'll use a momentary toggle switch hidden to pull in/out the latching relay located next to the starter solenoid... How's bout looking at this diagram and see if it's right. also give me some ideas of what you think.
I have a 49 F1 with 302 & AOD. All my cars have battery disconnects on them. Some are parked in same building together so I don't want to lose all if one has a problem.
I'm on the Fire Dept and have seen many cars new and old catch fire unexpectedly. I use a Ford starter solenoid and pilot switch to do as you are thinking but I have everything shut off except the pilot switch circuit . Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid, as a regular one will fail shortly. Good luck
I'm using a 200 amp continuous duty Cole Hershey starter relay... had problems with a.p. store relays sticking... still searching for the proper magnetic latching relay
Looking at this one https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/...BoCqZIQAvD_BwE
it rated 100 amp continuous and 500 amp for 30 seconds.... I think that will handle starting situations. Thirty seconds is a long grind on a starter.
Here is a product from Battery Brain that I am looking at. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sms-t3-12v?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-battery-brain&gclid=CjwKCAiA45njBRBwEiwASnZT5zjEoYDhkxiGg3 7aO180dfNhVKHdk7dUbH8Wer8nW7_13TqpCKPOGBoCky0QAvD_ BwE
My first reaction was having the toggle switch in series with the starter solenoid control wire fron the ignition. Maybe I haven't had enough coffee yet but if the toggle switch opened the start/ignition circuit would that eliminate the need for a full load rated relay and 1/0 wiring through it.
I must be missing something. Look for my edit when the coin drops and the light comes on.
Just curious what you are trying to accomplish. A simple remote battery disconnect? Fwiw, I just used a 100A continuous Cole-Hersee relay and a N/O oil pressure switch that closes at 7 psig on rise with a toggle switch override.
Now that I saw your wiring diagram, I question why you want to isolate the starter motor?
well, isolating the starter is a security and fire prevention method, but I need the 12 volt circuits to open the doors and such
Battery brain looks good, Hooler but it mounts to the battery... mine is under the truck in a drop down battery box mounted to the frame... no room there, and you
should check some reviews on Amazon... some folks had lots of problems with them failing
John, I think you are over thinking it! This is what I use on the ground side and it shuts everything down and I mount it so I can access it from the outside in the pass side frame rail by the front cab mount
John, I think you are over thinking it! This is what I use on the ground side and it shuts everything down and I mount it so I can access it from the outside in the pass side frame rail by the front cab mount
That is definitely keeping it simple, and low cost.
John,
If it is just an anti-theft issue then , the above disconnect or toggle inline with the start/iginition wire to starter solenoid would work.
If is to eliminate fire due to shorted battery circuit then similar manual disconnect on the positive battery side works.
Now if its a James Bond scenario, then we may have to rethink the whole build and get "Q" involved.
Please educate me as my thinking is putting the switch on the ground side still eliminates the risk of a shorted battery circuit. Once a circuit is open the positive side can short with no ill effects so long as the ground side is open
My way you don't have to worry about heavy amp loads going through the switch.
Also the cut off I showed has a removable "key"
Overthinking a lot, imho. I have never seen a documented case in my 50+ years of wrenching where a starter shorted out all by itself, or a starter relay either for that matter.
Bigwin's scenario is the most prudent way to go, and if you needed an "always on" circuit you could just add a bypass ground wire for that dedicated circuit. Keeping it simple.
Please educate me as my thinking is putting the switch on the ground side still eliminates the risk of a shorted battery circuit. Once a circuit is open the positive side can short with no ill effects so long as the ground side is open
Your way does work. Either opening the positive or neg from the battery would prevent unwanted current flow under shorted fault.
