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Head gasket question

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Old Feb 14, 2019 | 06:08 PM
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Head gasket question

Had some issues with my 05 f350. took it to the shop and they are saying head gasket is the culprit. The quote to fix is stinging a little and I dont want to get hosed ,so I am just wondering roughly what it costs to fix from others that have done the repair. either in the shop or at home.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2019 | 07:07 PM
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Prices at shops can be all over the place from 4k+. The thing is trusting them to do a quality job and change the parts they charge you for. And changing the parts that after 15 years need to be replaced.
I just did mine myself a few months ago that included new O-ringed heads $2300, Felpro headgaskets, Felpro engine gasket and seal kit, Motorcraft hoses, water pump, coolant, ARP studs, ARP inner head bolts, fuel line crossover kit, coolant line bypass kit, manifold bolt kit, Motorcraft turbo install kit, Motorcraft glow plugs, Motorcraft cam/crank sensors, green Belts, Motorcraft pushrods, stainless Y-pipe, up-pipe & bolts, welded EGR cooler, Motorcraft rocker retainer clips, Motorcraft standpipe & dummy plugs, 5w40 syn oil & Motorcraft oil filter for approx. $1600. for misc. parts.
So that's approximately $3900 in parts plus 28 hours labor I had into it. Alot of shops are $100 an hour.
Grand total $6700.
That should give you an idea. I may have forgot a couple of misc. items so if I remember I'll add them on edit.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2019 | 10:32 PM
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I think your first step is to confirm that it really needs head gaskets. Plenty of shops out there that don't know much and just take the easy route - replace everything! - and, of course, the scammers too. Search this forum for articles on the topic. That's a lot of money for something that might not be the problem at all. If you'll describe symptoms, some of the techs here might eliminate or confirm. Here's an easy, inexpensive test to start with:

 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 02:58 PM
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Sorry for the late reply, been out of town at meetings
Truck seemed to be running fine, then all of a sudden these symptoms started.
.
Symptoms:
big power loss, more noticeable when warmed up
engine surges while driving, a 300- 400 hundred rpm.
at idle after engine is warm , idle surges the same as while driving
had a little bit of blue smoke out exhaust for a week prior to issues. Before that only ever seen a tiny bit of blue when truck was cold started and only for a min or less
I would like to say there was steam out the exhaust, but its been so cold out its hard to tell.

When I took it to the shop, they called me into the bay and showed me that the rad hose was hard as a rock before the motor was warmed up and that was why they say head gasket.

05 F 350
new ficm
new batteries
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 03:05 PM
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How does the shop know it isn't a leaking EGR cooler? Did you watch the video in the link that IHateCommieCars posted?

Have you parked the truck on a decline and pulled the EGR valve to see if moisture is in the intake manifold?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 03:31 PM
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yes I just watched the video, Ill go rig that up and see what happens.

Thanks
 
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Old Feb 25, 2019 | 03:38 PM
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Yeah, that shop sounds like a scammer. That's no way to diagnose head gaskets - even Bonehead knows that. Take the time and invest a few dollars in the simple tests that any dummy can do. Does it have an even crank? Blowback out the filler tube? Bubbles in the fuel bowl? The test in that vid I posted. Coolant under the EGR valve. There's some more.

Yeah you got some symptoms, and yeah, it might be headgaskets, but it's worth $20 and an hour to confirm it isn't something else. Don't make us come over there and slap you around.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2019 | 03:12 PM
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finally warmed up to above freezing, I did that bubble test and had no bubbles at all?
took the truck out for a drive, same surging issues. As for the steam/white smoke, there is none.
I took a few videos that ill tyr to post once i edit them down for time to show whats happening. Also truck stalled as i was turning into my parking spot and was hard to start up again.
After waiting 30 sec or so it started, I cranked the wheel and it stalled again, and again hard to start. like it was getting no fuel.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2019 | 04:56 PM
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We can’t diagnose much without some numbers from a scan tool of some sort.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2019 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Geeha
finally warmed up to above freezing, I did that bubble test and had no bubbles at all?
took the truck out for a drive, same surging issues. As for the steam/white smoke, there is none.
I took a few videos that ill tyr to post once i edit them down for time to show whats happening. Also truck stalled as i was turning into my parking spot and was hard to start up again.
After waiting 30 sec or so it started, I cranked the wheel and it stalled again, and again hard to start. like it was getting no fuel.
Great news! You just saved $4000.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2019 | 09:56 PM
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dtc_cnt 0
load pct 30.6
ect C 7
rpm 798
warm ups 181
clr_dist 4411
vpwr 11.509 G
load pct 32.2
ect C 16
map kpa 96.0
IAT 1
egr % ptc 0.0
egr err % 0.0
Baro kpa 95
vpwr V 12.195
app D % 20.0
app E % 30.2
app F % 19.2

these are from the live data on the obd2 scan tool
taken at start up.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 05:01 AM
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VPower is low at idle (798 rpm), Is your alternator working?

What is FICM MPower value?
What is the EBP value?
What is the EOT value?
What is the vgt% value?
What is the ICP value?
What is the IPR duty cycle value?

It helps to see the cranking values as well as the idle values (unless it starts quickly, ie - no extended cranks).
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 08:52 AM
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I had the alternator checked when I put in the new FICM (58V) and Batteries a couple months ago,
I didnt see those values on the scan tool I am using, Ill go through it again tonight. Truck starts up fine, no extended cranks
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 10:01 AM
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All I know is that if the alternator is working, you should see more than 12.2v.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2019 | 04:37 PM
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possibly bad injectors, a bad ICP sensor can cause surging, possibly a high pressure oil leak, possible low fuel pressure

definitely not head gaskets
 
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