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Sorry guys --- it just does not make economic sense on that $1300 block of CNC'd aluminum ..................same warranty as over the counter service parts from Moto and I have to shell out ~ 2x the price (NOT HAPPENING)..............no can do and I haven't / won't on my or customers vehicles.............the OEM variant produces optimal pressure and that's all that's needed, anything else is OVERKILL, questionable value added.................
No one is forcing you to buy anything. It’s a discussion, we all have opinions but you act like you started the thread and we are NOT telling you that you’re an idiot for not wanting an Adrenaline HPOP. The OP actually stated that he plans on buying a Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP and his question was about the studs and gaskets.
First of all thanks for all the feed back.
I purchased the adrenaline hpop with the stock flow because I am running stock injectors and don't plan on going bigger. I decided to go ahead and do the studs and gaskets since I have them already and am going to re-seal the whole engine. I also purchased an ATS stage 2 tranny and converter which will be done at the same time. I have not purchased a FICM yet and was planning on using a 48 volt Eds FICM with an Atlas 40 tune. From surfing the forums and the net it seems as though the 53 and 58 volt FICMs are un necessary and just add heat. Does any one have experience with this FICM or other recommendations ? Is there any thing else I should do while I am this far in ? My plan is to pull the bumper, grill, radiator and radiator support then pull the motor and trans for easier access to do the work. I have a forklift which should help as well.
SmackDaddy I see you are in Victoria Tx I am in Liberty Hill Tx which is not to far away in Texas terms.
It was only $400 more for the stage 2. You get billet input shaft , deeper pan and its beefed up more. If your spending that much on the trans why not. I have been afraid to use any of the hotter tunes because I didn't want to grenade the trans. So now I won't have that worry. I get my HPOP on friday the only other thing to get is the FICM which i will order today. Everything else is here already so I will probably start tearing into it on friday.
Not second guessing, just jealous because I need that transmission! Mine has 10k on 175/30 injectors and a bunch of other mods on the engine with only a few on the transmission and she’s holdimg together great so far. I installed MTS shift solenoids, the 6.4L deeper aluminum pan with 6.4L filter, Dieselsite high pressure transmission fluid filter system and a cold transfer with fresh fluid., I’m installing a billet input shaft and possibly beefing up the guts but not sure if I can dig into one myself...I might just do the billet input shaft and swap 3.73 gears for 4.11s to compensate for 305/70s which are a little taller than 35”. That should take some stress off the tranny in my mind...
No one is forcing you to buy anything. It’s a discussion, we all have opinions but you act like you started the thread and we are telling you that you’re an idiot for not wanting an Adrenaline HPOP. The OP actually stated that he plans on buying a Dieselsite Adrenaline HPOP and his question was about the studs and gaskets.
Shouldn't run around like an idiot calling other people idiots.................bad form...........
Shouldn't run around like an idiot calling other people idiots.................bad form...........
You know nothing about me, don’t be an internet cowboy.
I left out the word NOT right before idiot in that post. Don’t be so sensitive. I edited my post so you can see what point I was making.
First of all thanks for all the feed back.
I purchased the adrenaline hpop with the stock flow because I am running stock injectors and don't plan on going bigger. I decided to go ahead and do the studs and gaskets since I have them already and am going to re-seal the whole engine. I also purchased an ATS stage 2 tranny and converter which will be done at the same time. I have not purchased a FICM yet and was planning on using a 48 volt Eds FICM with an Atlas 40 tune. From surfing the forums and the net it seems as though the 53 and 58 volt FICMs are un necessary and just add heat. Does any one have experience with this FICM or other recommendations ? Is there any thing else I should do while I am this far in ? My plan is to pull the bumper, grill, radiator and radiator support then pull the motor and trans for easier access to do the work. I have a forklift which should help as well.
SmackDaddy I see you are in Victoria Tx I am in Liberty Hill Tx which is not to far away in Texas terms.
I am running Ed's 48V FICM w/ the Atlas 40. I love it. Higher voltage does nothing for performance, and the higher voltage creates more opportunities for problems.
As far as other recommendations, I just did my cab and body mounts. They were in pretty bad shape. Best to do them w/ the cab off. Also, you will never have better access to all the heater hoses!
I also just did the tie-rods and drag link. At 210k they were getting a little loose. You might want to check ball joints and U joints also. I would bet that the ball joints have been replaced at least once already. Who knows about the U joints. Mine are original and still in good shape, and I drive some fairly rough roads.
Look everything over for oil leaks (rear main seal, bed plate, etc). Address all issues you have money and time for.
Since I am taking the engine out of the excursion and taking the heads off to do gaskets and studs and taking the bed plate off to re-seal it , should I go deeper ?
Several of my friends think I should go ahead and do rings and bearings and put new rings on the injectors. Another thinks I should do do a stage 2 cam and lifters and O-ring the heads. I have had her since she was new , nothing else is as big and capable , I have no plans to replace her , I don't have a vehicle payment and the credit card is not maxed out --yet !
Do I go all the way down the rabbit hole or money hole and completely go through the motor ? Keep in mind it is still running and driving at the moment.
You have to put new o rings and washers on the injectors if you pull them out anyway.
As for the rest, I am contemplating all that as well but that might just mean buying a long block to save time and have a warranty...
Well I still am not sure how deep I'm going to go but here it goes!
I decided that the easiest way to proceed was to pull the motor and trans out of the front in my car port then move the motor into my garage for disassembly and rebuild. ready to start
Pulling the front end off was relatively easy
Remove the brush guard and bumper
pull the grill and headlight bucket in 1 unit only a few bolts and some plastic push rivets? holding some rubbery trim pieces
unbolt the power steering cooler and move to the side
pull one line and a few bolts and move the trans cooler to one side
Remove AC condenser charge air cooler and radiator.
Once that stuff is off you have supper easy access to the rest of the motor. I spent about 3 hours gettin to this point including moving my tool box from my shop to the carport.
Unfortunately I couldn't do the work in my shop instead of easy access now
having to move things around, but i use the shop as a welding shop to make money and all the welding and grinding make lots of metal dust which don't play well with engine rebuilding.
My next steps will be to pull of the rest connections from motor to body then remove the turbo. I will be building a motor pick plate that bolts where the turbo pedestal mounts. I have seen several of these on the forum but none have dimensions of the bolt pattern and they don't have a means to adjust for the center of gravity. When i build mine I will post pictures and a drawing so if anyone else wants to make one similar they have a pattern.
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