Wiring or Nasty FICM
#1
Wiring or Nasty FICM
So I have been trying to track down a CNS problem for weeks, you can see all the symptoms, troubleshooting and repairs on my other thread "Not your average Crank No Start".
This FICM was "Rebuilt" by International in 2014, not seeing low voltage on (Vehicle, Logic or Main) I assumed it was good. I did get a circuit low on 1 and 8 so here I am at the end of my rope, I had a few suggestions that it could be FICM related. I researched the FICM issue and thought I might as well open it up to see what I could find. First off, Visually "rebuilt" by International is a TRAVESTY. I am hoping the PO did this repair, I could not imagine that a company would let this out of the door. I have not personally seen the inside of other FICM's in the past however judging from other Photo's online this looks bad. That being said, it appears to work, and with my ICP or EBP sensor unplugged I can drive the truck with little issue. I am recovering from the gov shutdown impact currently and I really need a way out of this truck shutdown with as little expense as possible (I am already 2k invested) I am borderline on the edge of what the truck is worth.
I would like some input on Three things,
1. I have read the repair documentation and in several versions from different sources they say to not allow the two resistors to bridge.
Mine has a what looks like a bridge and it looks like the resistors have been overheated by a very sloppy job. BUT! I look at the traces on the board, and I am confused why the bridging would cause an issue, the board appears on the bottom combines them to the ground plane as well as a connection to the shell chassis. Can someone with one the bench check to see if the ohms between the the two resistors is 0?
I did attempt to clean the job up slightly but keep in mind, it was bad when I got here....
2. The Caps on the right side have a very slight pucker to them, I had issues with motherboard and LCD repairs in the past with much smaller caps that were the main cause of failure, they were much more noticeable than these, however I thought I would ask, do they look out of the ordinary?
3. Before I break out another $150 what is the ohm reading on the 4 screw thru connections suppose to be? I have seen tons of video's how to measure the volts based on the 4th screw hole, but nothing on the rest. I see a almost short to the case on the first two holes, is that normal?
When I opened it up.
There is a very thick coating of clear epoxy.
This FICM was "Rebuilt" by International in 2014, not seeing low voltage on (Vehicle, Logic or Main) I assumed it was good. I did get a circuit low on 1 and 8 so here I am at the end of my rope, I had a few suggestions that it could be FICM related. I researched the FICM issue and thought I might as well open it up to see what I could find. First off, Visually "rebuilt" by International is a TRAVESTY. I am hoping the PO did this repair, I could not imagine that a company would let this out of the door. I have not personally seen the inside of other FICM's in the past however judging from other Photo's online this looks bad. That being said, it appears to work, and with my ICP or EBP sensor unplugged I can drive the truck with little issue. I am recovering from the gov shutdown impact currently and I really need a way out of this truck shutdown with as little expense as possible (I am already 2k invested) I am borderline on the edge of what the truck is worth.
I would like some input on Three things,
1. I have read the repair documentation and in several versions from different sources they say to not allow the two resistors to bridge.
Mine has a what looks like a bridge and it looks like the resistors have been overheated by a very sloppy job. BUT! I look at the traces on the board, and I am confused why the bridging would cause an issue, the board appears on the bottom combines them to the ground plane as well as a connection to the shell chassis. Can someone with one the bench check to see if the ohms between the the two resistors is 0?
I did attempt to clean the job up slightly but keep in mind, it was bad when I got here....
2. The Caps on the right side have a very slight pucker to them, I had issues with motherboard and LCD repairs in the past with much smaller caps that were the main cause of failure, they were much more noticeable than these, however I thought I would ask, do they look out of the ordinary?
3. Before I break out another $150 what is the ohm reading on the 4 screw thru connections suppose to be? I have seen tons of video's how to measure the volts based on the 4th screw hole, but nothing on the rest. I see a almost short to the case on the first two holes, is that normal?
When I opened it up.
There is a very thick coating of clear epoxy.
#2
The stuff you are calling "clear epoxy" is a staking compound that will come off.
Any cap that is swelling is a bad thing. If it goes all the way and pops it can take
the board out to the point where it can't be repaired. They are multi layered and
when mine went bang the only fix was a new board. Call Ed or Scott and see
how much they will charge to test it. Voltage is not always the only problem
that a FICM can have. Logic board problems come up also.
EDIT : Also I am not sure it the wrapped cap looking thing is a cap or an inductor.
http://www.ficmrepair.comhttp://www.ficmrepair.com
Any cap that is swelling is a bad thing. If it goes all the way and pops it can take
the board out to the point where it can't be repaired. They are multi layered and
when mine went bang the only fix was a new board. Call Ed or Scott and see
how much they will charge to test it. Voltage is not always the only problem
that a FICM can have. Logic board problems come up also.
EDIT : Also I am not sure it the wrapped cap looking thing is a cap or an inductor.
http://www.ficmrepair.comhttp://www.ficmrepair.com
#3
If you have a Circuit Low on two cylinders, it is very likely an issue with the logic board of the FICM at the minimum with a possibility of additional issues on the power board.
From these pics, it looks like the PO was in there as that solder job didn't come from anyone that knew what they were doing...minimally. That said, I'd be concerned about the possibility of heat-damage (and reliability) considering what we see in your pics as well.
BTW, we work on both sides of the module. Let us know if we can help!
From these pics, it looks like the PO was in there as that solder job didn't come from anyone that knew what they were doing...minimally. That said, I'd be concerned about the possibility of heat-damage (and reliability) considering what we see in your pics as well.
BTW, we work on both sides of the module. Let us know if we can help!
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