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If the trailer become detached from the hitch then the chains will equalize automatically. The entire trailer will swing towards the shorter chain at that angle at that point both chains will pull equally albeit at an angle that will cause more problems than the strenglth of the shackle. IF the trailers come ungooked and the trailer equalizes to that seere angle the trailer might flip, but you will still be attached by two 7,000 pound shackles. My advcie, don't have a shorter chain but DO HAVE shackes that can accomodate for the sheer force of the weight of the trailer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force
Thanks for taking the time to try to get thru to me. I never studied strength of materials and my grasp of shear is rudimentary at best.
I've re-thought this after I realized that (obviously) the chains are crossed and to some degree meshed. One chain being somewhat longer probably doesn't matter.
Just ordered these. I hear they are a pain to install. Any tricks or hints on getting them installed?
They really aren't that hard to install. I put mine on in about 10 minutes.
Before trying to do it on the hitch, drive the pin part way through the collar in the center. Then use a vise and punch to pop it back out. This will help to open it up a bit. I also used a 3lb mini sledge to put the pin in. No need to swing it hard, but the extra weight makes it a bit easier.
Got the hammer locks installed. Now I don't need to worry if I am towing my trailer or my buddy's trailer. I did not want to have to buy 2 pair of clevis hooks. Patience is not a virtue of mine and I needed patience installing these. Overall about 15 minutes.
I really like the Hammerlock option, but don't like the idea of them hanging, dangling and rattling there when not towing. Found that some of my steel carabiners will work just fine and they won't need to reside there 24/7. These two are rated at only 3,500# each, but there are 11,000# units available HERE.
EDIT TO ADD: Went digging through my rigging bag later today and realized I have a dozen or so of the 50kN (11,000#) steel carabiners. Tossed a couple in with my hitch-'em-up stuff.
ANOTHER EDIT: Upon further examination of the two carabiners shown in the photo above, I found they were 50kN units, and the 3,500# rating applies only to cross- or side-loading the gate.
I bought a new Jayco travel trailer a few months ago. The trailer dealer put on some crappy 3000 lb quick links on my truck but the camper weighs 6800 lbs dry. I didn't feel the quick links were capable of the job and the 3/4' shackles I bought didn't fit. I just both these 5/8" links rated at 6500 lbs and they use a cotter pin to keep the pin in place.
Anything 1/2 inch in diameter or bigger will attach to the F 250 hitch but if your trailer has 5/16 inch hooks on the chains the hooks will barely slide on but the spring safety clip will not have the clearance to close. My 26 foot travel trailer has the 5/16 inch hooks on the chains. My travel trailer has a GVWR of 9,555 pounds. I ordered the 1/2 inch G80 hammerlock. I had to cut 1/4 inch off each of my safety chain hooks spring safety clip. The safety clips now spring complete closed with this mod. If I wind up having to tow something other than my travel trailer, I just hope it has bigger hooks. I will cross that bridge when I get to it. If the new Ram cantow 35,000 pounds can you imagine what size those safety chains and hooks look like?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
