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Which Shackles are you using?

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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 02:38 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by prometheus1351
... To be honest I was also considering you'd share the load between two shackles... Didn't realize chains were different lengths - is that standard?
I thought that even without kinks or twists or a failure while turning that you might get a ⅛" difference. The mounting points for the chain ends might not be symmetrical.

I'm only interested in how to think about this clearly and wanted to raise a question.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 02:58 PM
  #17  
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So if anyone decides to order the hammerlocks from autohaulersupply be sure and scroll down the page to get the combo deal with shipping. I had my window open in work mode and missed it. Saves about 6 bucks.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 03:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by minke
I thought that even without kinks or twists or a failure while turning that you might get a ⅛" difference. The mounting points for the chain ends might not be symmetrical.
I'm only interested in how to think about this clearly and wanted to raise a question.
For sure - I'm actually pretty interested in this myself now, too. I can only speak for my trailer but I think the connection of the chains to the trailer is my weakest link and would give way before my shackles did. If it didn't fail entirely I figure the connection to the trailer would yield enough to be able to rely on both shackles... Plus shackles **usually** have a 5 to 1 safety factor (can't say for sure if the ones I linked above fall into that category).

Going back to my mention about the impact force... If I assume a 1500 lb tongue weight falling 2 feet onto the chains and taking .1 second to go from a velocity of 11.35 ft/s to 0 ft/s I think there's only about 6800 lbs of impact force applied to the chains and shackles. That changes pretty drastically though if the assumed time to stop after the chains take up is shorter though (12,000 lbs if it's actually .05 seconds, for example).

Then again I'm definitely the wrong kind of engineer for this and I could be entirely wrong... If anyone knows better I'd be interested in knowing how to figure that out.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 05:58 PM
  #19  
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I just checked. My 7,500 pound trailer (loaded) came with handy coiling cables instead of chains, each stamped 7,500 pounds. The end that isn't part of the cable unit has a screw closure carabiner that is labeled "½ China". That is a lot of China. I hope it's enough!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 06:40 PM
  #20  
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10,000 lbs. blue ox from etrailer is what I use.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2019 | 07:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
A 5/8" shackle is what you want, and is what I use.
Is what I use too, they work great.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 12:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by minke
Some of the shackles suggested have load limits <7,000 pounds. Assume we are towing 10,000 pounds. Since one chain will be shorter than the other there will be 10,000 pounds on one shackle rated for 7,000 pounds.

Is there something I don't get?
The weight rating on them is the safe working load. Their breaking strength is usually 2-4 times that amount.

I'd rather my trailer break away from me and do its own thing (breakaway system to lock the brakes) rather than sent my truck into an uncontrolled fishtail and flip me over.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 12:27 PM
  #23  
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I used two 1/2" Grade 80 Hammerlocks
 
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Old Jan 27, 2019 | 08:50 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
I think I got mine from Northern Tool. Amazon/Ebay is always an option too...more options, black/zinc/chrome, etc...

Also, I would suggest tightening the pin with a pair of pliers. This will keep sticky fingers from easily stealing them in a parking lot.
I also used high strength loctite to prevent sticky fingers.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 04:17 PM
  #25  
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Northern Tool.




Enough for my 7x14 enclosed.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 05:13 PM
  #26  
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I went with the 1/2" hammer locks. Super easy to install and rated for 12,000 lbs each.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
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I simply use 3/8" G70 grade hooks on my chains (chains also 3/8" G70). and have no issue with the hooks fitting the hitch. Yes, I have the 3" receiver. You can buy these hooks at just about any hardware store for less than $10 each and a simple cotter pin and done. Just my $.02 worth
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 11:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dockmaster1
I simply use 3/8" G70 grade hooks on my chains (chains also 3/8" G70). and have no issue with the hooks fitting the hitch. Yes, I have the 3" receiver. You can buy these hooks at just about any hardware store for less than $10 each and a simple cotter pin and done. Just my $.02 worth
What year is your truck? Seems Ford changed to a different hitch style in 2018. I have the hook you mentioned and there is no way they will fit my hitch.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 11:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Sprinklerdude
What year is your truck? Seems Ford changed to a different hitch style in 2018. I have the hook you mentioned and there is no way they will fit my hitch.
Mine is a 2017. I didn't think they made changes but perhaps they did. I know some were complaining about this when the 2017's came out but I figured they were just using much smaller hooks. I do agree that Ford could have designed this better and made it easier to hook the chains on.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Dockmaster1
Mine is a 2017. I didn't think they made changes but perhaps they did. I know some were complaining about this when the 2017's came out but I figured they were just using much smaller hooks. I do agree that Ford could have designed this better and made it easier to hook the chains on.
I have been known turn a wrench the wrong way a few times after a beer or two. I am going to try again.
 
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