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2007 F350 150k
Truck has been running great.
Ran the truck today, came home shut it down. Battery voltage was 13volts. Went inside and came out 20 min's later, started the truck up and no lights came on. Battery voltage was 7.4 volts.
Put the charger on it for an hour and started the truck. System was charging at 12.6 volts and going higher. Drove to Home Depot came out and started it. Battery volts back down to 7.4 lights turned back of. Reved it up and got 12.1 volts. Engine Wrench light came on, truck stuttered all the way home.
Is this a voltage problem I'm assuming?
Batteries and Alternator were replace within the past 6 months.
Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated. thanks
My routine is engine off connect, and last connect to the other vehicle. Start my vehicle and let run for 10 minutes, which hopefully gets some energy into the other vehicles battery. Shut my engine off so any surge does not affect my alternator and let the other vehicle start. If it does not start immediately, I call no joy and pull the cables. There's no reason to risk my electrics for other vehicles starting issue not related to a bad battery.
Almost 50 years ago I learned the problems of damaging an alternator helping someone.
I got to watch my father helping someone, then having to have a new alternator put in his pickup truck at a time when he couldn't afford that.
The wrench light was probably the PCM programming warning that voltages below 9.2 burn out FICMs.
Since the batteries aren't that old, one wouldn't think they would be low on electrolyte, but it wouldn't hurt to do that basic check. A hot summer can move those levels down. Also, have you made frequent short trips? Multiple consecutive short trips will take 6.0 batteries down. The alternator alone isn't enough to keep up with that. The problem may well be a bad alternator, but I'd verify the electrolyte levels and then put the batteries on a trickle charger for at least 24 hours or until the indicator (if you have a smart charger) shows the batteries are at full charge. One of my best purchases for the 6.0 is a cheap BatteryMINDer.
Something like that is by far the best but just for the record,it can be done from vehicle to vehicle,,,,,,,,if you know what you are doing and be extremlly carful while you are doing it. #1. Tell everyone to stay in their cars or stand 40 feet from vehicles while hoods are up. #2. Whatever you do,avoid getting + & - in contact (short circuit) even momentarily. I usually snap - clamp of booster to a plastic or insulated object near dead battery. Both + clamps are connected next then final - moved from it's insulated spot to - post of dead battery. So far so good but wait,you must be just as vigilent while removing cables. A large % of systems are shorted while removing cables because,they unclamp 1st cable from dead battery then hold it in left hand while 2nd cable is disconnected,,,,,THEN,,,,,2nd cable is passed to left hand where it short's against apposing cable that was already in hand. POP there go's your alternator. Other times cables are disconnected and thrown underfoot or dragged against vehicle where they make contact.
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