Batteries Keep going dead WT Hell?
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Batteries Keep going dead WT Hell?
Here's a little history:
The alternator went bad about a month ago so I replaced it with a brand new one and replaced serpentine belt at the same time.
About a week later wife tells me battery light coming on again intermittently? I checked the wires one was loose so I tightened it. Motor started right up we went to the grocery store and sure enough would not start when we tried to leave - got a jump to get it and our groceries home - Checked the wires/connections again, checked the voltage and had between 13-14volts from alt. and 12 on the batteries when i shut it off. Went out about an hour later started right up?
The next morning dead again?? Pulled the batteries took them to Oriellys both tested bad so I replaced them.
No problems for a couple of days now wife just called and said the battery light is coming on again??
I can't figure out what the heck is going on??
It has a remote start/Alarm system on it could that be causing problems??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
JB
The alternator went bad about a month ago so I replaced it with a brand new one and replaced serpentine belt at the same time.
About a week later wife tells me battery light coming on again intermittently? I checked the wires one was loose so I tightened it. Motor started right up we went to the grocery store and sure enough would not start when we tried to leave - got a jump to get it and our groceries home - Checked the wires/connections again, checked the voltage and had between 13-14volts from alt. and 12 on the batteries when i shut it off. Went out about an hour later started right up?
The next morning dead again?? Pulled the batteries took them to Oriellys both tested bad so I replaced them.
No problems for a couple of days now wife just called and said the battery light is coming on again??
I can't figure out what the heck is going on??
It has a remote start/Alarm system on it could that be causing problems??
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
JB
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
I'd say you still have a bad alternator. Take it back and get another one. Most likely, it was a rebuilt.
You can also check your voltage regulator. Start your engine. While in idle, check the voltage. Then, have someone rev it up to 2K rpm. Voltage should be somewhat stable, give and take +/- 0.2 V.
You can also check your voltage regulator. Start your engine. While in idle, check the voltage. Then, have someone rev it up to 2K rpm. Voltage should be somewhat stable, give and take +/- 0.2 V.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Washington State
Per jh818, I agree that you need to test your alternator again (voltage regulator should be built in) especially if when idling it isn't showing above 12V at the main battery terminal.
You can also hook the meter between the positive post and the disconnected positive cable to the main battery to determine how much draw there is on the system while the ignition & engine are off. It should be in the MILLIamp range. (I don't know the exact number)
Here is a simple tutorial.
Battery Drain Parasitic Draw Testing
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Bring your truck back to O'Reilly's and have them do an alternator check. They have a tester that will check in on your vehicle.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
Use the ohm meter to test the connection between the positive battery terminal and the hot wire of the alternator. Maybe you have a bad connection if you're getting 13V at the alternator and 12V at the battery when idling.
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Sit. Stay.
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That'd be true if it were confirmed that is how he tested. I asked about it but didn't get a response...
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Monsta. I was getting 13-14volts with it running @ idle. and about 12.5 on the batteries with it shut down.
So here is the latest...I had a family function yesterday so I didn't get to mess with it at all. I had to be in to work this morning by 6 a.m. I go to get in my truck and sure enough I locked the damn keys in it...(Please don't ask about the spare set I have teenage kids)
So being I was already running late I grab the X keys....She fired right up and I drove it to work(about 20 miles). On the way the battery light kept coming on but it was more flickering on and off rather the staying on and it didn't matter what RPM range I was at it would continue. I also noticed that the headlights were flickering as well??
So here is the latest...I had a family function yesterday so I didn't get to mess with it at all. I had to be in to work this morning by 6 a.m. I go to get in my truck and sure enough I locked the damn keys in it...(Please don't ask about the spare set I have teenage kids
)So being I was already running late I grab the X keys....She fired right up and I drove it to work(about 20 miles). On the way the battery light kept coming on but it was more flickering on and off rather the staying on and it didn't matter what RPM range I was at it would continue. I also noticed that the headlights were flickering as well??
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
What you're describing was the same exact thing that happened with me before. The battery light would flicker on and off at highway speeds, so it was impossible for me to check the alternator when it was failing.
I changed my alternator and now it's all fixed.
I would suggest you exchange your alternator.
I changed my alternator and now it's all fixed.
I would suggest you exchange your alternator.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Washington State
If you measured that at the battery when running them it sounds like it is charging.
If you are not getting it at the battery when running PLUS the battery light is on PLUS the flickering, that could point to a bad cable/connection.
So to reiterate, you need to check all the grounds, OHM test the cables and lastly take the alternator somewhere to have it bench tested.
I would always lock the keys in the truck.
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Thanks Monsta, I got that 13-14 at the batteries while running. tomorrow when I get home I'm going to pull it up on te ramps and tighten anything that looks like a ground or any other type of connection if that doesn't work then I guess it would have to be the alternator
Thanks again to everyone.
Thanks again to everyone.
Sit. Stay.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 18,308
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From: Washington State
I forgot to add that once you know all the connections are good, the cables are good and the alternator is okay and you still have a drain on the batteries, that's when you need to do the parasitic drain test.