Torque specs for ball joints
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Torque specs for ball joints
I am in the process of installing new ball joints on my 1990 F250 7.3. I purchased Mevotech ball joints and I am wondering what I should torque the upper and lower ball joints at and if I need to torque them in a particular order. I don’t want the knuckle and the axle to bind on the ball joint stud causing memory wheel. I went to the Mevotech website but there wasn’t any information on it.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Janesville
I would be inclined to follow what Moog recommends if there is a lack of technical info from Mevotech
https://fme-cat.com/livedocs/DYK12_101_ENG-R.pdf
https://fme-cat.com/livedocs/DYK12_101_ENG-R.pdf
5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2021
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I'm keeping an eye on this thread as I have the same issue after replacing ball joints. It drives "wonky" now. ugh! It used to drive great.
After all new bal joints, I discovered the new upper ball joint on the passenger side was dorked-up from the install or it was bad out of the box. I installed new upper and lowers on the passenger a second time and it did seem to be a little better or it's in my head. I haven't checked the driver side for a bad new ball joint yet, I'm doing that this week.
I think there's a good chance my issue is caster/camber since I also installed new Moog caster/camber bushings. I dread paying for an alignment since I don't know of any shops in my area that I can trust to spend the necessary time to get it 100%.
The hubs are stiff when moving back and forth, but they move without any catching and move with moderate pressure.
I also puked out power steering fluid when I was moving the steering without the pump on.
After all new bal joints, I discovered the new upper ball joint on the passenger side was dorked-up from the install or it was bad out of the box. I installed new upper and lowers on the passenger a second time and it did seem to be a little better or it's in my head. I haven't checked the driver side for a bad new ball joint yet, I'm doing that this week.
I think there's a good chance my issue is caster/camber since I also installed new Moog caster/camber bushings. I dread paying for an alignment since I don't know of any shops in my area that I can trust to spend the necessary time to get it 100%.
The hubs are stiff when moving back and forth, but they move without any catching and move with moderate pressure.
I also puked out power steering fluid when I was moving the steering without the pump on.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,519
Likes: 224
From: Nevada
You can keep an eye on this thread, but it is from 2019.
Might be good to start your own thread to get help,
and link this tread to your thread you are having same issues.
yeah w/o the PS Lines connected, you will have fluid squirting
out when moving wheels back and forth.
I have King Pins, so no experience with Ball Joints.
Charlie
Might be good to start your own thread to get help,
and link this tread to your thread you are having same issues.
yeah w/o the PS Lines connected, you will have fluid squirting
out when moving wheels back and forth.
I have King Pins, so no experience with Ball Joints.
Charlie
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Western Mass
Can you describe what you mean by "wonky"...?
New ball joints should provide resistance when moving the hub by hand, that is normal. If you installed the bushings in a different position then the other ones, it would change the caster and/or camber which would affect the driving.
Charmulu had the right idea on the power steering, but not quite. Anytime you turn the turn the steering wheel, or move the wheels, it pushes fluid back to the power steering reservoir. If the pump isn't turning to suck the fluid and push it back to the steering gear, it will overfill the reservoir and squirt out. So the puking is "normal" if the pump isn't turning.
New ball joints should provide resistance when moving the hub by hand, that is normal. If you installed the bushings in a different position then the other ones, it would change the caster and/or camber which would affect the driving.
Charmulu had the right idea on the power steering, but not quite. Anytime you turn the turn the steering wheel, or move the wheels, it pushes fluid back to the power steering reservoir. If the pump isn't turning to suck the fluid and push it back to the steering gear, it will overfill the reservoir and squirt out. So the puking is "normal" if the pump isn't turning.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 25
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Before I replaced the passenger side ball joints a second time it had what I believe was memory steer. I felt like I was constantly making steering adjustments and over correcting. After fixing the passenger side the need to constantly correct steering improved, but I still feel like it's just not right. I find that I still over correct at times and it just seems to need to be steered even when I'm driving on a straight road. Hopefully, that makes sense.
I'm sure the bushings are in a different position.
I'm sure the bushings are in a different position.
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Joined: Sep 2021
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I remember reading that most DIY guys over tighten the wheel bearing castle nut. The article went on to say it’s better to be on the looser side of snug. After all there is a cotter pin that keeps the nut from spinning off regardless of how tight you make it. Maybe just try backing off the castle nut 1/4 turn soo if it makes a big difference
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