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I just noticed all of your replies now, not sure how i missed all of them!!
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Welcome to the NC chapter where the fun is!
As for how the plugs looked they did not look worn or carbon up but did look like the motor is running rich.
This could be from a few things. Choke not opening all the way and that could be from motor not running long enough or not adjusted right.
Carb could also be flooding over from a float level being to high or the motor idling along time and the idle mix not set right.
What did the air filter look like? If real dirty that could make it run rich.
I don't think I would pull the pita plugs to adjust the gap at this time unless something is not right after everything else is done.
Once you get to put some miles on it pull a few easy plugs just to see what they look like, should be a light gray / tan color if everything is dialed in right.
Good luck
Dave ----
Interestingly, I did notice that the choke did not seem to open up all the way - but i need to verify again once i am done with the plugs. The air filter did look dirty, but not so much that it seemed to restrict airflow a lot.
And ok thank you - I'll leave the plugs in, for now, and recheck them after a while!
As for the dinner on Thursday, I am looking forward to seeing all of you! Hope you can make it, Dave!
I finally managed to get all the spark plugs in and the beast back together. I don't really know how to post a video here, so I uploaded this one to youtube... let me know what you think about it and also what would you guys do next? should I rebuild the carb or go vacuum leak huntin'? Looks like the weekend will be rainy - so maybe start on that carb
i would chase the vacuum leak first... may find it fixes whatever issue your having with the carb... then if you still have problems you can rebuild the carb... or do both... lol
Are you talking about the sound it's making when you blip the throttle?
If you hold the choke open and blip the throttle, do you still hear it?
@fuzzy1626 Yes, it's still there even if I push the throttle.
Today, I was about to start looking for vacuum leaks, when I noticed that when I keep the choke manually open and push the throttle - the idle will come down. BUT, when I push the throttle again, the choke closes up again - and the idle runs high. Looks like the choke needs to be adjusted but I don't know how yet. Any pointers?? @FuzzFace2
@fuzzy1626 Yes, it's still there even if I push the throttle.
Today, I was about to start looking for vacuum leaks, when I noticed that when I keep the choke manually open and push the throttle - the idle will come down. BUT, when I push the throttle again, the choke closes up again - and the idle runs high. Looks like the choke needs to be adjusted but I don't know how yet. Any pointers?? @FuzzFace2
id get rid of that troublesome carb and put an Edlebrock on it and call it good. The only OEM carbs I’ve ever liked were the Chevy Quadra jet and the Chrysler thermoquad. Even the holleys are a pain sometimes.
The motor craft 2100 is a great carb. There are a few things that you have to check. I still think a carb rebuild will do you some good. I’d start there. The one thing that I know of that trashed those carbs. Is the idle screw. If someone’s has tightened it to much, it will push against the back of the hole and mushroom it out, so it doesn’t seat correctly anymore. Check everything to the choke as well while you are taking it apart.
Last edited by Benztechnc; Jan 21, 2019 at 06:23 AM.
Reason: spelling
ok - yeah I think I will take the carb off and go over it. - Just watched a couple of videos on youtube on adjusting them, still trying to understand why the choke keeps closing
Sooo, I haven't had time to take the carb off, but I have been looking extensively for vacuum leaks and then devoted my attention to the choke. I reduced the tension on the spring so that the choke will open earlier and that seems to have cured the problem. The idle seems to be normal now...
The engine is still missing a beat from time to time so I was going to replace the coil next and also got myself a timing gun and was going to check the timing.
I've been driving the truck some and noticed some growling/howling noise when the engine is under load and driving. Goes away when you step off the gas and reappears when you step back on it... My suspicion is that it might be the transmission or the transfer case... Not yet sure how to deal with that, to be honest.
Sooo, I haven't had time to take the carb off, but I have been looking extensively for vacuum leaks and then devoted my attention to the choke. I reduced the tension on the spring so that the choke will open earlier and that seems to have cured the problem. The idle seems to be normal now...
The engine is still missing a beat from time to time so I was going to replace the coil next and also got myself a timing gun and was going to check the timing.
I've been driving the truck some and noticed some growling/howling noise when the engine is under load and driving. Goes away when you step off the gas and reappears when you step back on it... My suspicion is that it might be the transmission or the transfer case... Not yet sure how to deal with that, to be honest.
Been a bit since I been in here because of work hours.
On the noise I would check the lube level in the trany, transfer case and the front & rear axles. I can tell you running them low on lube is a sure way to kill them.
Now that may not stop the noise but you have to start some where.
When on & off the power the gears in all the above units move a different direction and load the bearings differently so a bad bearing could be the cause. The next step and not an easy one is to find what unit is the cause so you can dig deeper.
Dave ----
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