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Chasing vacuum lines is one of those things. Just go ahead and assume you need to replace all of them. Great thing to do when you rebuild that carb. A carb rebuild kit would be next on my list after plugs\wire\cap\rotor. They are fairly cheap, and once you've gone through one, most aren't that difficult. I do splurge on a bucket of Berryman's when I do carb's to soak items in, and take lots of pictures if it's your first one. Also, a tub or bin or something to take it apart in, so that all those little parts don't go flying around the shop (or across the dining table, as that is my preferred spot to do carb rebuilds).
That looks like a really straight truck, body wise.
Yesterday, I managed to get the last plug out that was the most difficult to access!!! I have yet to take a picture of all plugs side by side, but they seemed to look all equally bad and i am not sure whether that is a somewhat a good sign and i could assume that compression is still good...
With regards to vacuum lines and rebuilding the carb, i think you are just soo right... I have not done a carb rebuilt before (except for small two stroke motorcycles) but it looks like this one really needs one:
bad was the wrong word, i just meant to say that they all seem equally worn....
Oh I gotcha. Yeah, that one doesn't look to bad in the picture. The electrodes aren't particularly worn, and I don't see any carbon tracking. How is it running with the new plugs in it? You should definately get it out to the dinner next week, maybe throw in a screwdriver or two in the glove box. Vintage John may make it, and I am sure he is a whiz with carbs. Might be able to convince him to take a look and provide some ideas\suggestions on getting it to run smoothly.
So... i haven't actually completed the job yet due to other obligations and weather, but hope to get it done before the dinner... not sure if I am adventurous to drive it that far yet though . Also, I realized that I have set the gap to 0.044 (according to the guy from adv auto parts) while the sticker on the motor clearly says 0.048. Not sure how significant it will be, but my thinking is that a wider gap would produce a bigger spark and would make the combustion closer to complete than a smaller spark.... if that makes any sense....
Need to get some silicon grease to get the boots properly on the plugs too
While i havent been wrenching much, i did receive something in the mail yesterday :-)
Yep easier to create spark, but if you are going back stock, I’d adjust them out just a hair. A key ring tool would do that they should only be a couple of bucks at the store.
As for how the plugs looked they did not look worn or carbon up but did look like the motor is running rich.
This could be from a few things. Choke not opening all the way and that could be from motor not running long enough or not adjusted right.
Carb could also be flooding over from a float level being to high or the motor idling along time and the idle mix not set right.
What did the air filter look like? If real dirty that could make it run rich.
I don't think I would pull the pita plugs to adjust the gap at this time unless something is not right after everything else is done.
Once you get to put some miles on it pull a few easy plugs just to see what they look like, should be a light gray / tan color if everything is dialed in right.
Good luck
Dave ----
Oh when checking for vacuum leaks look over that metal juice can on the inner fender well.
I just repaired (fiber glass rosin) the one for my truck as it had pin holes on the bottom.
I found it because the HVAC system doors did not work and traced it to the can.
Dave ----
its certainly more active than the VA chapter was... no matter what i did i just couldnt generate enough activity in there to make it worth my time anymore...
Need to get some silicon grease to get the boots properly on the plugs too
Just noticed this. I use WD-40 to grease up the spark plug boots, and a little touch of anti-seize on spark plug threads. I'm sure the AZ guy tried to sell you a little squeeze packet of the stuff.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Welcome to the NC chapter where the fun is!
As for how the plugs looked they did not look worn or carbon up but did look like the motor is running rich.
This could be from a few things. Choke not opening all the way and that could be from motor not running long enough or not adjusted right.
Carb could also be flooding over from a float level being to high or the motor idling along time and the idle mix not set right.
What did the air filter look like? If real dirty that could make it run rich.
I don't think I would pull the pita plugs to adjust the gap at this time unless something is not right after everything else is done.
Once you get to put some miles on it pull a few easy plugs just to see what they look like, should be a light gray / tan color if everything is dialed in right.
Good luck
Dave ----
Dave is more experienced and knowledgeable about carb'd engine's than I am. I defer to him and his knowledge on this.
Originally Posted by Sparky83
its certainly more active than the VA chapter was... no matter what i did i just couldnt generate enough activity in there to make it worth my time anymore...
We are trying to make it a comfy cozy place for all to come and chat. We are doing monthly (or trying to) dinners, and yearly trips out to state parks. Currently our trips to state parks have only included a bi-annual trip to Uwharrie however I am open to any ideas.
Oh and as for the dinner, we don't care if you show up in a Honda, moped, or truck. It's the camaraderie, the food and of course, the stories that get us all together.
its certainly more active than the VA chapter was... no matter what i did i just couldnt generate enough activity in there to make it worth my time anymore...
Maybe there was something in the water out there that caused that
Originally Posted by Benztechnc
Just noticed this. I use WD-40 to grease up the spark plug boots, and a little touch of anti-seize on spark plug threads. I'm sure the AZ guy tried to sell you a little squeeze packet of the stuff. The only thing I would watch out for when using grease / oil type products for plug wire boots is it conducting that high voltage down the outside of the plug to ground.
Remember electricity tries to find the easiest path to ground.
Dave is more experienced and knowledgeable about carb'd engine's than I am. I defer to him and his knowledge on this. I think I play a pretty good game that I know what I am doing thanks. My school training was on cars & trucks that had carbs and it was just as electronic IGN. was coming out so did not get to play with that too much. But I would say most of my carb tuning is with Holley's on my race trucks (4x4's) and drag car. But just like a motor is a motor be it a 4 or a v8 a carb is a carb and they all work the same way.
We are trying to make it a comfy cozy place for all to come and chat. We are doing monthly (or trying to) dinners, and yearly trips out to state parks. Currently our trips to state parks have only included a bi-annual trip to Uwharrie however I am open to any ideas.
Oh and as for the dinner, we don't care if you show up in a Honda, moped, or truck. It's the camaraderie, the food and of course, the stories that get us all together.
The dinner in Smithfield is just up the street from me but my work hours make it hard to make them during the week. Now that I am on LP gas (propane) I am up at 2am and out the door by 3am so bed is around 8pm.
Then again if I get done early I take a nap, hang out with you guys & gals and go back in to work as long as I am off for 10 hours as per DOT.
See you guys got me thinking all crazy like
Dave ----
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I have yet to take a picture of all plugs side by side, but they seemed to look all equally bad and i am not sure whether that is a somewhat a good sign and i could assume that compression is still good...
. Also, I realized that I have set the gap to 0.044 (according to the guy from adv auto parts) while the sticker on the motor clearly says 0.048. Not sure how significant it will be, but my thinking is that a wider gap would produce a bigger spark and would make the combustion closer to complete than a smaller spark.... if that makes any sense....
