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Hello everyone. I am new to the forum. I recently started reviving a 62 f350 that was left in the barn of the property I purchased. At this point I have made some progress but I am having trouble with the fuel and temp gauges. The manual says the constant Voltage Regulator must fluctuate between 0-10. Mine remains steady at 12. Does it have to fluctuate? The fuel gauge will have to be replaced the bi-metal has burned in two. The temp goes straight to hot when the key is cut on. I think this would indicate a grounded circuit but i have ran new wire and still have the same issue. I have included a picture of the back of the gauge cluster does anyone know what the coil is on the voltage regulator? Does it knock the voltage down? Would a bad gauge cause this problem?
Nice truck. Love the patina!! I'm OK with basic electrical issues, I've never dealt with gauges. I'm sure somone will be along to help with that. Did you change tires? Looks like good tread on em.
I put new tires and tubes on it. I found a localish tire store that would install them. Future plans may include new rims or new axles. What did you do for your tires?
Your CVR needs to be replaced or you stand the chance of burning out the gauges. That thing, I assume, is someones attempt to drop the voltage. You can buy a new one from DC or one of the other parts places. Hope your gauges aren't already fried.
Thanks for the help. I have ordered a new cvr. The fuel gauge is trash but I hope to salvage the temp gauge. With 3 volts it reads im the middle of the gauge. Do you know what voltage the cvr puts out? Is it 6?
The ICVR has a bi-metal spring in it that breaks contact when it heats up. By applying 12 V to it the bi-metal spring heats up and breaks contact at about 10V output, then it swings back toward zero. Once the metal contact is broken then it quickly cools back down again and makes contact - beginning to heat up again until it breaks contact. So, it fluctuates rapidly between zero and 10 volts, averaging roughly 5 volts to the gauges.
The newer solid state ICVRs put out a constant 5 volts and no bi-metal spring inside to go bad.
One other thing to note - you can't tell much by hooking up a digital VOM to the regulator. The voltage fluctuates so fast the digital meter will be in constant seek mode. To see the movements of the ICVR a person can use an older analog VOM with a needle. The needle is able to move back and forth quickly enough to visually display the fluctuations.
And people thought there was no use for the old analog VOMs any longer.
Analog voltmeters have their uses with primitive electronics and are plenty accurate enough for automotive use. 3 significant digits just ain't necessary. If using points ignition or generator they are optimum for testing and the voltages in the service manuals were made using analog equipment.
Looks to me like that bobbin lookin' deal on the ICVR is a choke or somesuch, connected in series to suppress radio noise as described in the manual. Get a popping noise in radio or CB otherwise.
Just a couple things.
1) If this were MY truck, I'd get a title BEFORE I did anything on it. Until you possess a title in your name, the truck is subject to repossession.
2) Early Honda GoldWings (all 1000 and 1100 save Aspencade, [which I own]) also used a CVR, though Honda say theirs is 7 volt. Still might be worth looking into.
12-26-2018, 03:47 PM
