Ignition condenser question
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Elder User
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Ignition condenser question
Hello all. I've got this 68 f250. Hasn't ran in years. I had some other posts on here about it....my new question is...I replaced the coil but above the coil is a condenser. I replaced that as well since I still wasnt getting any spark...I hooked it to the negative terminal on the coil...I took off cap of dist..and noticed a condenser in there by the points. So why is there 2? Was the on up top by the ignition coil added by previous owner? Can I junk the one by the ignition coil and just replace the one in the distributor? Forgive me. I'm new to older engines
by the way I'm not getting any spark due to old worn out points. At least that's what I'm hoping. I've changed everything else
by the way I'm not getting any spark due to old worn out points. At least that's what I'm hoping. I've changed everything else
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
The external condenser is a radio noise suppression type. Older ignition systems would "transmit" RFI, this is why solid core spark plug wires went away, and resistor spark plugs were invented. Really old trucks were pretty bad, they would interefere with television reception when they drove by. The noise suppression capacitors were also used on generators and alternators, voltage regulators etc.
Anyway, remove the external suppression capacitor for test purposes. If it were defective, and by now it might well be, it would ground out the coil. I think they are supposed to be connected to the pos + side of the coil. If it's connected to the Neg - side of the coil, it is in the ignition circuit same as the one inside the distributor. I think.
Try filing the points carefully. They get a super tenacious crud on them after a year or two. Check for continuity when closed between point arm and ground.
Anyway, remove the external suppression capacitor for test purposes. If it were defective, and by now it might well be, it would ground out the coil. I think they are supposed to be connected to the pos + side of the coil. If it's connected to the Neg - side of the coil, it is in the ignition circuit same as the one inside the distributor. I think.
Try filing the points carefully. They get a super tenacious crud on them after a year or two. Check for continuity when closed between point arm and ground.
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The external condenser hooks to negative terminal on the ignition coil correct? Is it still really needed besides radio noise?
I have new points I'm about to replace them in a few mins. I'm going to convert to electric ignition eventually but for now I just want to hear her run
I have new points I'm about to replace them in a few mins. I'm going to convert to electric ignition eventually but for now I just want to hear her run
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yeah, I'm prone to editing. Mistakes or omissions are only visible after posting ha ha.
Yes, get rid of the external capacitor/condenser for now. Keep in mind the shiny new ignition condensers are junk, I would consider the one inside the distributor right now like as not better than what is sold today mostly. If the condenser is bad it will not run. The points sold today aren't much better. Check for a bright blue spark from the coil wire held near the cylinder head, maybe 3/8" away from a bolt or whatever.
Yes, get rid of the external capacitor/condenser for now. Keep in mind the shiny new ignition condensers are junk, I would consider the one inside the distributor right now like as not better than what is sold today mostly. If the condenser is bad it will not run. The points sold today aren't much better. Check for a bright blue spark from the coil wire held near the cylinder head, maybe 3/8" away from a bolt or whatever.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Clean up the battery ground on the block, and gravity feed gas direct to carb from a boat tank or something like that, the tank is likely full of sludge and rust. Maybe squirt some Marvel's in the cylinders to help free the rings. Charge up the battery good. If compression is reasonable and spark is hot it will start.
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Elder User
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Do you happen to know the gap set for points?
I have a new battery I change the oil twice. Put a few drops into each cylinder and rotated by hand. Also new plugs and wires.
I'm using a Jerry can for fuel I'm sure the gas tank is trashed
I have a new battery I change the oil twice. Put a few drops into each cylinder and rotated by hand. Also new plugs and wires.
I'm using a Jerry can for fuel I'm sure the gas tank is trashed
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
.17 gap , 17-21 dwell, 10-12 BTDC. The only wire connected to the negative side of the coil will be the single wire coming out of the distributor. The other one is for the radio and goes to the positive side of the coil.
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Thanks for the info. I got it all setup and replaced the points and condenser. However I forgot my feeler gauges so I just eyeballed it for now..at first still no spark. Then made slight adjustments and she lives! I'm not getting any fuel from my Jerry can. I'm assuming the fuel pump is dead. But I did get her to run for about 30 seconds...no noises...also did a compression test. 1 thru 4 were at 120psi.
number 5 was at 130 maybe 135
6 and 7 were 120
number 8 was 130
my gauge is junk so I'm not to concerned about the numbers being off some. Better than I was expecting tho.
number 5 was at 130 maybe 135
6 and 7 were 120
number 8 was 130
my gauge is junk so I'm not to concerned about the numbers being off some. Better than I was expecting tho.
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I looked up some other fe compression numbers and I seem to be in the mix. I'm not sure what a standard psi is for this engine. But I'm happy. Not bad for a original engine that hasn't ran years. Now to work on fuel system
Rabbit-Hole Researcher
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
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From: Middle of Ohio
If your condenser is shorted out inside, it will completely kill the engine. But, it can hold a little, then break down inside as the voltage comes up, creating a useless or very poor spark. It is temperature sensitive, so it can get worse when the engine warms up.
I believe JEFFFAFA said Ford still makes/sells a good-quality new condenser. ( ? )
Those are some of the reasons we are switching to the Pertronics Ignitor points replacement modules.
I believe JEFFFAFA said Ford still makes/sells a good-quality new condenser. ( ? )
Those are some of the reasons we are switching to the Pertronics Ignitor points replacement modules.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
Here are some part numbers that I think you may need:FUEL PUMP FILTER:C4AZ9365B (FG1A MOTORCRAFT) Napa part # 3271 , Fram part # cg20D0AZ-9J549-C .. Choke Pull-Off Diaphragm (Motorcraft CM-1283)CARB KIT: The Ford Motorcraft carb kit for a 2100 2V carb is part number D4AZ9A586A. It doesn't come with the D0AZ9J549C choke pull off diaphragm though. Which is discontinuedPoints........B8Q12171A (DP12) Available from Ford.
Condenser..C9AZ12300A (DC13A) Available from Ford. B7A-12106-A .. Distributor Cap (Motorcraft DH-6).
B7A-12200-A .. Rotor (Motorcraft DR-5).
Condenser..C9AZ12300A (DC13A) Available from Ford. B7A-12106-A .. Distributor Cap (Motorcraft DH-6).
B7A-12200-A .. Rotor (Motorcraft DR-5).