Ignition condenser question
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,295
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From: Southern CA
Are the condensers and points from Ford any better than the junk on the after market? I really would like to replace my P&C in my 1971 F250 300 4.9L but I don't know were to buy some good quality units. Help please.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Then you don't have to lean over the fender and mess with points again.
Dave ----
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I'd agree with that, though some people for whatever reason want to retain P&C. In that case it's important to use good quality ignition parts. NOS Motorcraft and Standard, Echlin contact points are plentiful and inexpensive on that auction site. They are probably better materials than anything made today.
The condensers are available NOS too, but they should be tested at high voltage for leakage and insulation resistance on a real condenser tester. A modern cap checker won't do this. When condensers get old, they may not work right anymore, even after just sitting on the shelf. Buy up a few of the modern Motorcraft condensers, should be a lifetime supply.
The condensers are available NOS too, but they should be tested at high voltage for leakage and insulation resistance on a real condenser tester. A modern cap checker won't do this. When condensers get old, they may not work right anymore, even after just sitting on the shelf. Buy up a few of the modern Motorcraft condensers, should be a lifetime supply.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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Not to change subjects but I removed my fuel tank from the cab.... dry as a bone but many rust flakes came out...also found 1 quarter size hole...I started to remove the other tank under the bend and noticed it's been replaced already and it's not a steel tank. However i need heat to remove a bolt for the strap. But i do need to drain that tank and clean it out due to old fuel which is probably sludge.
on the tank from the cab...I'm going to use the muriatic acid trick to remove the rust then I'm going to add a sealant. But for the rust hole. Obviously cut it out and weld new steel in. However I'm no welder. So I guess it's a way to learn. But of course practice on other steel first
on the tank from the cab...I'm going to use the muriatic acid trick to remove the rust then I'm going to add a sealant. But for the rust hole. Obviously cut it out and weld new steel in. However I'm no welder. So I guess it's a way to learn. But of course practice on other steel first
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
on the tank from the cab...I'm going to use the muriatic acid trick to remove the rust then I'm going to add a sealant. But for the rust hole. Obviously cut it out and weld new steel in. However I'm no welder. So I guess it's a way to learn. But of course practice on other steel first
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
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Likes: 0
I looked up new tank for the cab...from lmc... found 2 options..one with a evap emission system and other without. How do I know which I have?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
I'll say this much, you couldn't pay me enough to weld on an old tank, no matter how long it's been without fuel. I guess there's ways to do it safely, but it's not worth the hassle to me. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do, but... I still have an in-cab tank in the garage that needs to go bye-bye. No leaks but I think the pick up tube has a pinhole. Very clean inside. Yours if you haul it away.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
In '68 Evaporative Emission was (maybe) a California only thing, but I dunno for sure. As a practical matter look and see what you have now, there will be a carbon canister and the rest of it, I expect, if that's what you have.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I'll say this much, you couldn't pay me enough to weld on an old tank, no matter how long it's been without fuel. I guess there's ways to do it safely, but it's not worth the hassle to me. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do, but... I still have an in-cab tank in the garage that needs to go bye-bye. No leaks but I think the pick up tube has a pinhole. Very clean inside. Yours if you haul it away.
You want to wash it out a bunch of times with hot water & soap and when you have done that wash it out a bunch of times more.
Then blow air thru it for 12 to 24 hours, use a shop vac blower side.
Then when you are ready to weld fill it with water to remove most of the air in the tank that may have fumes.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,295
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From: Southern CA
Second the comment on welding on fuel tanks, not a smart move. Years ago a buddy that owned a muffler shop in town was welding on a gas tank that had been cleaned and the explosion took out one interior wall in his shop and he had major burns to his face, neck & arms. I have cleaned a few tanks inside and fiber glassed the outside sense the 60's with some good results, knock on wood!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 4,093
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From: Lind, WA- Eastern WA
I used some tank sealer that I bought from a motorcycle shop, on my dad's Ford 8N Tractor leaking gas tank. That was back in the early 70's. The bottom half of the tank totally rusted away, but the white epoxy is still there and still no leaks.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,295
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From: Southern CA
Now back to the point & condenser threat subject. I plan on converting over to pertronix in a few months, but until then I would like to have good quality P&C parts in my distributor and as a backup for the pertronix later.
Can you order "Motorcraft" points & condenser on line or do you have to pick them up at a Ford dealer parts?
Can you order "Motorcraft" points & condenser on line or do you have to pick them up at a Ford dealer parts?