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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

New distributor install advice needed!

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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 01:27 PM
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Stephen Kovalcik's Avatar
Stephen Kovalcik
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New distributor install advice needed!

Hello everyone! This is my first post here, and I apologize if I missed this somewhere, but I have searched all the threads and used the search tools, and I have had zero luck finding what I need. So, I apologize if this has been covered already (as I imagine it has been), but I'm struggling to find the solution! I have a 1994 E-150 with the 5.8 in it. Like an idiot, I pulled the distributor to replace it with a new one and I did not mark a singe darn thing. I have found 10 BTDC and set that on the crank pulley twice, with cyl #1 inline and have had no luck getting my van to start again. I know my plugs are in the right order, unless I just wired them backwards? Does anyone know where I can find a tutorial for starting fresh when installing a whole new distributor? Also, the firing order wouldn't hurt. And what does the SPOUT connector do? In what order do I disconnect and reconnect the SPOUT connector? Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated!!!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 01:47 PM
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You need to find TDC of the compression stroke not 10 BTDC. That's both valves closed after the intake valve shuts. Then stab the dizzy for #1 and set your base timing with the spout disconnected.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2018 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ford390gashog
You need to find TDC of the compression stroke not 10 BTDC. That's both valves closed after the intake valve shuts. Then stab the dizzy for #1 and set your base timing with the spout disconnected.
i had the crack pulley at 10 btdc because of this label. Is that not correct?

 
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Old Dec 23, 2018 | 01:37 PM
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The firing order is: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 . You go counter clockwise on the distributor. And the #1 cylinder is the front passenger side.

It's easiest to set the balancer timing mark at TDC. Then you just turn the distributor to get the correct timing.

The timing advance is controlled by the computer. So when you pull the spout connector it locks out the advance. This lets you set the base timing ( 10 degrees ) with a timing light like Ford390gashog mentioned.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2018 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen Kovalcik
i had the crack pulley at 10 btdc because of this label. Is that not correct?
The label is correct but your method is not. Follow my above post. You need to find TDC which is 0 degrees on the compression stroke. Simply rotating the crank and lining up the Mark's means nothing if it isn't on TDC of the compression stroke.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2018 | 06:49 PM
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You can do it with the balancer and timing pointer aligned at 10BTC. Just make sure you're on the compression stroke. Stab the distributor in with the rotor pointing at about 2 o'clock, then when it drops in, the gear mesh will move that to around 1 o'clock where the #1 terminal is located. Then with the #1 wire on , stick a phillips screw driver into the plug end and hold it near a ground, then turn the ignition "on" then rotate the distributor back and forth slowly and watch for the spark. When it does, stop and lock the distributor down. When you check it running, and if you did it right, it will be dead on where you had the marks lined up with the pointer.
 
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