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300 cooling problems

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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 11:47 AM
  #1  
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300 cooling problems

Having an issue with my truck with a 300 strait 6. I didn't run truck for a month while I rebuilt front end. As soon as I got it back on the road it started overheating. I replaced thermostat (195) and radiator cap but now it is VERY slow to heat up. The previous thermostat was 195 also.

Another issue is I put a new radiator in a year ago and when it overheated it started seeping out of the joint at the filler neck and top of radiator. Bad radiator? It did this with old cap and new.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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Yeah, that sounds like a bad radiator.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 01:50 PM
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The rad should not leak. A rad shop can pressure test and fix leak. The thermostat I would get one at a 180 degrees. Rad cap 15 lb.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 01:51 PM
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If the radiator is leaking above the coolant level then it is probably letting air into the system and probably not pressurizing correctly. The pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant so if it is not pressurizing fully then it reaches boiling sooner than if it is under pressure. You could get the radiator pressure tested and possibly repaired if that is the issue, rather than replacing it.

Water boils at 212 degrees at sea level.
A proper coolant mix might boil at 223 degrees with one pound of pressure.
At 15 PSI the boiling point of the same coolant goes up to 257 degrees.

Chad
 
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Old Jul 15, 2019 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO
If the radiator is leaking above the coolant level then it is probably letting air into the system and probably not pressurizing correctly. The pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant so if it is not pressurizing fully then it reaches boiling sooner than if it is under pressure. You could get the radiator pressure tested and possibly repaired if that is the issue, rather than replacing it.

Water boils at 212 degrees at sea level.
A proper coolant mix might boil at 223 degrees with one pound of pressure.
At 15 PSI the boiling point of the same coolant goes up to 257 degrees.

Chad
My 79 I6 is having a cooling problem as well. The top of the radiator is much warmer than the bottom half. The return hose at the bottom is cool and can be compressed in my hand. The top hose is much warmer and isn't easily compressed. It's been a while since I changed the radiator so I don't remember, but is there a hard tube inside the top radiator hose?

What troubleshooting can can I do to ensure that the coolant is flowing properly to the engine?

i seem to recall that I did change out the thermostat when I changed the radiator, but I could be wrong.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by NH79F-100
My 79 I6 is having a cooling problem as well. The top of the radiator is much warmer than the bottom half. The return hose at the bottom is cool and can be compressed in my hand. The top hose is much warmer and isn't easily compressed. It's been a while since I changed the radiator so I don't remember, but is there a hard tube inside the top radiator hose?

What troubleshooting can can I do to ensure that the coolant is flowing properly to the engine?

i seem to recall that I did change out the thermostat when I changed the radiator, but I could be wrong.

Thanks.
Please describe the symptoms that make you think you have a cooling problem. Is the vehicle overheating and how do you know?

Dennis
 
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Old Jul 16, 2019 | 08:27 PM
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There is a spring in the bottom hose to prevent it from collapsing under "load".
 
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Old Jul 17, 2019 | 08:48 AM
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Mine had a similar issue and it required a new thermostat, coolant back-flush and lot of air bleeding / burping.
 
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