I remember seeing an anti theft device that was just an audio pin plug on the dash next to the radio
if you inserted a mic or head set nothing would happen and you needed the special plug that would short out the correct pins that could be wired into the IPR or CPS power feed.

this looks neat too

 

I wonder how long the battery lasts in that tracker?

 

 

Well then the thief knows its being tracked if he takes a second to look or when he thinks he is in the clear and then takes the time to look.

 

 

I am sorry that happened to you. Mine was stolen here in Denver a few years ago. It was recovered after seven months. It was in good shape so I bought it back from an auction. It was a nightmare. You always get good advice on what you should have done after something happens.

If you need a steering column go to steering column services in Utah. They sell rebuilt steering columns. Check to make sure your housing isn't damaged. They have good customer service and good prices. Make sure you get yourself an uncoded lock tumbler so a lock smith can recode it to your existing keys.

Not sure about the door lock. Maybe Ford can get you a lock set with your VIN. I would check the local DMV to make sure your stolen vin plate can't come back to haunt you.

After my truck was recovered, I had a python remote start/ kill switch put in. It is a bit harder to install on a diesel and it may not be the best option for a manual transmission. The kit costs $80 and a shop installed it for $150. In the end it was about $250 or so. It was the best money I ever spent. I disabled the remote start option and just use it for the kill switch. (I am nervous about sitting on the key fob and the truck starting in the garage till it runs out of gas.) I keep a spare battery for the FOB in the truck for when it dies and I can't start it.

I also built a huge garage, installed security lighting, got a home security system, and got a enormous gun safe. LOL.

My experience taught me this. The police are not actively looking for stolen vehicles and insurance companies aren't your friends. They want to pay out like your truck is a old beat up work truck. If you need to take the check to get back on the road immediately you are in trouble. They low balled me with a $10k settlement. I argued and got a check for $20k. When the truck was recovered I paid $13k not including repairs to get it back. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE PICTURES OF YOUR TRUCKS and save your receipts. Make sure you go out today and take detailed pictures of your truck. Make sure you go out today and take pictures of your trucks. When you get an offer on your vehicle hold out for a better settlement. These trucks are not cheap, but ins companies will say its worth next to nothing for being old. Or they will quote a gasser comparable which is like 1/2 the price. Also call your insurance company today and verify your contact information, coverage limits (full coverage), and make sure your aftermarket parts are included. Insurance agents will forget to get your name right, forget to put you down for full coverage, and don't forget to ask you if you have modified or aftermarket parts. Don't forget to ask if your aftermarket parts are covered.

Bill

 

Also, in the fine print there is a $10 per month subscription fee. That will start adding up fast.

 

I set my Hydra chip to "no start" and removed the display unit so they can't change the setting even if they know what to do. They would have to remove the chip from the ECU before getting anywhere. I guess that even if the truck would start at some point, nobody would sit in my driveway and keep cranking for minutes.