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Valve Cover Gaskets/ What are you running?

  #1  
Old 12-16-2018, 10:27 AM
pinbill
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Valve Cover Gaskets/ What are you running?

Hello,

An insurance settlement has forced me to do some upgrades to the truck. Its a 1997 F350 with 175k. It appears they need me to do a D66, Rosewood 160/30s, John Wood Valve Body, and some Gearhead tunes for the hydra chip. I will have an extra 1.0 turbo housing and RR billet wheel that needs a new home.

While I am doing the injectors and glow plugs. I will be using Ford Glow Plugs. I would like to replace the valve cover gaskets for sure and maybe the harnesses. All the wiring looks to I am looking at upgrading to the Superduty gaskets and wires. I have read bad things about the Dorman ones. Is there a viable alternative to the Ford/ Alliant Parts? Any opinions on these?

https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/52.html (I am leaning towards this one, but the non Ford Glow Plugs scare me a bit)

The APEX AVC1120S set from Rock Auto?

https://ktperformance.net/i-23914418-avp-valve-cover-gasket-kit-ford-1998-03-7-3l-power-stroke-pair.html?CATARGETID=120173980000089146&cadevice=c &gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_b6Ti9Kk3wIVE8pkCh1lXwUdEAQYAyA BEgKGGvD_BwE


Thanks for your help,

Bill
 
  #2  
Old 12-16-2018, 12:47 PM
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I did the SD stuff from Riffraft and put in ZD 11 glow plugs in from Riffraft.
 
  #3  
Old 12-16-2018, 03:49 PM
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What is wrong with your current valve cover gaskets and UVCHs? If nothing, save that cash for a low stall converter. This will totally transform how the truck drives.

Agree on Beru/ZD11 plugs. I would use Bosch also.

I would put that 1.0 housing on the D66, get the shaft speed up to move some air at lower speeds so the 66mm compressor wheel is more in the efficiency window. But that is me.
 
  #4  
Old 12-16-2018, 06:02 PM
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Looks like the kit you posted also has a GPR with it. I wouldn’t suggest anything less than a stancor GPR and the Beru glow plugs. Those just work. No question about it. I would probably do the SD gaskets from Riffraff or rockauto.

Have you performed a lot of research about a set of 160/30s driving the D66? Do you pull heavy? If so, you may have some EGT problems.
 
  #5  
Old 12-16-2018, 07:16 PM
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D66... No thanks. Supposedly the KC unit is good for a drop in. I have no experience with them personally
do a s series turbo .
Oe gaskets ..SD if you want to do it right.
 
  #6  
Old 12-16-2018, 07:24 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

As for the valve cover gaskets, the passenger side was leaking and I like to replace old rubber on cars. They say they are reusable but that has its limits. I will probably reuse the inside pig tails. They looked good. I am leaning towards Felpro. They usually make good stuff.

I was leaning towards a stock size turbo housing instead of the 1.0 because of EGTs. I will be doing mostly towing in the mountains here in CO. I had the RR wheel, 1.0 housing, banks intercooler, stock injectors, and basic hydra tunes. It was getting high egts and I would have to back off the throttle up the bigger pulls. Low EGT towing is why I want the D66.I don't really care about of the line or mid range power around town. I will run it with a fuel economy tune when I am not pulling the camper.

I didn't know there were so many drop in turbo options for the obs trucks. Does anyone have experience with the kc38r?

What is an S series Turbo?

Bill
 
  #7  
Old 12-16-2018, 08:15 PM
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s366sxe without a doubt. I can tell you personally that the D66 is a waste of money. You might as well go buy a used stock turbo if you need one.
 
  #8  
Old 12-16-2018, 08:28 PM
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How heavy are you towing and what gears you have? Get custom tunes, I bet your EGT's will be reduced significantly with good tuning. Also check for pre turbo leaks (up pipes) and boost leaks
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:33 PM
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I feel like the T4 turbo is out of the question for me. I already spent some money on bellowed up pipes.

I have 3.73 gears and tow a 6000 camper. The hills out here are pretty steep and the altitude is rough.

My manifolds and up pipes are leak free. The pressurized side is boost leak free too. I found an exhaust leak when I pulled the turbo. It was leaking between the exhaust housing and the center housing. It must have started when I put the 1.0 housing on. I really had to beat the snot out of the old housing to get it off. Here are a few questions.

If I put the billet wheel/ 1.0 turbo back in, is there some sort of heat resistant gasket maker that I can put on the exhaust housing to seal it better and stop the leak?

If I keep my old turbo will the 1.0 housing and 160/30 injectors cause high egts?

Is the kc38r turbo that much better than a leak free 1.0 tp38 with a riff raff billet wheel?

Thanks for the input. I don't have much experience modding these trucks. I am glad I didn't buy the d66 though.
 
  #10  
Old 12-16-2018, 09:45 PM
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If you want lower EGTs then you may want to reconsider the D66. Before you drop the coin take a look at an s366sxe. There definitely are several options to consider.
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:54 PM
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Looks like I was typing while you were! I would call KC and talk to them about your setup. Are you set on the 160/30s?
 
  #12  
Old 12-16-2018, 10:14 PM
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I will call them tomorrow. I don't mind spending the money, I just hope to get the best set up I can with a drop in or modified stock turbo.

Copper Permetex gasket maker is good to 700 degrees. There is probably a burr on the center housing and the gasket maker should fix the leak on the exhaust housing. If I decide to try and run the old turbo again.

I got a good recommendation on the 160 injector from rosewood then figured I would go for the 160/30 so I didn't want more HP later on. Do you have a suggestion for injectors?
 
  #13  
Old 12-16-2018, 10:30 PM
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I would personally stick with 160/0% custom tunes and save up for a t/4 set-up It worked great for me. I also went back to almost stock set up, You will be surprised how my truck runs now that I installed a stock set of used shimmed injectors with the Super duty set up I have (turbo, fuel system etc) i was towing an almost 14k dump trailer full of P gravel on my hot Tony Wildman tune, tuned for my stage ones I couldn't get the EGT gauge to go over 1100 going up an 8% for 5 miles foot to the floor, elevation here (3k-5k) doing 45-55MPH with OD off I also have 3.55
 
  #14  
Old 12-16-2018, 10:38 PM
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Also the only draw back with going back to stock sticks is power, I miss my stage 1's.
 
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify View Post
Also the only draw back with going back to stock sticks is power, I miss my stage 1's.
I don't even understand how you can do it going backwards...

Nope
Nope
Nope
nope
 

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