Hey again folks. Hope this is a simple enough road-side rigging to get my truck home.
My son tried to put the key in upside down (which is usually right-side-up to me - flat part on top) - ANYway - that messed up the cylinder. No problem - bought a new one. Here came the problem - when I went to remove the cylinder, the entire unit behind the cylinder (whatever you call that round black module(?) with the wires attached - well it fell to pieces. I can press the 2 together and turn it and the starter turns but seems like no fire, and even if it did I assume there is no way to keep it in the 'run' position.
Cannot find that piece around here and don't mind ordering one, but I need to get it home (its 1/4 mile away at a buddie's and I hate to pay a tow)
Question is - there are 3 wires that attach to the back of that whatyacallit on a stud, and 3 (i am pretty sure) that run into the unit. Can i run some kind of toggle switch such that the 1st up gives the accessories juice and the 2nd up turns the starter? If so what do I attach to what? I stink at electrical stuff...
There IS a push button right above that in the dash - would that have been to turn the starter at one time? I am not sure if any wires still connect to that or not. Even if it did I still need something to give juice to everything else, right?
Can someone recommend the easiest monkey-proof method to get her running?
Thanks in advance,
Ridin

 

IF you are still running points, then there is a simple way. I would not recomend this as any kind of long term fix, because you can harm your points and coil, but a 1/4 mile is not that far.
You can connect a wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the ignition coil. That will give you spark, now you need to turn the motor over.
Then, take an old screw driver and touch the tip to the small terminal on the starter solenoid that is marked with an S. Holding the tip there touch the shank of the screw driver to the side of the solenoid with the cable going to the battery, the hot side. You may need to use a wire, but this usually works for me. This will make the starter turn so if you have a manual tranny make darn sure it is in neutral or you will be going for a wild ride. I'd suggest 2 folks for this little manuver.

 

To add to prostocks' reply, to shut it off when you get it home, pull the wire you put on the + side of the coil & it should shut the engine down.

Sounds to me like you need a replacement Ignition switch, cylinder & keys by now. I'd also suggest you get & use a quality OEM type replacement Ign Switch as opposed to a lesser known "aftermarket" brand. The Best of course is a OEM FoMoCo replacement switch & your FoMoCo dealer should have cylinder & key sets also. NAPAs' Echlin Brand Switches are good too. FWIW. FoMoCo makes a Lock Cylinder & Key replacement set. It allows you to replace both Door & Ignition lock cylinders so all lock keys match.

I'd also offer the suggestion you not teach your "son" how to "hot wire" your truck so don't let him watch you perform Prostocks solution. . . . Roger That?

FBp

 

Hot wiring 101


3 wires. 1 is from the battery, another is to the rest of the truck ( ignition, blinkers, brake lights, wipers, ect. ) and the third one is to the starter. twist the first two together to turn the truck on. pull them apart to turn it off. to start it, touch the third wire to the other two.

 

As an addition, the button on the dash is for your windshield washer.

 

You are talking about the 3 wires that run into the switch part right? What are the 3 that attach to the stud on the rear for and do they need to connect to anything?

Thanks

 

Without running a wire from the battery to the coil I can still get no spark with this hotwiring method. I COULD do that but I don't really want to take a chance on burning anything up. Anyone know if the other 3 wires that attach to the stud on the back should be tied in with the main hot at the switch?
Thanks
Ridin

 

The only risk is that you don't have any fuse protection. The damage to the coil might occur if you ran it this way for a looooong time. Keep in mind that in a properly operating system, as long as the key is turning the starter motor, you are supplying a full 12v to the coil. So running it that way temporarily is not gonna harm the coil. I'm sorry I can't help you with the wiring to the switch, the wire you are looking for there certainly does exist and if you had a multi-meter you might find it.
The hotwire method as I and Fordboypete have described will work.

 

Aight then - gonna go try it now. Thanks

Ridin