Electrical issues

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Dec 12, 2018 | 11:15 PM

JimScott

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Electrical issues

I've never been very good at troubleshooting electrical problems. My 65 style side has come down with a gremlin. First my blinkers wouldn't blink. I replaced the relay and they worked for a bit and then quit again. Now, my dash lights are out and my dome light won't work. The head lights, tail lights and brake lights work fine. Any suggestions? Thanks guys!

Dec 13, 2018 | 12:18 AM

Christmas

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Well the dome light? The dome light runs through the light switch. No.1 suspect.

Dec 13, 2018 | 12:23 AM

JimScott

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Christmas

Well the dome light? The dome light runs through the light switch. No.1 suspect.

I had a feeling. I just didn't want to throw parts at it without knowing. Thanks!

Dec 13, 2018 | 10:04 AM

resonateur

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Jim:
Fear not....automotive electrical! Suggestion, get yourself a cheap multimeter like at Harbor Freight. Set it to 12V DC and learn how to test for voltage at various locations such as the light switch terminals mentioned above. Since all the wires you’re trying to trace are color coded, its not that hard. It will be a learning experience, but circuit testing does no harm, you’ll learn a lot, feel more empowered and less like you’re throwing random parts at the truck.

Dec 13, 2018 | 10:24 AM

JimScott

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Quote:

Originally Posted by resonateur

I'll definitely do that. Thank you!

Dec 13, 2018 | 06:44 PM

User 71024

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It most cases a test light is easier than a VOM. You don't usually care how many volts you have when playing with most of the circuits on your truck, just that you have them. :-)

Dec 14, 2018 | 12:14 PM

FordsOnlyGarage

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JimScott

...My 65 style side has come down with a gremlin. First my blinkers wouldn't blink. I replaced the relay and they worked for a bit and then quit again...

When you say they won't blink, do they ALL turn on and not blink? Or do they not turn on at all?

If they turn on, are either the front or rear turn filaments burned out?

A turn signal flasher works sort of like a circuit breaker. When you turn on the circuit, the lights come on for second or 2, the load of the circuit heats up the relay arm in the flasher and the circuit opens - lights shut off. Then the arm cools, the lights turn on again. Repeat, repeat,.... When you have one filament burned out, there is not enough current flow (amperage) to heat up the relay arm in your flasher, and thus the lights stay on and and do not flash (which also is an indicator to the driver to check for burned out bulbs).

Other causes for non-flash condition:

Poor ground (again, low amperage causes not enough heat for flasher relay arm)
Did you install an LED bulbs? These require a low amperage LED flasher.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimScott

...I've never been very good at troubleshooting electrical problems.

No worries. As mentioned below, a cheap digital volt meter will help you quickly and accurately diagnose the number one cause of wiring issues - VOLTAGE DROP due to high resistance in you circuit (poor grounds, bad connections, etc).
We can help you with that!