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I did a Google search and found some write ups for fixing the sending unit but it mostly came up with 7.3's . Nothing on the 6.0. And they were really outdated...Not sure if they are the same. Is there a cheaper fix for the sending unit or is my only option a new one priced at $300.
Issue is that I get random fuel gauge readings. Never goes up to full even when I fill the tank. It's randomly drops to empty even when full. And when it's getting empty it always reads half a tank. The gauge is working properly, I'm %100 it's the sending unit. Verified gauge function with scan tool. Thanks
I would ensure the ECM is getting the correct signal first. The dealer replaced my sending unit under warranty three times beofre I figured out that the instrument cluster was at fault.
I would ensure the ECM is getting the correct signal first. The dealer replaced my sending unit under warranty three times beofre I figured out that the instrument cluster was at fault.
I used my scanner and was able to cycle the gauge it showed no faults as well as the cluster. It had some faults.but nothing regarding the guages. It was stuff like not having my seatbelt on...I don't have the obd code anymore so I forgot what it was but a few weeks ago I had a code for the sending unit as well.
Looks like same sensor from 99-07. I would first remove the old one and see if you can clean the wipers and contact strips. It might just be scungy.
But heres the part number I found if you need to replace it.
Looks like same sensor from 99-07. I would first remove the old one and see if you can clean the wipers and contact strips. It might just be scungy.
But heres the part number I found if you need to replace it.
6C3Z-9275-EA
Is cleaning it possible?
I know what needs to be done but when I searched for a fix there was some forums saying they just bought a switch with the same ohms and was able to replace the broken part but that was like 15 years ago and it was for the 99 f250 7.3... not 6.0, so I was wondering if anyone knew of a fix for these trucks instead of replacing the whole thing.
I know what needs to be done but when I searched for a fix there was some forums saying they just bought a switch with the same ohms and was able to replace the broken part but that was like 15 years ago and it was for the 99 f250 7.3... not 6.0, so I was wondering if anyone knew of a fix for these trucks instead of replacing the whole thing.
Oh wow awesome. That would be a life saver if that's my issue. I guess I won't know until I get in there. I'd feel better just replacing it but I'm not currently working so money is tight. But Thanks! Once I have the option of fixing it financially I'm going to try to clean it, if it can't be cleaned then I'll be able to replace it when I'm ready.
I have done the cleaning on two trucks so far and in each case only spent about $15,00 for the new big green seal. I feel that a new seal is a good thing to do as someone had
been in there on the first truck and did not get it torqued right and the seal was a bit stiff.I had diesel weeping down the outside of the tank. New seal fixed it.
While you at it you may want to do the harpoon mod and also check the screen in the foot along with checking the little red duckbill valve to be sure it there and still soft.
What that seal does is keeps air from getting pulled into the pump when your under about 1/4 tank.
For toold you don't have to have any but having the tank ring tool sure makes life easy. Then you also can get the torque correct and no leaks at all. You might be able
to find a universal type at a rental store or for about $40 get it from Ebay. Just let me know if you need the tool part number.
I've been using a number of oxidation cleaners lately, vinegar, citric acid, and Evaporust. With the acids, I flush like hell afterward or use baking soda to neutralize. Just last week I did my normal thing of using vinegar to clean the battery terminals on my son's Jeep. It works great on those, I should have taken a picture.
I wonder if we could do the same with the fuel level potentiometers without having to gingerly play with the plastic cover. Of course, I've used DeOxIt on volume potentiometers for years with great results, another option.
Looks like same sensor from 99-07. I would first remove the old one and see if you can clean the wipers and contact strips. It might just be scungy.
But heres the part number I found if you need to replace it.6C3Z-9275-EA
I've been using a number of oxidation cleaners lately, vinegar, citric acid, and Evaporust. With the acids, I flush like hell afterward or use baking soda to neutralize. Just last week I did my normal thing of using vinegar to clean the battery terminals on my son's Jeep. It works great on those, I should have taken a picture.
I wonder if we could do the same with the fuel level potentiometers without having to gingerly play with the plastic cover. Of course, I've used DeOxIt on volume potentiometers for years with great results, another option.
Jack I would stick with one of three products.
Rubbing Alcohol.
Coating Safe Throttle Body Cleaner.
Carburetor Cleaner.
1 and 2 as I recall may be the same thing just 2 is a spray. 3 should work but have not tried it because you still need to
take the little plastic cover off to lift and clean the little contact wiper.
I use run of the mill household Q-tips. You wipe the pad with a fresh one until it comes back rust free. Don't rub hard or scrub.
You don't want to turn it into a $300 repair. The little resistor pads will take some pressure but you don't want to scrub one off.
Now somewhere I happened to read this but don't know the truth behind it. There was someone saying that you could get a
replacement gas truck sensor for less and the board was the same as the diesel. Would be good to know for sure if this was
the case. It's good that the pads are not made like the older ones were made that did rub through the pads. My 1988 Ranger
would always skip around at 1/2 tank. Seemed I spent a lot of it's life around that point and it just rubbed through the pad.
But it was a different process.