F350 Diesel - Fuel Level Sensor
#1
F350 Diesel - Fuel Level Sensor
We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so. We have a warranty to cover this problem, and we are told they will fix it as soon as they find out what to fix from Ford. What a bunch of crap I think! I have a truck driving friend who has a really good diesel mechanic. I bet he wouldn't have to cal Ford to figure out how to fix it. Anyway, is this an expensive fix if we should have to replace the sensor? And is it in the tank or on the pump? Any help or info would be great as I'm going to be talking to this dealer next time, hubby won't be mean, but I am sick of being run around by this guy!
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
The fuel level sensor is inside the fuel tank. It is part of an assembly that has the fuel level float and pickup tube. It isn't terribly expensive to replace if that's what it is. Any competent mechanic could swap it out, IF that is what it is.
Can't comment on whether that is really the issue without more info. It's pretty easy to troubleshoot, so something doesn't add up.
Can't comment on whether that is really the issue without more info. It's pretty easy to troubleshoot, so something doesn't add up.
#4
My 06 F 350 diesel did the same thing. The code indicated the fuel sensor. My local dealer quoted about $500 for the part plus labor. The fuel tank has to be dropped (or the bed lifted to gain access) and the sensor does fit inside the tank. I bought the exact same part online for about $275 (if my memory serves me) and my local shop charged several hundred to install. It takes about two hours of shop time, but is not that difficult, just a pain to drop the tank. Since then, I have had no problem, so this was the right fix. (My truck is out of warranty) Hope this helps.
#5
This is the perfect time to harpoon the tank if you choose to work on it yourself.
Powerstroke Fuel Tank Modification
This is a pic of the fuel level sensor/fuel pickup assembly:
Powerstroke Fuel Tank Modification
This is a pic of the fuel level sensor/fuel pickup assembly:
#6
#7
Same thing happened to mine, I got this message a few times:
The fuel level indicator would just quit even when I had just filled up. I read that running a tank with some Techron would buy some time. I ran a tank through and it lasted about a month before I got it again. I left it at the stealership for a week while they "tried to duplicate the problem" - it was in warranty so I wasn't too worried. I kept good track of my miles per tank of fuel just in case I had to live without the gauge. A month after that it left me and my family stranded on the side of the road. There was plenty of fuel and it had a new(ish) fuel filter (about a month old) yet it acted as if it wasn't getting any fuel. They said it was the "Fuel level sensor" - $1200 later - not under warranty - I got it back.
The fuel level indicator would just quit even when I had just filled up. I read that running a tank with some Techron would buy some time. I ran a tank through and it lasted about a month before I got it again. I left it at the stealership for a week while they "tried to duplicate the problem" - it was in warranty so I wasn't too worried. I kept good track of my miles per tank of fuel just in case I had to live without the gauge. A month after that it left me and my family stranded on the side of the road. There was plenty of fuel and it had a new(ish) fuel filter (about a month old) yet it acted as if it wasn't getting any fuel. They said it was the "Fuel level sensor" - $1200 later - not under warranty - I got it back.
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#8
I have a 2006,, F-350 Super Duty, Dually Shortbed, 158" wheelbase. 4x4, 6.0 Diesel, 48,500 miles.
The truck was dead after it sat for a couple of days, I checked the stock battery and it showed "red" in the inspection hole, so I put a new battery in, and in a couple of days it was dead again. So, I put the computor to it and it came up with "P0-460"- Fuel Level Sensor, but I'm not having any trouble with the gauge at all.
Is this sensor located it the tank? I'm looking at getting the part from Rock Auto Parts on line, is this a good place to get it or is there someplace else to look online?
Thanks for the help!!
Capt. Mike
The truck was dead after it sat for a couple of days, I checked the stock battery and it showed "red" in the inspection hole, so I put a new battery in, and in a couple of days it was dead again. So, I put the computor to it and it came up with "P0-460"- Fuel Level Sensor, but I'm not having any trouble with the gauge at all.
Is this sensor located it the tank? I'm looking at getting the part from Rock Auto Parts on line, is this a good place to get it or is there someplace else to look online?
Thanks for the help!!
Capt. Mike
#9
I have a 2006,, F-350 Super Duty, Dually Shortbed, 158" wheelbase. 4x4, 6.0 Diesel, 48,500 miles.
The truck was dead after it sat for a couple of days, I checked the stock battery and it showed "red" in the inspection hole, so I put a new battery in, and in a couple of days it was dead again. So, I put the computor to it and it came up with "P0-460"- Fuel Level Sensor, but I'm not having any trouble with the gauge at all.
Is this sensor located it the tank? I'm looking at getting the part from Rock Auto Parts on line, is this a good place to get it or is there someplace else to look online?
Thanks for the help!!
Capt. Mike
The truck was dead after it sat for a couple of days, I checked the stock battery and it showed "red" in the inspection hole, so I put a new battery in, and in a couple of days it was dead again. So, I put the computor to it and it came up with "P0-460"- Fuel Level Sensor, but I'm not having any trouble with the gauge at all.
Is this sensor located it the tank? I'm looking at getting the part from Rock Auto Parts on line, is this a good place to get it or is there someplace else to look online?
Thanks for the help!!
Capt. Mike
I think what you have is a second bad battery. You should always replace these batteries in pairs, because if one fails it is likely going to ruin the other too. You could also have a bad alternator, or you could have something else drawing a transient load when the truck is off. I don't know exactly what problem you have, but I would look somewhere other than the fuel sender, and I would start with fresh batteries on both sides.
And most importantly, welcome to FTE!
#10
Thanks Bill
Thanks Bill,
Thank you for the reply! I will start by replacing the other battery!! And hope that is it.
While we're talking about my truck, I was thinking about trying to add some components to get the fuel mileage up and a little more tourque,
I pull a 5th wheel trailer at around 15,000 pounds, more tourque and better mileage would be great.
I don't want to take up all your time but if you would have some ideas that would help me out I sure would appreciate that.
Thanks again
Mike
Thank you for the reply! I will start by replacing the other battery!! And hope that is it.
While we're talking about my truck, I was thinking about trying to add some components to get the fuel mileage up and a little more tourque,
I pull a 5th wheel trailer at around 15,000 pounds, more tourque and better mileage would be great.
I don't want to take up all your time but if you would have some ideas that would help me out I sure would appreciate that.
Thanks again
Mike
#11
I wonder what fuel sensor cost $1200? Is the whole thing gold-plated?
I have older Ford model so no error codes on fuel sensor, but my impression is that the error might have nothing to do with sensor itself, but with the circuit the sensor uses. Quite often low voltage makes some sensors malfunction, what most of the time is ABS.
Bottom line - the vehicle doesn't have sensors double checking all sensors and quite often the error is triggered by other parameters. For example on my diesel sedan I had wastegate code popping each time when I floored it and than going away. I did check the wastegate operating perfectly and was struggling with it for a year till a member pointed me that the code might indicate a leak in the system that shows low pressure difference. Unbelievable >>> close inspection exposed small cut on intercooler hose.
So don't take all the codes by their exact value. The actual problem might be on the line on other side of the truck.
I have older Ford model so no error codes on fuel sensor, but my impression is that the error might have nothing to do with sensor itself, but with the circuit the sensor uses. Quite often low voltage makes some sensors malfunction, what most of the time is ABS.
Bottom line - the vehicle doesn't have sensors double checking all sensors and quite often the error is triggered by other parameters. For example on my diesel sedan I had wastegate code popping each time when I floored it and than going away. I did check the wastegate operating perfectly and was struggling with it for a year till a member pointed me that the code might indicate a leak in the system that shows low pressure difference. Unbelievable >>> close inspection exposed small cut on intercooler hose.
So don't take all the codes by their exact value. The actual problem might be on the line on other side of the truck.
#12
Thanks Bill,
Thank you for the reply! I will start by replacing the other battery!! And hope that is it.
While we're talking about my truck, I was thinking about trying to add some components to get the fuel mileage up and a little more tourque,
I pull a 5th wheel trailer at around 15,000 pounds, more tourque and better mileage would be great.
I don't want to take up all your time but if you would have some ideas that would help me out I sure would appreciate that.
Thanks again
Mike
Thank you for the reply! I will start by replacing the other battery!! And hope that is it.
While we're talking about my truck, I was thinking about trying to add some components to get the fuel mileage up and a little more tourque,
I pull a 5th wheel trailer at around 15,000 pounds, more tourque and better mileage would be great.
I don't want to take up all your time but if you would have some ideas that would help me out I sure would appreciate that.
Thanks again
Mike
However, those are not nearly as rare as the modification that yields both more torque and better fuel mileage.
Seriously, I don't think there is a safe engine tune or modification that can increase torque. Tunes can grossly increase torque no doubt, but it isn't safe for towing heavy IMO. Probably the best thing you can do is to regear the diffs. If you have 3:73 you can go much deeper on the ratio. I would not expect MPG to improve, but performance would for sure.
You might ought to start a new thread on these other topics, to avoid hijacking.
#13
#14
My 01 F150 XLT extended cab 209K on the odometer had a check engine light that the code reader said was the Fuel level sensor.... Now I have a question.... if the sensor is malfunctioning would this shut the fuel pump off making the computer think the tank was empty?
#15
Well mine HAD that problem and was an easy fix.
This is the problem. Mine had rust on the resistor and wiper (water in diesel at some point)
When you do this use a LOT OF CARE the plastic can get very brittle with age. Take you time and don't rush
The resistor will get crud on it or a spot will wear in it. If it's just crud
you can clean it with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. It helps to have this tool
but you can do it with out the tool
This is how the tool fits on and it goes to 60Ft/Lb I did the bed lift option
I had to take mine off do to a small fuel leak from the O-ring and went to take a look at the
sensor while I was in there and saw I could fix it easy. Before you do remove the ring
and the sender make sure that you clean all the dirt off the top of the tank so it does not fall in.
The only tool you should need to remove the fuel lines is you finger. Look for a little tab/button
thing on the line and depress it as you push the line together and after you get it depressed pull
lines apart. Cover then to keep then clean. Use a lot of care when you remove and install the
level sender into the tank you don't want to bend anything. If you want to do the harpoon mod
now is a good time to do it. If you have the tank empty you should check the bottom for any crud
and also check the screen and rubber valve on the pickup if you not replacing it, A bad rubber parts
will cause you to not be able to get below 1/4 tank do to air being pulled into the pickup. You can also
get the pickup strainer by it's self if that is bad. Put a little clean engine oil on the O-ring when
you put it back together. place O-ring and then the sender on the tank. Get it centered up and place the
ring on and turn it down by hand and keep checking that you still locked in place with the tab on the
sender. When you get to the point where you can turn by hand get the tool and torque wrench.
60 Ft/Lb takes a bit and more that you would guess. You can't do it in one turn because you need to
reposition the tool till you get 60Ft/Lb.
If you like to or have the skills to make your own tools I can give you the measurements of the tool Just send me a PM.
I know you can find it on Ebay for around $20.00 I know that you can use a punch to do this.
I found the tool less of a problem. My ring was not at toque so had I used the punch trick I would not
od had a good starting point to mark from. But if you do use a punch take a paint marker and place a mark on the
ring and on the tank so you know where the starting point is. Count the number of times you turn it and
put it back on that many turns and line up the paint marks. Take the punch and place the tip on the ribs and
tap it around the the tank to remove it and do the same to put it back on. Just don't SMACK it with you hammer
Good Luck
I did this last summer 2012 and still reading the right fuel level and no errors
Sean
This is the problem. Mine had rust on the resistor and wiper (water in diesel at some point)
When you do this use a LOT OF CARE the plastic can get very brittle with age. Take you time and don't rush
The resistor will get crud on it or a spot will wear in it. If it's just crud
you can clean it with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. It helps to have this tool
but you can do it with out the tool
This is how the tool fits on and it goes to 60Ft/Lb I did the bed lift option
I had to take mine off do to a small fuel leak from the O-ring and went to take a look at the
sensor while I was in there and saw I could fix it easy. Before you do remove the ring
and the sender make sure that you clean all the dirt off the top of the tank so it does not fall in.
The only tool you should need to remove the fuel lines is you finger. Look for a little tab/button
thing on the line and depress it as you push the line together and after you get it depressed pull
lines apart. Cover then to keep then clean. Use a lot of care when you remove and install the
level sender into the tank you don't want to bend anything. If you want to do the harpoon mod
now is a good time to do it. If you have the tank empty you should check the bottom for any crud
and also check the screen and rubber valve on the pickup if you not replacing it, A bad rubber parts
will cause you to not be able to get below 1/4 tank do to air being pulled into the pickup. You can also
get the pickup strainer by it's self if that is bad. Put a little clean engine oil on the O-ring when
you put it back together. place O-ring and then the sender on the tank. Get it centered up and place the
ring on and turn it down by hand and keep checking that you still locked in place with the tab on the
sender. When you get to the point where you can turn by hand get the tool and torque wrench.
60 Ft/Lb takes a bit and more that you would guess. You can't do it in one turn because you need to
reposition the tool till you get 60Ft/Lb.
If you like to or have the skills to make your own tools I can give you the measurements of the tool Just send me a PM.
I know you can find it on Ebay for around $20.00 I know that you can use a punch to do this.
I found the tool less of a problem. My ring was not at toque so had I used the punch trick I would not
od had a good starting point to mark from. But if you do use a punch take a paint marker and place a mark on the
ring and on the tank so you know where the starting point is. Count the number of times you turn it and
put it back on that many turns and line up the paint marks. Take the punch and place the tip on the ribs and
tap it around the the tank to remove it and do the same to put it back on. Just don't SMACK it with you hammer
Good Luck
I did this last summer 2012 and still reading the right fuel level and no errors
Sean