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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Idle issue nightmare

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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 07:35 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sandymane
Do you have a manual or auto transmission? If manual, your clutch must be depressed the entire time while doing the codes.
Sandy, do you need to depress the clutch for the KOEO or just the KOER ?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
When you turn your key on take a photo of the lights that iluminate.
I doubt you have a CEL.
Is your light Red? that would be a Engine Warning Indicator for the Oil Pressure & Coolant Temperature.
CELs are usually Yellow/Orangeish
You may also have a "Emissions" light.
See what lights up when you first turn your Key on.

Now, your could very well have some 1988 technology in her if she is a late in the year build date.
Check your Build date/MFG Date on the sticker inside the drivers door.
Engine light is as red as Rudolphs nose.. Date on door is 06/87
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:10 PM
  #33  
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yea I replaced the bulb & it turns red when key on but engine not running
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Will Joyce
Engine light is as red as Rudolphs nose.. Date on door is 06/87
Yeah, that one is most likely for the oil and coolant..
You are safe with a build date between Jan & June, three months before Jan you get some leftovers, and three months after June you start getting next years Guinea pig parts.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Will Joyce
yea I replaced the bulb & it turns red when key on but engine not running
Yeah, that will go off when you build oil pressure, but come on if you lose oil pressure or overheat.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:23 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Yeah, that will go off when you build oil pressure, but come on if you lose oil pressure or overheat.
Thanks a whole lot for your in put . I will try some of the suggestions this weekend -- too damn cold here to do anything else outside tonight
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Sandy, do you need to depress the clutch for the KOEO or just the KOER ?
Both. Sandy
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:31 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jas88
Have you tried unplugging the IAC? If the extra air is not coming via the IAC, or the throttle blades, then you have a vacuum leak.
Will, don't forget this check, it is quick and easy...
I'm assuming you have a tachometer?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:35 PM
  #39  
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From: Somewhere n North America
Originally Posted by Will Joyce
Thanks a whole lot for your in put . I will try some of the suggestions this weekend -- too damn cold here to do anything else outside tonight
Where are you in VA, i'm in the tidewater area for a little while this winter..
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 08:41 PM
  #40  
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From: Somewhere n North America
Originally Posted by sandymane
Both. Sandy
Thanks.
I have added this requirement to my standard position on OPs reporting codes to the masses.....; Will, FYI

Check for Codes, run KOEO & KOER test, let your computer tell you what it knows;
Engines are easier to diagnose over the internet when all the codes are listed, and in order of test.
KOEO - (O) Self-Test Codes =
KOEO - (C)(CM) Continuous Memory Codes =
KOER - (R) Self-Test Codes =

Make sure your A/C, Heat, Radio, etc. are turned off when testing.
Do you have any Non-Stock modifications?
(Air Intake? Smog System? Exhaust System? Ignition System?)

If you have a 6 cylinder & manual transmission, you will have to maintain a depressed clutch pedal for the duration of the KOEO & KOER Self-test.

If using a Digital Code Reader;
The "10" appears during KOEO to indicate the start of Continuous Memory Codes.
The "10" appears during KOER to indicate the start of the WOT test.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:11 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by sandymane
If manual, your clutch must be depressed the entire time while doing the codes.
6 cylinder trucks only. Does not apply to V8 trucks.

 
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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 09:17 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by rla2005
6 cylinder trucks only. Does not apply to V8 trucks.
thanks... modification made..
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 08:48 AM
  #43  
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Didnt have a clue you had to depress the clutch while doing the codes --will try that
6 cylinder trucks only. Does not apply to V8 trucks.
Thanks for adding that, I was fixing to call BS on this. Never had to do that on my 1990 302 truck or my current 1991 460 truck.

Is that all years SD? Or just early ones (87 was first year)? My 460 truck used to be a Six and I don't remember having to do that but I am not sure I ever pulled codes on it before the swap.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 09:23 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by jas88
Is that all years SD? Or just early ones (87 was first year)?
I see the circuit starting in 1987 thru 1993 for the 4.9L, pin 30 on the EEC in the EVTMs.
I don't see it in 1997, but the 4.9L is history by then.
(I only have EVTMs 80-93 + 97)
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 10:59 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
I see the circuit starting in 1987 thru 1993 for the 4.9L, pin 30 on the EEC in the EVTMs.
I don't see it in 1997, but the 4.9L is history by then.
(I only have EVTMs 80-93 + 97)
My 95 must use the clutch for codes. Sandy
 
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