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Idle issue nightmare

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Old 12-03-2018, 05:26 PM
Will Joyce
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Idle issue nightmare

Yep its me again with a 87 302 ( think the engine is from a later year) new: IAC, TPS, IGNITION CONTROL MODULE,& ECM .
idles at 3000 rpms . didnt know about unplugging the PIP TO prperly adjust timing , but when I unplugged it ,Icouldnt get the distributer to turn after loosing the hold down bolt . Someone said the starter may not retract & still engaged in the flywheel .
Any help , ideas or any advive appreciated . Ive got a 351 sitting in my garage so maybe I should put that in . But Im afraid by using the same electronics ,I i would have the same problem ?
 
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:33 PM
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When you say unplug the pip do you mean the spout? If so, that could not have caused the high idle. Did it happened exactly when you unplugged it? If not what was happening at the start of the 3K idle? Were you replacing parts etc. Sandy
 
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:26 PM
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Did you check the throttle cable and throttle body to see if either are sticking and causing that high idle? 3,000 RPM is REALLY high ...
 
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:09 AM
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a starter not retracting is not going to give you a high idle, so you can safely rule that out as the cause ( if it IS sticking you will hear some ugly noises, but it has nothing to do with idle speed).
soak the distributor base with penetrating oil overnight if you wish, but it too, is not likely to be causing this issue, so i wouldnt be too inclined to mess with it.
check for binding/sticking, as stated above. also, you have been doing a lot of stuff under the hood and may have snapped an extremely brittle 32 year-old vacuum line; check for vacuum leaks.
 
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:29 PM
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Yea spout is right .I was unsure what it was called . the idle speed didnt change with the spout plugged in or unplugged . when I replaced the ecm the idle was close to normal ,but still high 1500 rpms . But when I replaced the ignition control module ,I twisted the distributer a lot so I wouldnt have to take it out to get the bolts out, But at that time I didnt know when you mess with the distributer , you have to unplug the spout .So once I got the ICM hooke up I just moved the distributer back to where it was . So this time I was trying to do it right --unplug the spout to try & time it --but the distribbuter was frozen -- And I had just moved it a few weeks ago to get the ICM IN .
 
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:30 PM
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yes I did --Also checked for vac. leaks
 
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Old 12-04-2018, 08:34 PM
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Would an engine out of proper timing cause it to idle that high ..Ive twisted the distributer on another vehicle ( timing by ear) & dont remember A big change in idle speed
 
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Old 12-05-2018, 01:53 PM
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I think at this point it would be beneficial to run diagnostic codes and see if we can get some direction. Check the condition of the entire brake booster hose and MAP. Sandy
 
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sandymane View Post
I think at this point it would be beneficial to run diagnostic codes and see if we can get some direction. Check the condition of the entire brake booster hose and MAP. Sandy
ok Thanks -I have tried numerous times to run codes with a obd 1 scanner & the jump wire method --no luck Ill keep plugging away --Thx for your reply
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 03:05 AM
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Has anybody been messing with the Trottle Stop Screw ?
Are your butterfly plates open @ closed throttle ?

Explain what you mean by "no luck" when checking for codes.
When you plug in the 2 connectors to the Code reader and turn the key on, what happens? etc.

 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone View Post
Has anybody been messing with the Trottle Stop Screw ?
Are your butterfly plates open @ closed throttle ?

Explain what you mean by "no luck" when checking for codes.
When you plug in the 2 connectors to the Code reader and turn the key on, what happens? etc.

It says " reader must be connected to get codes (or something like that).. in other words nothing --tried multiple times -- also ran jumper wire to the STI & STO --CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DID NOT FLASH --Havent tried with a test light or volt meter yet but I would think a OBD1 READER WOULD TELL ME SOMETHING ??
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:04 AM
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Butter flys open & close like they should -- throttle stop ok too--havent messed with it
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:30 AM
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What make and model is your code reader ?
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:35 AM
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We have had a few posts concerning 1987 (86 as well?) trucks/Broncos. Seems like some state the Check Engine Light works other state there is not one in the dash at all. Even with a bulb inserted it does not work. That may be why the jumper method does not work for you, the bulb may not be there (does it light up when cycling the key from Off to Run?) or the computer may not send a signal to it.

The above would not explain why the code reader does not work. Try cleaning the pins on the connector with contact cleaner or more aggressive with a small finger nail file.
 
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Will Joyce View Post
It says " reader must be connected to get codes (or something like that).. in other words nothing --tried multiple times -- also ran jumper wire to the STI & STO --CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DID NOT FLASH --Havent tried with a test light or volt meter yet but I would think a OBD1 READER WOULD TELL ME SOMETHING ??
You do not have a Check Engine Light.
The jumper would go between STI & SIG-RTN , not STO. STO is where you would read the flashes.

 

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