pestronic pointless dist
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When I installed a pertronix ignitor in my 66 I also installed the PerTronix Flame-Thrower Ignition Coil (Primary Resistance:3.000 ohms and Secondary Resistance:8.50K ohms). I left the pink resistor wire in. Should I bypass it?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
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By all means replace it. You can test the difference by removing the Positive ignition wire from the coil and hot wire the coil from the battery and start her up. Should see a noticeable difference in response. You will have to remove the hot wire to turn the motor off.
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Joined: May 2012
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At the firewall connector that pink wire connects to both the red/green that runs to the coil and brown that runs to the ignition pole of the solenoid switch. Should I simply remove the pink and replace it with regular 16 ga., connected to those two wires at the firewall? Sorry if it seems like too obvious a question. Just want to make sure I have it right so I don't fry something.
Thanks
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Pertronix sez to leave the pink resistor wire alone when installing only the Ignitor 1 module and using the existing stock points ignition coil. Apparently a stock coil may not handle the increased current. The Ignitor 1 wants a minimum of 1.5 ohms resistance in the primary circuit. A high output 1.5 ohm coil like their Flamethrower and the Ignitor works fine with a heavy wire run direct from the ignition switch to the + terminal on the coil, bypassing the pink wire dropping resistor.
It's confusing when different questions piggyback on an existing thread. But to answer the question, a 3.0 ohm coil and the pink wire might not run very well, the voltage to the module would be reduced by quite a bit in RUN. Can use 3.0 ohm coil if bypassing resistor wire, but 12 ga. wire would be recommended.
It's confusing when different questions piggyback on an existing thread. But to answer the question, a 3.0 ohm coil and the pink wire might not run very well, the voltage to the module would be reduced by quite a bit in RUN. Can use 3.0 ohm coil if bypassing resistor wire, but 12 ga. wire would be recommended.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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The instructions will tell you how to do it, most likely better than anyone on the Internet can convey. If you don't have them, contact Pertronix.
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Post Fiend
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
One word about coils. No matter what it says on the coil it will only supply enough voltage to jump the plug gap. And with a normal gap that will usually be somewhere between 8000 and 20,000 volts. If it gets much over that you are probably going to be buying a lot of rotors and caps. I run a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil with no resistor wire because that's what the guy who built it said to do.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Crop Duster, just so everyone is on the same page, those are instructions for their coils, not their Ignitor modules. Points will burn up if the resistor wire is bypassed. The Ignitor 1 module can handle the increased current. The OP in this case wants to install the Ignitor module to replace the points.
Maybe they have changed, but the instructions for the Ignitor 1 module used to say
"If your ignition system currently has a ballast resistor, do not remove it"
The instructions for their coils and the modules are different, depending on the application. They sell different ohm coils, for use with different modules, and this is where people get confused. The resistance in the primary ignition circuit is designed to limit current, not voltage, though it does that too. If you measure the resistance of any old truck from the 60s, from the positive battery terminal through to the + wire terminal to the coil it goes through several connections that are probably corroded by now too.
Short answer is, if you use their 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil and the Ignitor 1 module, you can run without the ballast resistor. Make sure the distributor housing has a clean electrical connection to the block, and good battery cables to block and frame.
Maybe they have changed, but the instructions for the Ignitor 1 module used to say
"If your ignition system currently has a ballast resistor, do not remove it"
The instructions for their coils and the modules are different, depending on the application. They sell different ohm coils, for use with different modules, and this is where people get confused. The resistance in the primary ignition circuit is designed to limit current, not voltage, though it does that too. If you measure the resistance of any old truck from the 60s, from the positive battery terminal through to the + wire terminal to the coil it goes through several connections that are probably corroded by now too.
Short answer is, if you use their 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil and the Ignitor 1 module, you can run without the ballast resistor. Make sure the distributor housing has a clean electrical connection to the block, and good battery cables to block and frame.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
The instructions for those Pertronix coils don't separate points from electronic. That's just the way they wire em up. I figured we were talking electronic ignition anyway because anything but the stock coil would be a waste of money with points. You notice that the instructions say all applications. I don't fool with points anymore anyway everything I have put together since 1990 has had a Duraspark distributor with a Mopar module.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
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