1986 f150
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1986 f150
I got a 1986 f150 4 speed 4x4 300 i6 single barrel with all the sensor tps, electric choke the works. Never owned one of these learning all I can about it. I am having an issue with the throttle that I can not for the life of me figure out. You can start the truck up and it will idle but once you touch the throttle and let out it dies but will start back up and idle again. I've put it back in timing, changed the fuel pump and lines, done a egr and smog pump delete, new battery and cables, new radiator and fluids, guy I got it from put a national carburetor on it. I'm not sure if the carb isn't adjusted right or the tps, map, or the weird little solenoid on the carb went out ( I do not know the name of that part) any help would be great.
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I got a 1986 f150 4 speed 4x4 300 i6 single barrel with all the sensor tps, electric choke the works. Never owned one of these learning all I can about it. I am having an issue with the throttle that I can not for the life of me figure out. You can start the truck up and it will idle but once you touch the throttle and let out it dies but will start back up and idle again. I've put it back in timing, changed the fuel pump and lines, done a egr and smog pump delete, new battery and cables, new radiator and fluids, guy I got it from put a national carburetor on it. I'm not sure if the carb isn't adjusted right or the tps, map, or the weird little solenoid on the carb went out ( I do not know the name of that part) any help would be great.
The next thing is that carburetor. Is it a feedback carb? I don't know what a national carb is.
I recently picked up the exact same truck as you sans 4wd. Mine had been neglected then parked for 8 years.
I'm in the process of making it run right and everything I touch needs fixed or replaced so far lol.
If you end up suspecting the carburetor I picked up a non feedback chinese replacement off Amazon for about $90 shipped. My truck runs MUCH better with it. I am going to pick up the Ching chong chinese HEI distributor and fully delete the EECIV setup in my truck.
I suspect after getting all my vacuum leaks fixed and a proper vacuum advance distributor in it my truck will run pretty good.
Lead Driver
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From: Sheffield, AL
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Sounds to me like he needs to adjust the choke in the "richer" direction a little bit. On the round black thing on the carb, most of them say "leaner" or "richer" with arrows telling you which way to turn it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Somewhere n North America
I got a 1986 f150 4 speed 4x4 300 i6 single barrel with all the sensor tps, electric choke the works. guy I got it from put a national carburetor on it. I'm not sure if the carb isn't adjusted right or the tps, map, or the weird little solenoid on the carb went out ( I do not know the name of that part) any help would be great.
Your carburetor is most likely a Re-Built Carter-Motorcraft YFA model.
That part is called the Feedback Control Solenoid, controls Air/fuel mixture, by adjusting air, like an IAC.
If you want to check this part, unplug it and see if the engine Idle changes.
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1986 f150
I found that part. Rockauto had it under IAC put it on now i can touch throttle and it wont die. But still idles funny but I havent put it all the way in timing still got to put it 10 degrees over TDC at least that's what I've been told numerous times. I'm not sure if the carb on it is a feedback or not all ik about it right now is that it's an electronic choke rebuilt carb that's a pain to adjust havent got it right yet.
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From: Angier, NC
If the carb has a IAC that you put on and the dist. has a small square box on the side with wires coming out you have a feed back system and being an 1986 I would say it is.
This system is the first computer controlled carb, think of it as vary early fuel injection.
Because its a feed back system you can pull codes to kind of see what is wrong.
Do a search on how to pull codes using a test light.
Dave ----
This system is the first computer controlled carb, think of it as vary early fuel injection.
Because its a feed back system you can pull codes to kind of see what is wrong.
Do a search on how to pull codes using a test light.
Dave ----
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Even if you get the "Chinese" version" of parts running correctly, it may not be for long.... There's a reason that stull is so cheap.
I put in 3 Chinese HEI systems in 3 years,.... Ran great when initially installed, Left me on the side of the road twice when #1 module fried, then when free replacement #2 wore out the dizzy shaft, and when #3 started spitting and sputtering going down the road, (symptoms of #1 and 2) I had had enough..
Bought a NOS Motorcraft Duraspark module and Dizzy. Sent out the Dizzy to be calibrated for my requirements out in WA state, had National carburetor in FLA rebuild and flow test the new(er) Eddy 4-v, and have run now 3+ years with NO issues.....
Everything, "new" does not mean "will work" out of the box, But it sounds like you do not even have a stable "benchmark" to compare to.
Start with correct parts and get it running, Chasing cheap parts 3 and 4 times gets more expensive that correct parts the first time very quickly....
I put in 3 Chinese HEI systems in 3 years,.... Ran great when initially installed, Left me on the side of the road twice when #1 module fried, then when free replacement #2 wore out the dizzy shaft, and when #3 started spitting and sputtering going down the road, (symptoms of #1 and 2) I had had enough..
Bought a NOS Motorcraft Duraspark module and Dizzy. Sent out the Dizzy to be calibrated for my requirements out in WA state, had National carburetor in FLA rebuild and flow test the new(er) Eddy 4-v, and have run now 3+ years with NO issues.....
Everything, "new" does not mean "will work" out of the box, But it sounds like you do not even have a stable "benchmark" to compare to.
Start with correct parts and get it running, Chasing cheap parts 3 and 4 times gets more expensive that correct parts the first time very quickly....
Cargo Master
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From: Somewhere n North America
Photo the choke plate when the engine is ice cold and when it is fully warm.
Code Reader;
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Honestly the first thing I'd do is ditch the whole EECIV setup. Put a regular carburetor on it. New aftermarket ones are ~$90 bucks and bolt right on.
You can also get a complete GM HEI style distributor that will drop right in for ~$100.
Put the $200 into it, fix any vacuum leaks you have and it should run great.
You can also get a complete GM HEI style distributor that will drop right in for ~$100.
Put the $200 into it, fix any vacuum leaks you have and it should run great.
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I found that part. Rockauto had it under IAC put it on now i can touch throttle and it wont die. But still idles funny but I havent put it all the way in timing still got to put it 10 degrees over TDC at least that's what I've been told numerous times. I'm not sure if the carb on it is a feedback or not all ik about it right now is that it's an electronic choke rebuilt carb that's a pain to adjust havent got it right yet.
How did this work out in the long run? Mine is doing the same thing. I ended up ordering the last mixture control selenoid Rock Auto had for $37, even if it isn't the fix it seems like a good part to have on hand. Or did you take the other suggestion and change everything over and ditch the EEC?
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