Hey guys I just ordered my brand new duraspark distributor for my inline 6 motor and I have a few questions. What method is the most easy yet effective way to time an engine? Vaccuum gauge? Timing light? Where would the vacuum gauge be installed at? Where do I run my vacuum advance line from the distributor? Unfortunately I am still without a nonfeedback carb, so am making due with the feedbqck carb that I already have. Why is a non feedback carb not good . There will no electronics so whats the problem? Do i run my vac advance line to the valve cover or the vac tree. I read to crack the throttle loose and see where there is vacuum then an not in idle. Just a few questions thanks guys

 

86,

It'd really be best if you organized your questions a bit better and maybe used bullet points for each one.

Regardless, paragraphs and white space & organization make things LOTS easier to read (and answer).

Just sayin'....

 

The correct way to time an engine like these is with a timing light. A vacuum gauge can be used to set idle air/fuel ratio and should be connected to manifold vacuum, meaning vacuum that is always "on". But vacuum advance to the carb should be connected to ported vacuum ON THE CARB, which is off when the throttle is closed and can be found by checking the vacuum at a port and the cracking the throttle open a bit.

You can run a feedback carb w/o electrical connections. And, it may run just fine. Give it a try and see what you think.

 

I have run Motorcraft 2150a's (feedback) w/o any computer interaction. On the net there exists a post regarding a "metering block" that can be fab'ed to replace the solenoid on the back of this carb to aid in mimicking the puter's input. Evidently it works successfully for some..

I have run 2150a's successfully till I replaced them during a "durasparking" project more than once. If you do it this way at least you get your ignition dialed in and can leave a working carb alone till it's running again and then change the carb at a later time if need be.

I understand running a feedback carb w/o the feedback solenoid operating may not allow for optimum mixture control, so performance or economy may suffer some...but it WILL run.

You may have to re-adjust your idle speed to operate w/o a computer's interaction if you have an idle speed solenoid that is not longer functioning.

 

Sorry for the way I have been talking. I am on the site on my android phone. Any advice to give me regarding the installation of my new distributor? I am converting from electronic to vacuum advance so i cant see where the vacuum advance is pointing an go from there. Anything I need to look out for? And i shouldnt have to worry about time to much if I install the new distributor right correct?

 

In order to install the distributor you should pull at least the #1 plug, if not all of them to make it easier to turn the engine over. Then put a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn the engine over by hand until you feel the compression push your finger off of the #1 plug hole, which indicates that #1 is coming up on compression. Then carefully turn the engine the last little bit to get the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer to align with the timing pointer - at which point you are on #1's Top Dead Center.

Without moving the crank pull the distributor cap and note exactly where the rotor is pointing.. If it was me I'd take a picture of it since you need to get the new distributor in such that the rotor points to the same spot. And, it isn't a snap since the gears are curved such that the rotor actually turns as you install the distributor. So, you may need to try it, pull it, back it up a bit and try it again.

On the V8's the oil pump is driven by the bottom of the distributor shaft, but I'm not sure that's the case on the six. But, if it is the distributor may not fully bottom until the engine turns a bit, so don't put the clamp on and force it down hard. If you bump the engine a couple of times with the starter or turn it a ways by hand the distributor should drop down - but don't do that until you have the rotor lining up about right. However, if the distributor isn't all the way down the rotor won't have turned the last little bit, so you may not be quite lined up on the rotor until you bump it.

Does that help?

 

The six also drives the oil pump from the distributor, the shaft has a retainer ring and almost always comes out with the distributor.

I believe the correct orientation for the duraspark distributor is the vacuum advance is parallel to the crank pointing to the rear with number one nearest the engine.

 

Reps to you, Bill. I didn't know any of that, and it sure helps.