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If the soldering iron is plugged in he/she will have burnt fingers for sure. Personally I always have had better success holding the iron against the soldered joints which are on the opposite side of the board. A little heat, suck the melted solder away and the components usually come off with very little trouble.
I posted a few days ago about my own SJB question on my 2008 F250. Mine is no good and must be replaced. I know the replacement will have to be programmed. But will the truck run with the replacement before it is programmed? I live a good distance from any one that can program it so it would be far more convenient for me to drive it there. The other question is does the guy doing the programming have to read the program from my old SJB first?
You should be able to program it yourself using Forscan w/extended license on a Windows device if you want to DIY. It's easiest to upload your as-built data from the current module and then download it into the replacement module. Once can also download the as-built data from https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt
You should be able to program it yourself using Forscan w/extended license on a Windows device if you want to DIY. It's easiest to upload your as-built data from the current module and then download it into the replacement module. Once can also download the as-built data from https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt
Thanks for the info ProjectSHO89. I have never done any of the module programming. I have played a bit with C language programming of Atmel microcontrollers using an STK 500 and a windows based program. So I will have to read a bit to see if I am am comfortable programming the module myself.
I bought the truck used and it had no low beams along with cracked manifolds, seized suicide doors and a few other issues.All of those items are repaired. I used a GeneSys scanner and got several codes from the SJB.....B2A2F, B2A31, B106E and the most critical IMO was B106F. My take on B106F is that the module must be replaced. Everything I read says that. The truck had been used for snowplowing and again from what I read, the snowplow light wiring overloads the circuits. If you only have B106E I believe you can reset the module. At one point B106F is set and the only solution is replacing the SJB. I also have the airbag light on and I believe the module is the culprit there. I have done most of the diagnostics in the Mitchell manual. One check is the resistance between the HSCan + and ground and the HSCan- and ground. The book says it should be over 5000 ohms. I have about 4100 ohms so a little low. If I disconnect the module and do the test the resistance between the two HSCan wires and ground goes to 5900 ohms. That indicates to me there is an issue with the module. I have checked resistance on all the other circuits for continuity and all are fine. The resistance on the seat belt pretensioners is also fine....around 2 ohms (I did the check quite a while ago and can't recall the exact number but it was within specs).
From what you are saying If I do take it to be reprogrammed I am just as well off to leave the ol SJB in place and drive it to the shop. Then the mechanic can copy the program from the old box. After that I can install the replacement and he can program the replacement.
4x4 kicks in , but doesn't work. Driver Side window wouldn't work until a mechanic friend put another ground to it. Cruise doesn't work , heater control didn't work till I bypassed the vacuum source., Trail brake controller doesn't work and it's hooked hot in the fuse block . trying to remember. I'm sure there's a couple other things .
IMO the only things that might be associated with the GEM could be the driver’s window and maybe the 4x4 (I don’t know if that circuitry goes through the GEM). With the window issue being solved with a wire makes me think it’s that wire. A GEM issue would affect all the windows since it controls the delay/time out not the actuation.
These trucks are old and they might be independent issues. I’m always battling 2 or 3 things at a time to keep mine going. Sometimes they are small and sometimes they are large.
projectSHO89 I had a look at the Forscan info and I think i will give it a try. I have to buy a cable to connect to my laptop. I am looking at this one:
VINT-TT55502 ELM327 USB modified For all Windows Forscan ELMconfig Focccus HS-CAN / MS-CAN compatible with Ford and Mazda
The description indicates it should work. I've never heard of that particular device, though.
Thanks projectSHO89. I was reading the Forscan site and someone mentioned they had ordered that particular cable and someone else mentioned they had the same one and it worked fine on their F150. Not a lot of money so I thought I would give it try.