Tapping into 5V sensor line
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Other side of the sunrise
Tapping into 5V sensor line
I'm installing a fuel pressure transducer at the test port at the upper fuel filter housing but need a 5 volt source to wire the DashBoss wire kit. I was considering using my EGR for the source as being deleted, all it does is open and close the EGR for normal cooling fan operation. Anyway, I was wondering what the best way to tap into that wire is. I was going to try to carefully cut the insulation sheath of the 5v wire with a sharp knife and cut parallel to the wire to peel off the insulation, leaving a 1" section bare close to the plug. Then wrap/tie the new wire to the main wire and solder. I'd then paint the joint with liquid tape to ensure a water resistant seal. Is this the best way to do this or do you all know of something better/easier? What worries me is damaging that wire as a new harness is an expense I'm less than willing to bite on.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Other side of the sunrise
Rut roe... is there an alternative? How am I supposed to connect this thing?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Other side of the sunrise
OK, sounds good... I think. How can I identify this source?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
Here are some things to read.
If you go with a regulated 5vdc power supply. You are going to want a very stable and within the tolerances.
Also a little tip when splicing wires that way. If you use self fusing tape make one pass between the wires
and splice then the rest over the top.That way there won't be two wires with a gap that could wick liquids.
Then top tape it with good electrical tape or better yet heatshrink with mastic to seal it up is the best option.
Check Ebay for a regulator kit that is sealed 5 vdc output.
Here are some PDFs that you may find handy.
If you go with a regulated 5vdc power supply. You are going to want a very stable and within the tolerances.
Also a little tip when splicing wires that way. If you use self fusing tape make one pass between the wires
and splice then the rest over the top.That way there won't be two wires with a gap that could wick liquids.
Then top tape it with good electrical tape or better yet heatshrink with mastic to seal it up is the best option.
Check Ebay for a regulator kit that is sealed 5 vdc output.
Here are some PDFs that you may find handy.
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Lead Driver
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From: Other side of the sunrise
Is this in the large wire loom cluster up under the dash? If so, is there someplace where I can access this wire without cutting open the loom? I just hate cutting open and scattering a nice tight factory wiring loom. I'll be crawling in there tomorrow in daylight.
Fleet Owner
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Is this in the large wire loom cluster up under the dash? If so, is there someplace where I can access this wire without cutting open the loom? I just hate cutting open and scattering a nice tight factory wiring loom. I'll be crawling in there tomorrow in daylight.
It is in the SEIC customer access wire bundle
http://www.think-different.com/images/CASC-s.jpg
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Lead Driver
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From: Other side of the sunrise
Great video for my need for clarification. That really helps clear up the wiring maze mystery. Thanks mucho! So the guy said that this cluster of wires,(I assume this includes the PTO VREF wire) have a "Battery saver terminals"? I'm supposing that I need only to just cut off that end and butt connect to the wire from my device, correct?
I think I'll do the high idle while in there. Thanks again Mark!
I think I'll do the high idle while in there. Thanks again Mark!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
Thanks Mark for taking care of that. You saved me from poking around to get that photo.
On the other truck AKA: The Project. I used the BPC instead of the PTO. That way if the
load grows I will get more RPM parked in idle. Like if I were to be powering some equipment.
On the other truck AKA: The Project. I used the BPC instead of the PTO. That way if the
load grows I will get more RPM parked in idle. Like if I were to be powering some equipment.
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