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Those look pretty slick - I'm currently using x-chocks, a tripod, and 2 old trailer rims under the front landing legs (a little hick, I know, but works pretty darn good!). The shorter you can keep your jacks, the more stable it is, normally, but with those braces that all goes out the window -
The shorter you can keep your jacks, the more stable it is, normally, but with those braces that all goes out the window -
I think there is a lot to be said about keeping the stabilizer jacks as short as possible. I do mostly boondocking so finding a level site is akin to keeping my nose turned to the wind in hope of catching the scent of a unicorn fart.
Why do the JT Strongarms come with two struts for the front but only one strut for the rear?
Why do the JT Strongarms come with two struts for the front but only one strut for the rear?
Jim I'm not well versed on the TT strongarms, but on a 5ver the 2 front/1 rear makes sense. The front landing legs have zero triangulation as is, so they need to be braced both front to back and side to side. The rears already have tranglulation side to side by design of the power jacks, so they only need braced front to back.
That said, it only applies to power jacks. Scissor jacks have no triangulation by design, and like the landing gear on a 5ver need braced in 2 planes. I'm guessing that on a TT with 4 scissor jacks the front being braced in 2 planes is enough that the rear is sufficient braced in one.
The JT’s Strongarms come as a set of 6 struts. 2 for each of the front jacks (total of 4 struts) and 1 for each of the rear jacks (total of 2). The rear struts are mounted in the side-to- side direction. I suppose if you wanted to, you could order 2 more struts & brace the rears front-to-back as well, but it’s not really needed. My 5th wheel is rock steady with 6.
The JT’s Strongarms come as a set of 6 struts. 2 for each of the front jacks (total of 4 struts) and 1 for each of the rear jacks (total of 2). The rear struts are mounted in the side-to- side direction. I suppose if you wanted to, you could order 2 more struts & brace the tears front-to-back as well, but it’s not really needed. My 5th wheel is rock steady with 6.
It's bothered me that the rears have only one strut. I found a guy on ebay that sells just the strut, no hardware, for $35 plus $20 shipping, each. By the time I buy two, plus the necessary hardware I might as well just buy the whole kit brand new and sell the extras or keep them as spare parts. I doubt that I'll ever need spare parts though.
The JT Strongarm instructions aren't real clear on how the rear struts are oriented. I went back and read the instructions again yesterday and still didn't get a good feel for how they were to be installed. Based on your description, mine are wrong. I figured that the jacks had more side to side stiffness than front to back so I put my struts in front to back.
It's bothered me that the rears have only one strut. I found a guy on ebay that sells just the strut, no hardware, for $35 plus $20 shipping, each. By the time I buy two, plus the necessary hardware I might as well just buy the whole kit brand new and sell the extras or keep them as spare parts. I doubt that I'll ever need spare parts though.
The JT Strongarm instructions aren't real clear on how the rear struts are oriented. I went back and read the instructions again yesterday and still didn't get a good feel for how they were to be installed. Based on your description, mine are wrong. I figured that the jacks had more side to side stiffness than front to back so I put my struts in front to back.
The instructions have you mount the rear struts to a cross member close to the location of the rear jacks so they are oriented in a side-to-side fashion.
This is from the OEM installation manual. I do some technical writing when I need to for my software projects. These instructions are not even close to the standard of what I would put into my documentation. I found a set of older installation instructions that are more clear. I wish I had found them before I did my install.
17. Starting with one of the rear scissor jacks, remove the existing lower, outside pivot bolt; replacing with a ⅜ ” x 4” swing-bolt. Install swingbolt from back-to-front with the shoulder of the swing-bolt to the rear side of jack. Place ⅜ ” washer and ⅜ ”-16 locking nut on threaded end of swing-bolt. Tighten enough so that the swing-bolt will only pivot by using a screwdriver for leverage. Ensure swing-bolt tab is positioned horizontally.
The only part of the above instructions that might give me a clue that the strut was to go sideways is that the shoulder of the swing-bolt is to the rear of the jack. But that assumes you know what they mean by "shoulder".
Trailor's Rockin.... At Cheaha Mtn State Campground in Alabama a few years ago
A group of us were sitting around the campfire, and we all finally asked.... WTH is that noise ???? A little investigation.... and we quickly found the " Trailor Rockin " a couple of spaces away. They didn't put the wheel blocks out.... so as it rocked... the trailor would slide on the legs with a loud squeak. One of the guys went over and marked where the tire was and we all placed bets " How far it would move... " Was a young couple, so we eventually moved our camp chairs out to roadway, so we could verify the movement. When it all stopped, the guy ran over to put a measurement to it.... and damn if it didn't start all over again..... LOL We finally got bored and went back to campfire....
Trailor's Rockin.... At Cheaha Mtn State Campground in Alabama a few years ago
A group of us were sitting around the campfire, and we all finally asked.... WTH is that noise ???? A little investigation.... and we quickly found the " Trailor Rockin " a couple of spaces away. They didn't put the wheel blocks out.... so as it rocked... the trailor would slide on the legs with a loud squeak. One of the guys went over and marked where the tire was and we all placed bets " How far it would move... " Was a young couple, so we eventually moved our camp chairs out to roadway, so we could verify the movement. When it all stopped, the guy ran over to put a measurement to it.... and damn if it didn't start all over again..... LOL We finally got bored and went back to campfire....
Looks like you have a nice set up. We pull a 35' Arctic Fox 5er and in my experience, the "rock and roll" issue is fundamentally an issue addressed by the landing jacks. If the jacks are really snug, then the frame supporting the trailer (where the jacks are attached) is secure. Consequently, there is minimal support offered by the axel/springs (where the rock and roll comes from)since youhave taken the weight off the axel/springs. I usually put the front landing gear down so the nose is a bit lower than level, then snug the rear landing gear down, then bring the front back up to desired level so that the coach is resting primarily on the four landing jacks and very little on the wheels/springs. Hope that helps
If the trailer is swaying, mom and dad are playin' !
On a side note, prior to having 6 hydraulic landing gear on our new rig (eliminates any need for anything now) we would put our front landing gear down, level trailer.
Then crank the rear stabs out firm. Then attached the king pin stab and tightened it by turning the handles.
Followed by X-chocks.
It was nice and stable, but still not as stable as our new Solitude.
If this rigs a rockin, don't come a knockin!
I installed 2 sets of these on our toy hauler we use to have. They helped a ton and were cheap. Although, the real answer is auto leveling which is what we have now on our Pinnacle.