Front Clip Removal
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
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From: Ohio
Front Clip Removal
Well I need to yank the motor again and have it rebuilt. This time I will be doing it outside in the driveway so I'll be needing to remove the front clip to access the motor easier for removal. Does anyone have a step by step instruction on how to do this or does it matter? Just need to take off enough to pick up the motor out of the perches and pull it back out. Thanks!
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
I can't remember every bolt, but here goes. Remove or disconnect all electrical on the aprons. Don't forget starter cable, negative battery cable attached to block, lights, ICM, starter solenoid, voltage regulator. Remove the battery. Remove the hood, or you can leave it on. I'd remove it. Detach radiator hoses from engine. Remove the two body mount bolts up front under the core support. Remove the apron bolts (3 on each side). Now you gotta look for bolts. One is inside the door jams. One is under the truck just forward of the doors. And there should be rubber straps attached to firewall. Remove those bolts. There should be a ground strap from hood to firewall. I can't remember if there's another ground strap from fender/apron to firewall. I may be missing a couple, but you'll see them when you try to move the clip. The aprons, core support, radiator, grille, and fenders come off as a unit. Two men can lift it. And it'll be easier to pull the clip if your tires are Off.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
I can't remember every bolt, but here goes. Remove or disconnect all electrical on the aprons. Don't forget starter cable, negative battery cable attached to block, lights, ICM, starter solenoid, voltage regulator. Remove the battery. Remove the hood, or you can leave it on. I'd remove it. Detach radiator hoses from engine. Remove the two body mount bolts up front under the core support. Remove the apron bolts (3 on each side). Now you gotta look for bolts. One is inside the door jams. One is under the truck just forward of the doors. And there should be rubber straps attached to firewall. Remove those bolts. There should be a ground strap from hood to firewall. I can't remember if there's another ground strap from fender/apron to firewall. I may be missing a couple, but you'll see them when you try to move the clip. The aprons, core support, radiator, grille, and fenders come off as a unit. Two men can lift it. And it'll be easier to pull the clip if your tires are Off.
Brake lines should be removed because those pesky inner fenders are bloody sharp! My helper never paid attention, and he sliced open the brake line by dragging the front clip along the frame...
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Didn't remove them when pulling the front clip one time.... regretted it dearly.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
Ouch. Bend something? On reflection, I think you're right. A little extra work up front tends to make life easier during the job. True with most things in life.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,186
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
ALWAYS ALIGN THE BODY PANELS! before you remove them. A shapie mark on the underside of the hood where the hoonges mount and where the inner fenderwell aprons attach to the firewall. Or drill 1/8-inch alignment holes. For example, this is the cowl to inner fender bracket and it is adjustable vertically and horizontally. Therefore two holes are required. The same applies to the hood hinges. Insert the drill bits to index the part and bolt it down... it is EXACTLY where it was before removal.
If you don't like random holes, the hole(s) can be hidden under the washers. I just dab and wipe a lil black RTV to seal it up. Or…………………………
Pulling the hood, scribe or sharpie the hood hinge position (all the way around) on the underside of the hood. Pulling the doors, scribe or sharpie the hinge placement on the cab, leave the hinges on the doors.
Front clip removal 101: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14696880&postcount=26
Radiator bushings. D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) -Lowerradiator support andlowerfront & rear cab mounts / Obsolete
CARPENTERNOS OBSOLETEPARTS in Concord NC = 800-476-9653.
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX = 888-727-0418.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
D3TZ-1000396-C.. Absorber (rubber cushion) -Upperradiator support andupperfront and rear cab mounts / Obsolete
PARTS INTERNATIONAL
CARPENTERNOS OBSOLETEPARTS
GREEN SALES CO.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS
Scroll a bit to see a bushing diagram. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696850
Also a great time to replace the steering box all together or at least the in put/ out put seals...
If you don't like random holes, the hole(s) can be hidden under the washers. I just dab and wipe a lil black RTV to seal it up. Or…………………………
Pulling the hood, scribe or sharpie the hood hinge position (all the way around) on the underside of the hood. Pulling the doors, scribe or sharpie the hinge placement on the cab, leave the hinges on the doors.
Front clip removal 101: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14696880&postcount=26
Radiator bushings. D3TZ-1000155-B.. Absorber (rubber cushion) -Lowerradiator support andlowerfront & rear cab mounts / Obsolete
CARPENTERNOS OBSOLETEPARTS in Concord NC = 800-476-9653.
PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX = 888-727-0418.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH = 800-543-4959.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY = 606-787-5293.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
D3TZ-1000396-C.. Absorber (rubber cushion) -Upperradiator support andupperfront and rear cab mounts / Obsolete
PARTS INTERNATIONAL
CARPENTERNOS OBSOLETEPARTS
GREEN SALES CO.
WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS
Scroll a bit to see a bushing diagram. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696850
Also a great time to replace the steering box all together or at least the in put/ out put seals...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
??? If you're referring to Rich's post above yours, you couldn't be more wrong.
Aligning body panels is a giant pain, but can be avoided with a tiny bit of extra work. I side with Rich and his ideas, as they've allowed me to realign my hood in a matter of seconds instead of hours. All it took was 2 x 1/8" holes.
Aligning body panels is a giant pain, but can be avoided with a tiny bit of extra work. I side with Rich and his ideas, as they've allowed me to realign my hood in a matter of seconds instead of hours. All it took was 2 x 1/8" holes.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Okay, thanks for all the info guys! I will actually be using new fenders and a hood so I'm not worried about the alignment for those, but I'll still mark some things that will be going back in the same place. Unfortunately, looks like a bearing is bad because I have little gold flakes in the oil and the oil pressure dropped 15psi after I went 4wheeling sunday. Not sure if it's because the builder used a high volume oil pump or not, but it will be going to a different shop this time.
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