How to pull out Powerstroke?
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 454
Likes: 3
From: urbana il
How to pull out Powerstroke?
My truck need a new engine . How to pull it out of the engine compartment .
Do I need remove the front of the truck?
can I leave the transmission on place?
thanks for advance
Do I need remove the front of the truck?
can I leave the transmission on place?
thanks for advance
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: TN
6 spd or auto?
Remove entire front grill and header panel and bumper. Looks daunting but quite easy accually. Remove the IC and radiator. If you are cheap like me and dont want to break the lines loose on the AC then take the ac pump and condensor loose, put a towel or fender cover over the pass. side fender then carefully take the condensor and twist it over the fender and let it hang there, the pump will have to sit on the inner fender. Just be carefull not to twist or bend teh lines, if they bend they are broke.
Now take turbo off and y pipe. From underneath pull the starter, 4 large motor mount nuts and 6 transmission bolts out (if auto take flexplate nuts off).
Make sure you have unhooked the main harness, any stray gauge wires, grounds and the two front main grounds. Two fuel lines on the driver side of the engine must come loose, you will need a quick connect tool to remove them and can be a pita.
That should be it, first timer allow about 10-14hrs to pull it. We can r&r them in about 10 hrs.
Remove entire front grill and header panel and bumper. Looks daunting but quite easy accually. Remove the IC and radiator. If you are cheap like me and dont want to break the lines loose on the AC then take the ac pump and condensor loose, put a towel or fender cover over the pass. side fender then carefully take the condensor and twist it over the fender and let it hang there, the pump will have to sit on the inner fender. Just be carefull not to twist or bend teh lines, if they bend they are broke.
Now take turbo off and y pipe. From underneath pull the starter, 4 large motor mount nuts and 6 transmission bolts out (if auto take flexplate nuts off).
Make sure you have unhooked the main harness, any stray gauge wires, grounds and the two front main grounds. Two fuel lines on the driver side of the engine must come loose, you will need a quick connect tool to remove them and can be a pita.
That should be it, first timer allow about 10-14hrs to pull it. We can r&r them in about 10 hrs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by beansdiesel
6 spd or auto?
Remove entire front grill and header panel and bumper. Looks daunting but quite easy accually. Remove the IC and radiator. If you are cheap like me and dont want to break the lines loose on the AC then take the ac pump and condensor loose, put a towel or fender cover over the pass. side fender then carefully take the condensor and twist it over the fender and let it hang there, the pump will have to sit on the inner fender. Just be carefull not to twist or bend teh lines, if they bend they are broke.
Now take turbo off and y pipe. From underneath pull the starter, 4 large motor mount nuts and 6 transmission bolts out (if auto take flexplate nuts off).
Make sure you have unhooked the main harness, any stray gauge wires, grounds and the two front main grounds. Two fuel lines on the driver side of the engine must come loose, you will need a quick connect tool to remove them and can be a pita.
That should be it, first timer allow about 10-14hrs to pull it. We can r&r them in about 10 hrs.
Remove entire front grill and header panel and bumper. Looks daunting but quite easy accually. Remove the IC and radiator. If you are cheap like me and dont want to break the lines loose on the AC then take the ac pump and condensor loose, put a towel or fender cover over the pass. side fender then carefully take the condensor and twist it over the fender and let it hang there, the pump will have to sit on the inner fender. Just be carefull not to twist or bend teh lines, if they bend they are broke.
Now take turbo off and y pipe. From underneath pull the starter, 4 large motor mount nuts and 6 transmission bolts out (if auto take flexplate nuts off).
Make sure you have unhooked the main harness, any stray gauge wires, grounds and the two front main grounds. Two fuel lines on the driver side of the engine must come loose, you will need a quick connect tool to remove them and can be a pita.
That should be it, first timer allow about 10-14hrs to pull it. We can r&r them in about 10 hrs.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
From: New York
Man, not sure if I am qualified to give advice on pulling the PSD or not, but I'll give it a shot
. First, you do not need to lift the cab. But you do need to remove the nose. Start by draining your coolant and disconnecting both batteries, ground first. Then -Bumper(4 bolts, 17mm), grill, headlights, header panel, and A/C Evap. Remove both I/C pipes. You will notice that the cross beam that the hood latch and I/C is bolted to is removable. I believe 4 15mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts per side. Then with a little finesse, that crossbeam and I/C will come out together. Oh yeah, remove the radiator/jackhandle brackets first. Eventually, you will have a huge Hole where the front of your truck use to be.
Next remove the fan. This will take a 1-1/2" wrench, or a big crescent. Use a 10" pipe wrench on the water pump pulley to hold it while you brake loose the fan. It does come off in a normal lefty loosey fashion. Remove Intake plumbing, intake spider and turbo. Usually you want to make sure to plug the holes going to each head to prevent debris from getting in there. Remove A/C compressor and set it aside, maybe zip tying it to prevent it from slipping a little later. Undo your P/S hoses. There are 3 hoses, don't miss the one on the bottom. Buy a special fuel line removal tool so you can disconnect the fuel lines on the drivers side. On to the bottom. Remove the inspection cover on the Trans and remove the 6 T/C nuts, 13mm I think. Remove the 4 bottommost trans to engine bolts(3/4 or 19mm) then support trans with a jack. remove the two remaining top tranny bolts. This can be done from the topside as well with the turbo out of the way, but is not bad from the bottom, at least with a stock DP. While you are downthere, you will need to remove the Oil filter to clear the crossmember when coming out. The orange block heater cable simply unplugs. Remove the 4 engine mount nuts(7/8).
At this point you should be pretty well ready to go. When you hook the engine hoist up, make sure you get as tight of a pick as possible. The engine will just barely squeeze out. On initial jacking, shake the motor a bit to free it from the trans. Once you have it part way out, stop and inspect for anything still connected. There is a ground cord on the back of the passenger side head. Don't miss that!!.
Sorry for the rushed description, but I got to run off to work. Make sure you replace your up-pipes with a bellows style, replace the T/C with a good unit from John woods or PI. and Remove and inspect the flywheel if it is a manual. Good luck!!
. First, you do not need to lift the cab. But you do need to remove the nose. Start by draining your coolant and disconnecting both batteries, ground first. Then -Bumper(4 bolts, 17mm), grill, headlights, header panel, and A/C Evap. Remove both I/C pipes. You will notice that the cross beam that the hood latch and I/C is bolted to is removable. I believe 4 15mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts per side. Then with a little finesse, that crossbeam and I/C will come out together. Oh yeah, remove the radiator/jackhandle brackets first. Eventually, you will have a huge Hole where the front of your truck use to be. Next remove the fan. This will take a 1-1/2" wrench, or a big crescent. Use a 10" pipe wrench on the water pump pulley to hold it while you brake loose the fan. It does come off in a normal lefty loosey fashion. Remove Intake plumbing, intake spider and turbo. Usually you want to make sure to plug the holes going to each head to prevent debris from getting in there. Remove A/C compressor and set it aside, maybe zip tying it to prevent it from slipping a little later. Undo your P/S hoses. There are 3 hoses, don't miss the one on the bottom. Buy a special fuel line removal tool so you can disconnect the fuel lines on the drivers side. On to the bottom. Remove the inspection cover on the Trans and remove the 6 T/C nuts, 13mm I think. Remove the 4 bottommost trans to engine bolts(3/4 or 19mm) then support trans with a jack. remove the two remaining top tranny bolts. This can be done from the topside as well with the turbo out of the way, but is not bad from the bottom, at least with a stock DP. While you are downthere, you will need to remove the Oil filter to clear the crossmember when coming out. The orange block heater cable simply unplugs. Remove the 4 engine mount nuts(7/8).
At this point you should be pretty well ready to go. When you hook the engine hoist up, make sure you get as tight of a pick as possible. The engine will just barely squeeze out. On initial jacking, shake the motor a bit to free it from the trans. Once you have it part way out, stop and inspect for anything still connected. There is a ground cord on the back of the passenger side head. Don't miss that!!.
Sorry for the rushed description, but I got to run off to work. Make sure you replace your up-pipes with a bellows style, replace the T/C with a good unit from John woods or PI. and Remove and inspect the flywheel if it is a manual. Good luck!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by FN74
Man, not sure if I am qualified to give advice on pulling the PSD or not, but I'll give it a shot. First, you do not need to lift the cab. But you do need to remove the nose. Start by draining your coolant and disconnecting both batteries, ground first. Then -Bumper(4 bolts, 17mm), grill, headlights, header panel, and A/C Evap. Remove both I/C pipes. You will notice that the cross beam that the hood latch and I/C is bolted to is removable. I believe 4 15mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts per side. Then with a little finesse, that crossbeam and I/C will come out together. Oh yeah, remove the radiator/jackhandle brackets first. Eventually, you will have a huge Hole where the front of your truck use to be.
Next remove the fan. This will take a 1-1/2" wrench, or a big crescent. Use a 10" pipe wrench on the water pump pulley to hold it while you brake loose the fan. It does come off in a normal lefty loosey fashion. Remove Intake plumbing, intake spider and turbo. Usually you want to make sure to plug the holes going to each head to prevent debris from getting in there. Remove A/C compressor and set it aside, maybe zip tying it to prevent it from slipping a little later. Undo your P/S hoses. There are 3 hoses, don't miss the one on the bottom. Buy a special fuel line removal tool so you can disconnect the fuel lines on the drivers side. On to the bottom. Remove the inspection cover on the Trans and remove the 6 T/C nuts, 13mm I think. Remove the 4 bottommost trans to engine bolts(3/4 or 19mm) then support trans with a jack. remove the two remaining top tranny bolts. This can be done from the topside as well with the turbo out of the way, but is not bad from the bottom, at least with a stock DP. While you are downthere, you will need to remove the Oil filter to clear the crossmember when coming out. The orange block heater cable simply unplugs. Remove the 4 engine mount nuts(7/8).
At this point you should be pretty well ready to go. When you hook the engine hoist up, make sure you get as tight of a pick as possible. The engine will just barely squeeze out. On initial jacking, shake the motor a bit to free it from the trans. Once you have it part way out, stop and inspect for anything still connected. There is a ground cord on the back of the passenger side head. Don't miss that!!.
Sorry for the rushed description, but I got to run off to work. Make sure you replace your up-pipes with a bellows style, replace the T/C with a good unit from John woods or PI. and Remove and inspect the flywheel if it is a manual. Good luck!!
. First, you do not need to lift the cab. But you do need to remove the nose. Start by draining your coolant and disconnecting both batteries, ground first. Then -Bumper(4 bolts, 17mm), grill, headlights, header panel, and A/C Evap. Remove both I/C pipes. You will notice that the cross beam that the hood latch and I/C is bolted to is removable. I believe 4 15mm bolts and 2 8mm bolts per side. Then with a little finesse, that crossbeam and I/C will come out together. Oh yeah, remove the radiator/jackhandle brackets first. Eventually, you will have a huge Hole where the front of your truck use to be. Next remove the fan. This will take a 1-1/2" wrench, or a big crescent. Use a 10" pipe wrench on the water pump pulley to hold it while you brake loose the fan. It does come off in a normal lefty loosey fashion. Remove Intake plumbing, intake spider and turbo. Usually you want to make sure to plug the holes going to each head to prevent debris from getting in there. Remove A/C compressor and set it aside, maybe zip tying it to prevent it from slipping a little later. Undo your P/S hoses. There are 3 hoses, don't miss the one on the bottom. Buy a special fuel line removal tool so you can disconnect the fuel lines on the drivers side. On to the bottom. Remove the inspection cover on the Trans and remove the 6 T/C nuts, 13mm I think. Remove the 4 bottommost trans to engine bolts(3/4 or 19mm) then support trans with a jack. remove the two remaining top tranny bolts. This can be done from the topside as well with the turbo out of the way, but is not bad from the bottom, at least with a stock DP. While you are downthere, you will need to remove the Oil filter to clear the crossmember when coming out. The orange block heater cable simply unplugs. Remove the 4 engine mount nuts(7/8).
At this point you should be pretty well ready to go. When you hook the engine hoist up, make sure you get as tight of a pick as possible. The engine will just barely squeeze out. On initial jacking, shake the motor a bit to free it from the trans. Once you have it part way out, stop and inspect for anything still connected. There is a ground cord on the back of the passenger side head. Don't miss that!!.
Sorry for the rushed description, but I got to run off to work. Make sure you replace your up-pipes with a bellows style, replace the T/C with a good unit from John woods or PI. and Remove and inspect the flywheel if it is a manual. Good luck!!
not bad for a beginner...
should put this in the mods link
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by FN74
Man, not sure if I am qualified to give advice on pulling the PSD or not, but I'll give it a shot.
.whover does not get the humor in that, Jason pulled his motor like 4 times in 3 days on the side of the road with a leatherman tool, 3 snow skis and a leather belt for an engine hoist, in the snow uphill both ways to and from school(oops sorry got carried away the kids are near)
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