Alternator question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 196
Likes: 5
Alternator question
My alternator crapped out today, and while checking prices for a new one, I noticed some are for an ambulance package and some are not. They both say 110 amps, so what's the difference?
My truck is not ambulance equipped that I know of, but would it make a difference if that's what I installed?
One more question... is the alternator the same for automatic and manual transmissions? I ask because I have a focus with a manual and the alternators are different.
My truck is not ambulance equipped that I know of, but would it make a difference if that's what I installed?
One more question... is the alternator the same for automatic and manual transmissions? I ask because I have a focus with a manual and the alternators are different.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
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From: Central Coast of CA
I think the ambulance alternator is for the second position alternator on our trucks. But someone else with better, precise knowledge will have to confirm if this is correct.
Stewart
Stewart
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Ambulances run dual alternators. Same amperage, but they have two of them. It was possible to order a regular truck with a dual alternator set up as well.
The 6.0 has a higher amp alternator. I got a new one (not reman) from Oreilly's in 2012. It's still going strong. You need to clock the case and trim the bracket or shim the alternator with a couple of washers, but that's pretty easy.
Here's the thread from way back when. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html
The 6.0 has a higher amp alternator. I got a new one (not reman) from Oreilly's in 2012. It's still going strong. You need to clock the case and trim the bracket or shim the alternator with a couple of washers, but that's pretty easy.
Here's the thread from way back when. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Ambulances run dual alternators. Same amperage, but they have two of them. It was possible to order a regular truck with a dual alternator set up as well.
The 6.0 has a higher amp alternator. I got a new one (not reman) from Oreilly's in 2012. It's still going strong. You need to clock the case and trim the bracket or shim the alternator with a couple of washers, but that's pretty easy.
Here's the thread from way back when. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html
The 6.0 has a higher amp alternator. I got a new one (not reman) from Oreilly's in 2012. It's still going strong. You need to clock the case and trim the bracket or shim the alternator with a couple of washers, but that's pretty easy.
Here's the thread from way back when. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lternator.html
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,374
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From: Palm Bay, Florida
Have a KNOWN original rebuilt by a reputable, local, home town type auto electric shop. I had mine done about 4 years ago, it was done in 4 hours, and cost $5.00 LESS than any POS NEW or rebuilt Chinese unit purchased at the local chain stores....
I have an absolutely GREAT shop near me that will have no problem in rebuilding units that are sent to them, they have quick turnaround.....
I'll be glad to share the info if anyone needs or wants it.....
I have an absolutely GREAT shop near me that will have no problem in rebuilding units that are sent to them, they have quick turnaround.....
I'll be glad to share the info if anyone needs or wants it.....
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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same company that builds/mods Duramax motors? So thats where they moved. They were here in placentia up til last month
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 305
Likes: 14
I used to be the quality control inspector over an alternator line back in the early 80s. I've not rebuilt one in ages but if they are the same design today as back then you will need a bad%$$ soldering gun to replace the rectifier set or stator. The solder used is very high temp. Possibly get by using a torch to heat up a solder iron tip, larger the tip the more heat it will hold - don't use one that's huge though.
Anybody remotely mechanically minded could repair one. A press will be required if you change bearings. Be careful with the windings and not move them any more than needed, the insulation on them is good but can be damaged. If the rotor is open you may be out of luck. That's kinda rare though. Do you know which part is bad?
Anybody remotely mechanically minded could repair one. A press will be required if you change bearings. Be careful with the windings and not move them any more than needed, the insulation on them is good but can be damaged. If the rotor is open you may be out of luck. That's kinda rare though. Do you know which part is bad?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 196
Likes: 5
[QUOTE=axmrdr;18283314]I used to be the quality control inspector over an alternator line back in the early 80s. I've not rebuilt one in ages but if they are the same design today as back then you will need a bad%$$ soldering gun to replace the rectifier set or stator. The solder used is very high temp. Possibly get by using a torch to heat up a solder iron tip, larger the tip the more heat it will hold - don't use one that's huge though.
Anybody remotely mechanically minded could repair one. A press will be required if you change bearings. Be careful with the windings and not move them any more than needed, the insulation on them is good but can be damaged. If the rotor is open you may be out of luck. That's kinda rare though. Do you know which part is bad?
I have a standard soldering iron (pencil) but I doubt it's as hot as it needs to be. I don't have a press either, so I'm back to considering my other options of finding a shop to rebuild this one, or buying one from one of the usual chain stores.
I have no idea what specifically is bad in my current alternator. It's not charging at all, and if I run any accessories, it kills the batteries quickly.
Anybody remotely mechanically minded could repair one. A press will be required if you change bearings. Be careful with the windings and not move them any more than needed, the insulation on them is good but can be damaged. If the rotor is open you may be out of luck. That's kinda rare though. Do you know which part is bad?
I have a standard soldering iron (pencil) but I doubt it's as hot as it needs to be. I don't have a press either, so I'm back to considering my other options of finding a shop to rebuild this one, or buying one from one of the usual chain stores.
I have no idea what specifically is bad in my current alternator. It's not charging at all, and if I run any accessories, it kills the batteries quickly.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 305
Likes: 14
Depending on the age of the alternator, ...... bearings last for a long time. Once removed you can spin the rotor and feel the condition of the bearings.
Do you have an ohmmeter? I can explain how to check some things but I'm at work so it would be a while. You'd probably be better off Youtubing for a visual aid on what to do. My work firewall blocks youtube or I'd find you a link. Sorry.
Do you have an ohmmeter? I can explain how to check some things but I'm at work so it would be a while. You'd probably be better off Youtubing for a visual aid on what to do. My work firewall blocks youtube or I'd find you a link. Sorry.