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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 04:46 PM
  #31  
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Lol, apparently friends are more than willing to spend your money AND time
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 05:51 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Sous, you and axmrdr are both fart smellers...
yo sous, post up or link that "bridge" for the positvie side of alternator you used, will ya? I have same cable i wouldnt mind mimicking yours/Y2 idear'er..
Here you go, this and 2x 175 amp fuses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002INJXO6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 09:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Supercab
No offense but why would you buy a new or rebuilt unit and have to clock it? makes no sense.....

No offense taken, but I bought a 6.0 alternator which has to be clocked for everything to line up right.

There's a link posted above to the upgrade.

BTW, to all who have inquired it was a successful install and works great. The original 110 wasn't quite enough, and one issue it had before is no longer. The issue in mention was my check engine light would come on if I went over 2500 rpm's and wouldn't pull any more. Now it keeps on pulling throug without an issue. More power in general too!
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 12:12 PM
  #34  
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Is there a way of checking to see if you are putting too much draw on an alternator? It would be nice to check if indeed a bigger alternator would be necessary. It would be good to know as electrical demands are increased too, to be able to recheck on occasion.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 12:29 PM
  #35  
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Josh, a clamp-on ammeter will show the draw on the alternator in real time as you add or reduce load.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 12:45 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
A third difference is:

3. The B+ post in the lower ambulance alternator has a stand off extension which changes how the output wire is oriented when connected.
Forgot about that point. Thanks for the backup.

Originally Posted by Sous
This is a little off topic, but when getting a higher amperage alternator it is strongly advised to not only check the OEM positive and negative cables to and from the batteries and alternator for quality. Also, increase the number of wires by a few different means.
One of the reasons I stayed closer to OEM ratings was to avoid upgrading the cables/connections at the same time. It was enough man-hours and cost just replace the units that failed.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 12:50 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Silverhks
Lol, apparently friends are more than willing to spend your money AND time
It was meant as a joke more then anything. But for guys like me, not good at all in electronics, I would gladly pay for the set up. It's one of the nicest I've seen on here and I've been here a while. God bless,

Chet
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 06:39 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
It was meant as a joke more then anything. But for guys like me, not good at all in electronics, I would gladly pay for the set up. It's one of the nicest I've seen on here and I've been here a while. God bless,

Chet
​​​​​​I took it as a joke, as was my reply. I hope both you and Sous understand that now.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 06:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Silverhks
​​​​​​I took it as a joke, as was my reply. I hope both you and Sous understand that now.
I'm good, I told my wife that my FTE family loves to spend my money the other day.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 08:56 PM
  #40  
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When I came up with the idea to use a double stud Buss MRBF holder to make it easer to add more cables to the alternator without altering the factory B+ cable and boot, it never occurred to me to make and sell kits. I only took and shared photos, which Sous asked me for. Chet, are you saying that I missed another gravy train? Or was it a gravy Buss?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 09:23 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I'm good, I told my wife that my FTE family loves to spend my money the other day.
Yeah, well you’re pretty good at spending our money too.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 12:18 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
When I came up with the idea to use a double stud Buss MRBF holder to make it easer to add more cables to the alternator without altering the factory B+ cable and boot, it never occurred to me to make and sell kits. I only took and shared photos, which Sous asked me for. Chet, are you saying that I missed another gravy train? Or was it a gravy Buss?
It would of been a good idea for sure. No problems guys, I just didn't want any buddy to get the wrong idea. And it is a great set up. I lost an alternator years back on the way to county western show. Never new it was bad till the air went off and on then the windows wouldn't go up. I got no light and I wasn't watching the gauge that close. It shows voltage in the system I found out. Mine a E99. Charged the Interstate batteries three time to get where I needed to get the next morning and it died in the parking lot at Ford. Changed the alternator and ran those batteries three more years before they went out. Never had a problem since. But now I got a new to me 5 wheel and I'm thinking of up dating. Kind of hard when every thing is till good. Anyway, back on subject.
 
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