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The "ambulance package" comes with a dual alternator setup. My truck specifically states that it is NOT an ambulance prep package but I do have dual alternators so I don't know what else is in that "package" that I don't have.
The lower alternator is the same unit but the back is clocked differently for the connections (it's 90 degrees off from the upper alternator IIRC). Other than that it is the same unit. The OEM setup has a slightly larger pulley wheel I think.
I visited several shops in my area but was dissatisfied with the price or the shop for each one I visited. I ended up upgrading to the larger 6G case alternators from here: https://alternatorparts.com/6g-serie...lternator.html
I only went with the 140 Amp units as I have two of them so I've got plenty of juice. I used to run mid- to low-13 VDC on a hot day now I'm at 13.9-14.0 VDC on a hot day.
Went this morning after work to O'Reilly's and picked up a 135 amp alternator. I wanted a 140, but it was a special order and I didn't want to wait. I'll clock it this evening and do the install. Wish me luck!
while checking prices for a new one, I noticed some are for an ambulance package and some are not. They both say 110 amps, so what's the difference?
My truck is not ambulance equipped that I know of, but would it make a difference if that's what I installed?
The key differences have already been identified by Brian42, those being, the lower 110a alternator in the ambulance package is
1. Clocked differently where the rear frame/case mates to the front frame/case
2. Has a different drive ratio (a different size pulley).
A third difference is:
3. The B+ post in the lower ambulance alternator has a stand off extension which changes how the output wire is oriented when connected.
Since the post extension can be removed, the pulley can be swapped for the original, and the alternator case can be unbolted and the two halves rotated relative to each other to reclock it, essentially it doesn't matter whether or not you get the ambulance alternator or not... as long as you know to take care of these three things prior to installing a lower alternator into the top alternator position.
This is a little off topic, but when getting a higher amperage alternator it is strongly advised to not only check the OEM positive and negative cables to and from the batteries and alternator for quality. Also, increase the number of wires by a few different means.
In the thread linked below, I did just this to ensure that the OEM harness was not being over stressed and that the batteries and 12v systems received the power they demanded.
In this picture, you can see the 2 positive cables I installed on the alternator with the help of a dual fuse and a post that raised the connection above the case. There is also a negative wire that runs from the alternator case to the driver side battery. Many more pictures and details in the thread I linked that should be considered when upgrading to a higher amperage alternator.
You're right, the number 2 size wire on the alternator is good for up to 130 amps. Although the alternator shouldn't be taxed for too long at that level under most conditions.
Faster recharge of batteries (too many short trips with restarts of engine) is the main benefit most of us would get from a larger alternators. Those that use winches or other really large electrical loads would benefit, but that doesn't sound like what most of us have. I guess what I'm saying is that most of us don't need a larger alternator than what comes in it ....... but then we don't need larger injectors, tires or stereos either and we all see how that works out
I installed a larger amperage alternator only because of the auxiliary equipment I have installed which include but is not limited to...
Air Lift 5000 on board compressor
Rear view camera
Auxiliary diesel fuel tank pump and gauges
3 pillar gauges
High output headlight bulbs with separate relays/harnesses
5th wheel trailer with 550 amp hours battery bank
Whatever else I forgot
I replaced the alternator the same time as the batteries and starter and wanted to make sure I was getting everything out of the alternator that I paid for. A few dollars in wire and connectors and it is good to go.
Please don't take my post wrong.
I only meant to say that for most of us there is no need for spending the extra dollars on a higher output alternator, the size that came on it is large enough. Just trying to explain this to save folks some money should they need a replacement alternator.
All of us are guilty of going above and beyond when maintaining and upgrading our trucks. It's America, we love our cars, trucks bikes, boats and guns. And we'll bling them out as we see fit.
This would be a boring forum if we didn't upgrade our trucks.
Please don't take my post wrong.
I only meant to say that for most of us there is no need for spending the extra dollars on a higher output alternator, the size that came on it is large enough. Just trying to explain this to save folks some money should they need a replacement alternator.
All of us are guilty of going above and beyond when maintaining and upgrading our trucks. It's America, we love our cars, trucks bikes, boats and guns. And we'll bling them out as we see fit.
This would be a boring forum if we didn't upgrade our trucks.
@axmrdr , I didn't take your post wrong or as a slight at all. You are right, most 7.3 owners do not require the additional charging power or have higher amp draw than what the OEM alternator provides. I on the hand did require more current and that in turn required bigger/more robust wiring.
You are right and I think that our short side conversation has had a "positive" (see what I did there?) effect on the thread as a whole.
Cool, it's difficult to gauge feelings when reading/writing posts. Just wanted to be clear.
I've been a moderator on a Harley forum for years and have seen the simplest things misread or misinterpreted.
On another matter, your engine is ridiculously clean. I could only wish.....
Went this morning after work to O'Reilly's and picked up a 135 amp alternator. I wanted a 140, but it was a special order and I didn't want to wait. I'll clock it this evening and do the install. Wish me luck!
No offense but why would you buy a new or rebuilt unit and have to clock it? makes no sense.....
Sous, you and axmrdr are both fart smellers...
yo sous, post up or link that "bridge" for the positvie side of alternator you used, will ya? I have same cable i wouldnt mind mimicking yours/Y2 idear'er..
