alignment
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Look on Youtube on how to do the alignment at home.
IIRC just a few tools and you can check camber, caster may be a little harder.
Toe is real easy to do with a tape measure, 2 pieces of square wood sticks a little taller that the tire by 6" and a way to hold the sticks to the wheel (bungie cords).
Dave ----
IIRC just a few tools and you can check camber, caster may be a little harder.
Toe is real easy to do with a tape measure, 2 pieces of square wood sticks a little taller that the tire by 6" and a way to hold the sticks to the wheel (bungie cords).
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
If you get the toe close, you can live with the other just to get it to the garage. It may pull to one side or the other if the caster for one side is not the same as the other side, but nothing to worry about for a few trips.
P.S. Here's one video on doing a home toe alignment with strings. I watch this guy all the time, I don't think there is anything he doesn't know something about.
P.S. Here's one video on doing a home toe alignment with strings. I watch this guy all the time, I don't think there is anything he doesn't know something about.
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Ok, I used dial caliper on original intact suspension tie rod rack, as I’d replaced with all new. I matched threaded portions inner and outer, old (that drove straight) to new. Drives much better. I had one eccentric that remained fixed from rust, while the other fell and that’s how this mess started.
how about since I have no reference point, I should try to remove and turn the lost eccentric to match exactly how the old rusted one is turned. Is that how they normally set a pair of eccentrics, the same way on both sides, unless there is some frame issue or something? I really believe I can remove the cotter and nut and work that thing around with brute force and maybe slightly pushing out ball joint with rental tool program with local box auto store ball joint press.
the eccentrics or bushings whatever they’re called, they do have a line in them I could use as a reference point to mirror left to right on eccentric washer bushing deal. If I can turn it without pushing out entire upper ball joint. That really would be the suck part of this.
how about since I have no reference point, I should try to remove and turn the lost eccentric to match exactly how the old rusted one is turned. Is that how they normally set a pair of eccentrics, the same way on both sides, unless there is some frame issue or something? I really believe I can remove the cotter and nut and work that thing around with brute force and maybe slightly pushing out ball joint with rental tool program with local box auto store ball joint press.
the eccentrics or bushings whatever they’re called, they do have a line in them I could use as a reference point to mirror left to right on eccentric washer bushing deal. If I can turn it without pushing out entire upper ball joint. That really would be the suck part of this.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,876
Likes: 4,115
From: Angier, NC
As for setting them both the same may be a good starting point but the shop would not set it that way going out the door.
The rack tells you what each wheel is at and the spec book tells you where it needs to be out the door.
When adjusting to spec they both may line up the same but that is not what they ate after.
Dave - - - -
The rack tells you what each wheel is at and the spec book tells you where it needs to be out the door.
When adjusting to spec they both may line up the same but that is not what they ate after.
Dave - - - -
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,977
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From: Virginia
I will warn you, you can't go by the threads on the tie rods. I have tried that myself, China is not very good on their castings and machine work, you can't depend on the tie rods, inner or outer, to be the same from manufacturer to manufacturer.
There is a way though: Measure from grease fitting to grease fitting. Most of the factory joints don't have a grease fitting, so you have to eyeball the center of the round part where the grease fitting would be located. That is the best way to get it back in by measuring..
There is a way though: Measure from grease fitting to grease fitting. Most of the factory joints don't have a grease fitting, so you have to eyeball the center of the round part where the grease fitting would be located. That is the best way to get it back in by measuring..
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Thank you Dave, I’ll try to measure them that way also. I’ll use a paint marker on the old ones so I can see center better, even if I’m only off 1/4”, won’t bother me to drop a tie rod and make the adjustment.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,876
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From: Angier, NC
The ends are left & right threads as is the sleeve so all you need to do is turn the sleeve.
If the steering wheel is straight and the tires pointing forward and following the Youtube above you should be able to set toe and be even on each side.
If you find once on the road the wheel is not centered you will need to adjust the sleeves, 1 goes longer the other shorter and same amount to keep toe right, to bring the wheel to center.
Dave ----
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Wow I keep trying to post and respond and runnng out of time, Thank you all, was off 1/2” driver side, squared away now. Drives great steering wheel is level, I’m happy and it’s the weekend!!!
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Good to hear it turned out good.
I have kingpins so the only thing I can really adjust is toe.
If anything else is off you have to bend the beams and I don't know if any one now days even knows how to do that.
Heck back in the day the racks did not have computers it was done with scales & mirrors so you needed to know what you were doing and how it all worked together when making adjustments.
When I get my truck on the road and get new tires I will throw it on the rack just so I know where every thing is at.
I will set toe in my garage as every thing was apart, should be fun to see how close I get when it is checked.
Dave ----
I have kingpins so the only thing I can really adjust is toe.
If anything else is off you have to bend the beams and I don't know if any one now days even knows how to do that.
Heck back in the day the racks did not have computers it was done with scales & mirrors so you needed to know what you were doing and how it all worked together when making adjustments.
When I get my truck on the road and get new tires I will throw it on the rack just so I know where every thing is at.
I will set toe in my garage as every thing was apart, should be fun to see how close I get when it is checked.
Dave ----
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I’ve beat out 2 sets of kingpins in my life, and that was 3 too many. I wanted to prove it to myself I guess, as I should have just taken the forged I beams to a machine shop for pressing. I wore out a 4 pound hammer and brass chisel/punch set.
that was 15 years ago, I wouldn’t even try beating them out now. I’d certainly man up and spend some cash on big boy torch rig. The little bottle rigs were no help on kingpins. And I never could find anyone who could press the forged ibeams either
that was 15 years ago, I wouldn’t even try beating them out now. I’d certainly man up and spend some cash on big boy torch rig. The little bottle rigs were no help on kingpins. And I never could find anyone who could press the forged ibeams either
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